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I would say after you flood the tank. Any co2 added while not flooded would decrease the humidity inside the tank. The plants get plenty of co2 on their own.

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A nightster said CO2 after flooding. It actually states that in a few places in the link. The plants will typically get enough CO2 when exposed to the atmosphere. It's when they're submerged that it becomes more of an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm doing the dry start method and was wondering how you know when to change the water once flooded........when there are no fish and just plants in it and until fish go in? Is there anything that will build up with just plants that needs to be diluted and/or removed? Thanks!
 

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I'm doing the dry start method and was wondering how you know when to change the water once flooded........when there are no fish and just plants in it and until fish go in? Is there anything that will build up with just plants that needs to be diluted and/or removed? Thanks!
In high-tech generally you want to remove water on a regular basis not only to remove ferts but also organics. The more light you have the more important this is as light will accelerate algae growth from decomposing matter. You want to be preventive not reactive, so do regular water changes even if things look fine.
 

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I would suggest adding CO2 during the dry start. it will increase the rate of plant growth and you can complete the dry start process in 3 weeks. I use this method. I just leave the diffuser in the tank with no water and supply about 1 BPS. For humidity, you can spray water as needed. You can keep the lights on for 16-18 hours during dry start.

During the initial 2 weeks after flooding use a high amount of Co2 to help plants acclimatize and reduce gradually to normal levels from week 2 to week 3

I use ADA Amazonia substrate.
 
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