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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Quick note: This tank is cycled for long months now, but I only use for as one of rare strain guppy in it prior.

Tank size: 8gallon
Water use: only use 7 gallon

Before it's 7 gallon of tap water with Prime for guppy. But today, I took out 5-6 gallon of water from the tank.

Then, I filled back with 5-6 gallon of RO water with Salty Shrimp GH+.

Here is my full test:

gH (api liquid drops): 4 to light green
HM Digital TDS meter: 75-77ppm

kH: (api liquid drops): 1 drop to yellow

pH: 6.4

* pH: Does this pH level is ok for this shrimp? or it need to be lower more? if so how? any suggest? I am using ADA Sub for over a year in this tank already.

ammonia: 0 - 0.25 (so hard to tell the yellow between this two)

* As for ammonia, I think because I did a large WC today so it might cause the mini cycle again? I am not sure.


Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

What does everything think? Are those params are good enough? Thanks for help.
 

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Here is some info on necessary parameters.
Dwarf Shrimp Water Parameters ? DiscoBee
Black King Kong Shrimp .:. Caridina cantonensis var. "Black King Kong" .:. Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Species Information Page

Your's seem to fit the requirements (your TDS is slightly under, don't know your temperature), but these are pretty expensive shrimp. I personally would strongly recommend first getting experienced keeping a cheaper Caridina, such as Crystal Red Shrimp before going straight into BB or BKK. They have the same water preferences so care is identical, but this way you see if you really can keep the shrimp healthy or not. And if you don't, which a lot of newbies don't, at least that way you didn't lose as much money. Get low grades culls if you want, just for practice. Once you are able to successfully keep them for at least two months or for some time after they have successfully bred, then you might be more ready to step up to harder to keep shrimp. The more "fancy" the Caridina, the more likely they are more sensitive and so, harder to keep alive and breed.

I suggest joining The Shrimp Spot forum for more experienced and expert help.

By the way, you don't still have the guppies in there do you?
If you do, guppies prefer the opposite water parameters that Caridina shrimp do, so it's best to move the guppies to a harder alkaline water tank.
And the guppies might eat the shrimp.

I definitely wouldn't recommend adding any shrimp (or any fish for that matter) if you are having issues with ammonia.

Shrimp are said to not tolerate larger water changes, best stick to 10%-20% frequent water changes. And when you do them, try to keep parameters stable (meaning pre-mineralize the water and match temp before adding) so there is minimal shock when doing water changes.
As for a large water changing causing a mini-cycle, if done right, it should not, as long as the dechlorinator mixed enough (which should be no problem with R/O water) and the water parameters weren't a drastic sudden change.
 

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as a shrimp keeper blue bolt shadow panda red wine crystal red crystal black, etc

YOU ARE NOT READY.


but if you insist on trying buy "testing shrimps" at your local fish shop. crystal red or something. See how they do in 1 weeks
 

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Thanks @Waterlife.

I used to breed the high grade of PRL, PBL for 2-3 years in past with successful and but after I moved I stopped breed cardin and I only breed the such as PFR (neo type). But now I want get back with higher grade in this type.

I have around 8 other neo shrimps tank and 2 other rare strain guppy tank, so I picked out 1 of guppy tank and convert into this new project. Yes, the tank is no longer have guppy anymore after I did the clean and WC with RO water + Salty Shrimp GH+.

You are right, the TDS is around 75-80 ppm, which is equal near or at gH 4. Which I understand it is within the range for BKK

My tank temp is stable at 72 degree.

as a shrimp keeper blue bolt shadow panda red wine crystal red crystal black, etc

YOU ARE NOT READY.


but if you insist on trying buy "testing shrimps" at your local fish shop. crystal red or something. See how they do in 1 weeks
@9thdragon, If you could give a bit detail why this tank or how am I not ready would be helpful. Thanks
 

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Good to hear you have had success in keeping soft acidic water Caridinas before (PRL, PBL). I still would recommend refreshening your Caridina keeping abilities by practicing with cheaper low grade CRS/CBS, just to be sure. That way in case you mess up, you don't end up killing more expensive shrimp such as BKK and BB. You could start with lower grade Blue Bolts if you want.

But the decision is entirely yours. If you still think you have the know who, then go ahead. If it was me, it would be a risky decision and I would just re-test my skills by keeping CRS first, then if you can keep those alive and well, you could always just sell them or return them and then get the BKK and BB.

