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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello I have a quick question about the working pressure gauge (second stage) of a dual stage regulator. I bought one where the working pressure gauge goes from 0-200, which unfortunately now I understand is not ideal. Is it possible to still use this by keeping the large dial set to as low as it goes (30ish) and then simply use a good needle valve or will the pressure differential be too much damage the regulator/ needle valve?


edit: this regulator also came with a high pressure swaglok metering valve. I guess the next question is that if it not safe to use a needle valve at say 30-50 psi can I can use the metering valve I already have to drop the pressure and then put another low pressure needle valve after the high pressure metering valve. I would imagine this is all superfluous but I just want to be safe and I have very limited experience.
 

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Interesting, you should be able to adjust your working pressure to say 1-2psi (if you choose to)(my setup used to have a 0-200psi working pressure gauge). Typically when I change tanks, I adjust my working pressure to 0psi (adjustment knob spun counter clockwise all the way).
I am assuming your high pressure gauge is reading somewhere around 900psi?
Do you have a picture of your regulator?
 

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As mentioned, you should be able to adjust your working pressure to some arbitrary low value; the low pressure gauge simply doesn't have the resolution to show anything lower than (say) the 30 PSI that you indicated.

For that matter though, 30 PSI is generally fine as well; for some glass diffusers with ceramic discs, this kind of pressure is required before they will start misting.

If you want to know exactly how much your working pressure is, an alternative is to swap out the low pressure gauge with one that is more resolved.
 

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I bought one where the working pressure gauge goes from 0-200, which unfortunately now I understand is not ideal. Is it possible to still use this by keeping the large dial set to as low as it goes (30ish) and then simply use a good needle valve.....
Something sounds off. You should be able to get the second stage gauge to zero.

Sounds like the gauge is defective and untrustworthy.

And no, metering valves do not control pressure just flow
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you. I did more reading and it looks like most needle valves are safe and function properly below 100 psi, in particular the fabco which I bought says below 100 psi. As far as the pressure gauges working, this is all theoretical, nothing has been set up yet. Right now all of the pressure gauges are at 0 like they should be.

I do plan on using a ceramic diffuser so perhaps having a slightly higher PSI is good.
 

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Fabco is nice but generally considered average over better models of Swaglok.

Just curious as to why the switch?
 

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Since DIY seems okay for you, I suggest going a small step further to get a more useful low pressure gauge as it does what I like and doesn't cost much more.
I think you will find that the reg will work okay but the resolution on the gauge is too course.
That leaves me to change out the low pressure meter to one that reads on the range we use most.
This is one which I find works well for me as I normally only run 20PSI or less so the scale where I can see if I set it to 12 versus 14 is what I want to see.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Winters...4hxiHdeoz-OIS7cShGxoCvj0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

There are several points to mention and keep in mind as not all regs use the same threads, so check, for things like right or left hand threads and size, of course. One of the thing that I like about buying local is that I can actually walk the parts in and see the threads fit without the hassle of shipping on things that don't work.

Second big point is to keep in mind that you can really ruin a 0-60 PSI meter if you put the reg on the tank and open the valve with the reg screwed down to put out 100PSI!
Best practice on regs is to always back the output pressure totally off before putting the reg on the tank, then when ready turn the pressure back up to where you use it. That's where having a meter range which lets you actually read the setting comes in handy.
It takes a lot of guesswork out of restarting after a tank change if you can use the meter.
But there is more hazard if you do it wrong? It may cost you another $10 meter!
 

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It's a tescom dual stage regulator with a clippard solenoid and currently has a swagelok metering valve that I do not plan on using in favor of a Fabco NV-55-18 needle valve.
Did you make purchase of that ebay tescom double stage co2 system for $199?

it will never work, I doubt the seller know what he was doing or test the system before he sold it to you.

Add:
To correct it, need to replace the solenoid assembly.
The regulator is 250 psi max output, you need to find an low power consumption, extremely low flow control and high pressure differential solenoid, such item is rare and expensive.
 
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