The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So far I have a 55Gallon, a 20# CO2 with some generic dual gauge regulator, and bubble counter and solenoid, and a current USA 6x t5 HO. Fluval 403 canister.

What I need to buy are:
3 6700k Coral Life T5HO
5 15.6# bags of fluorite
Inline co2 diffuser. "ATOMIC CO2 DIFFUSER - INLINE -"
Hydor inline 300watt heater.

Does that sound complete? I have been trying to figure out the lighting and seems like people are all over the place 2-3 t5HO's being okay and then others saying 4 is good or 4 is bad. I am also not sure if I should buy T5's or buy those Led lights in t5 tubs?

been collecting things for years it feels to finally get to the home stretch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,428 Posts
From my view, I will never again trust a high power heater not to stick on to kill the fish. I now use a cheap digital temperature controller on all tanks with fish that matter.
Maybe not the answer you were looking for so I might also throw in that you did not list a needle valve. Most will need that to fine tune the flow of CO2?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,011 Posts
The Fluval 403 is an old filter, from what I've read. Boasting a 317 GPH flow rate in it's prime. I suggest adding a secondary filter. When you add media, an inline heater, and inline CO2, you'll lose quite a bit of flow. I try to suggest at least 5x flow rate for a planted tank, more when you use CO2. Possibly consider adding a SunSun 302 or 304 if you are on a budget, or another canister of similar size as the Fluval 403.

Furthermore, I would be tempted to go with a CO2 reactor instead of atomizer for better CO2 use. This is opinionated, but a lot of people really feel strongly about a reactor.

T5s are fine IMO. Fine tuning your light window and CO2 will always be a challenge.

A Finnex aquarium heater controller is a solid investment. Definitely recommended with a Hydor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,653 Posts
I have multiple finnex controllers plus a few home made ones. I have the Max300 and the HC810M. I would recommend the HC810M over the Max-300 as you can run any heater you want with the 810 model. If you are interested in a diy heater controller I have built 2 of them and thats the way I go now as I can also run a cooling system with them as well. Either way you go I agree with the others and recommend a heater controller. If I recall correctly @PlantedRich runs diy controllers too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,428 Posts
This is a link to the post I did about the controllers I use. They are a bit on the cheap side (plastic) and there are a few things to do to get them to the point I feel I can trust them. For some the wiring can be a problem but it can also be really simple. Simple and cheap was what I wanted for several tanks and I also use them for a number of other things around the house. They come in on the auction around $10-15 and with a few parts can run you as high as you feel right but I wanted cheap. I cut an extention cord in half to get the power in as well as the switched power out connections. Making the probe fully waterproof in tubing or a soda straw, has turned them into a very reliable safety on my heating. I've lost three tanks of fish and don't want to ever do that again!!
Waking to the stink of dead fish is about the worst way to start a day that I want!

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...ing-cheap-digital-temperature-controller.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay so I have a 300watt finnex on my other tank backed up by a reef keeper lite. I can put a normal heater in that tank and let the reef keeper br the fail safe. In the canister I am open to buying a new one, ad I have said this has been years in the making for me so do it right. What would be best to get?

Bump: Sorry also I take it that 3 lamps is good enough for a 55 gallon?

I also have a needle valve forgot to day that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
same point of view

From my view, I will never again trust a high power heater not to stick on to kill the fish. I now use a cheap digital temperature controller on all tanks with fish that matter.
Maybe not the answer you were looking for so I might also throw in that you did not list a needle valve. Most will need that to fine tune the flow of CO2?
my point of view is the same online shopping as yours!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
If it was me I would always go with LEDs before bulb lights. The LEDs last forever and bulbs will color out and have to be replaced. They are also starting to limit the florescent bulbs so they are going to be harder to find in the future. Might as well buy your second set of lights first and not spend the money twice.

Depending on the LEDs you get it is easier to control the color spectrum and the brightness. You can also do fade in and fade outs to not scare\shock your fish with a sudden light popping on. Last but not least, LEDs give you that shimmer that everyone wants.


Tim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,129 Posts
If it was me I would always go with LEDs before bulb lights. The LEDs last forever and bulbs will color out and have to be replaced. They are also starting to limit the florescent bulbs so they are going to be harder to find in the future. Might as well buy your second set of lights first and not spend the money twice.

Depending on the LEDs you get it is easier to control the color spectrum and the brightness. You can also do fade in and fade outs to not scare\shock your fish with a sudden light popping on. Last but not least, LEDs give you that shimmer that everyone wants.


Tim

I just subscribed to this thread so I can watch what you've started here.:smile2:
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top