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60-P high tech, 45-P low tech
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I'm contemplating a low profile shade for my Chihiros WRGB2 (Their stock one seems bulky but I may give up and get it), I remembered I had made one for my ONF Flat nano+ that worked really well, fit it's aesthetic, and was essentially free. I thought I would share it if glare is annoying for anyone else. Right now it's sitting in my basement on my 45p, but I will soon bring it back up when I re-scape it.

If your light is black, I found that a black plastic notebook cover, like you would find at Staples, matches the texture and finish of the light quite well. It's also extremely lightweight, flexible, doesn't warp with the heat from the light (with this style design) and can even be trimmed after you install it. Surprisingly, it doesn't look cheap in person. I initially had a taller lip on the shade, but ended up trimming it as short as possible so it looked barely visible while still blocking the LED's from view. This has been in use for a year now without any problems, and the frame has had no damage (apply tape at your own risk). Even though the shade isn't angled out, the low profile of it doesn't block the spread of light in the tank. My first design was an angled one, so I was able to test this out and they had the same light effect.

I first measured the light and made a to-scale drawing of it on a computer, then drew some silhouettes to get an idea of what a shade could look like. Be sure to consider any indicator lights on the body, unless you intentionally want to block them. Then print at scale, and tape it onto the plastic sheet as a cutting stencil. Since these shades are so small, you can try many times without running out of material. At first, I used the same radius that the light had on its corners, but after seeing it in person, I found that a larger corner radius looked better. I cut 3 tabs of 3M re-positionable clear tape (it's about 1mm thick and is almost jelly-like with a mild adhesive and invisible after install), applied it directly to the body of the light, then attached the plastic shade. To be sure your cuts are clean and level, use a nice razor blade and straight edge. The rounded shapes can carefully be cut by hand.

I thought about actually making these out of better material and selling them, but then I figured the market was practically zero, haha. So manufacturers if you're reading this, if I were designing these lights, I would make these shades out of a thin painted aluminum sheet, and have two or three magnetic contact points built into the shade and body of the light, so you could just snap these on and off whenever you you wanted.



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