You plan on keeping the Black King Kongs and Blue Bolts together? Just curious.
You can join the Shrimp Spot forum, people there have those shrimp available and have more experience with them and can share their personal care and breeding experiences/tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Waterlife, thanks for useful advice in this case. Actually, breed shrimps is still one of my daily hobby. I just stopped breed cardin for about a year only since I moved because I sold entire my PRL, PBL colonies. The reason I brought this subject up because I want to make sure this kind BKK, Shadow panda, blue bolt are within this water params due to I dont breed them before. But like you said, they are pretty similar to PRL, PBL water params then I would believe shouldnt be the issue for later.

This tank is using ADA soil for a year now, so shouldnt have issue with ammonia .. Unless it get into mini-cycle due from my WC convert back to RO water

For this new project, I am planning to mix them together. With me, this is new fun project for return.


Yes, I also a member over SS forum too, but havent active over there that much than here.
 

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Yeah the care for BKK, BB, Pandas would be the same as PBL/PRL.

But I should point out that ADA Aquasoil/Amazonia is a active substrate that has a acidic buffering capacity (keeps water stable in the acidic range). However that buffering capacity doesn't last forever and it typically wears out/loses that ability within 8 months to a year. So pretty much it's recommended to be replaced since it no longer has it's effect.

I can't say for sure if your substrate is still good or not. The water parameters look good since you "created" those levels by using RO and remineralizing (you could do the same with inert substrates), however you do want to have an active substrate with it's acidic buffering capacity for soft acidic water Caridinas.

I really do recommend getting advice from more experienced shrimp keepers on Shrimp Spot, as they know a lot more than me and many have used the substrate you have and have kept the shrimp you want, where as I haven't, so my help is not the best.

Just want things to go well for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
@WaterLife, Hopefully it shouldn't be any problem for this aged ADA soil, because I dont use tap for it which mainly if people use ADA Soil with Tap it will help for pH lower down, which is isn't my case. Like, my past project with PRL, PBL I run for nearly 3 years with aged ADA soil from other tanks and they still breeds like crazy but slower in winter and then speed up in warmer season.
 

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Your TDS is on the lower side but it'll slowly go up anyways so ij wouldn't worry too much since you're using SS GH+ with RO water. I would try to get ammonia and nitrates to 0 first. Maybe add some plants and floaters to help with nitrates. There are zeolite boards that temporarily help with ammonia spikes. Since you've already had experience with PRLs BKK amd BB should be fairly similar. You can always get a handful of TB and mischlings if you don't want to break the bank and just test out your tank.
 

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Yeah, I'm sure it was just a typo and he meant 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite.

20-40ppm nitrates is typically safe, though lower or even 0 ppm nitrates would be even better for livestock, especially the lower the better when dealing with sensitive fish/shrimp. Though plants do like to have some nitrogen (best to provide that in the form of nitrates as to be least toxic to fish/shrimp, but I am sure they would be getting some nitrogen anyways, just not really enough to keep a traceable level present)

So just get ammonia and nitrite to stay at 0 ppm. 5-40 ppm nitrates are fine (though I'd probably say 20-30 ppm being the higher end when dealing with sensitive shrimp). You should be good to go water parameter wise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@WaterLife, Last night at 8PM, I added pure ammonia from Ace hardware to ensure the tank isn't in mini-cycle. I will check the ammonia/Nitrite in this morning to see the result.

So you are saying 20-30ppm Nitrates for type of BKK/BB ??

It look like Shrimspot forum is down right?
 

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Yeah looks like Shrimp Spot is having some site/domain issues right now. Just happened, but should be up soon.

I am saying 20-40ppm nitrates are usually regarded as safe levels for fish. Higher than that and water changes are recommended to be done some time soon to keep nitrates within safer levels. But seeing as shrimp can be more sensitive than fish, especially being Caridinas which aren't typically as hardy as Neos, and especially being you are dealing with BKK and BB, which are even less hardy (the fancier shrimp are usually a result of selective breeding which most often results in poorer health genetics to achieve the desired looks), and since they are more sensitive, I would personally recommend keeping conditions even more pristine/healthy for them, which is why I mention having 20-30 ppm nitrates or less (0 ammonia, 0 nitrites).

They are nitrates though, and I know they are far less toxic than ammonia or nitrite, and so I may be being a bit too overly cautious with the mentioned nitrate ppm levels, but when dealing with sensitive livestock, I'd rather be safe than sorry. But yes, the lower amount of toxins/stressors, the better for shrimp lifespans, growth rates, health/immunity, and even better breeding rates (though when talking about these low nitrates levels it might not be a very noticeable difference).

Look up fishless cycling, as I forgot how much time X amount of ammonia should convert to nitrite to nitrate in a fully cycled tank.
 

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These shrimp are not hard to care for, get your params in check and get a routine. With a good routine you rarely need to keep checking params unless you are diagnosing a particular issue.
TDS is not very important as long as you do not have huge swings; I have had tanks from 100 all the way to 180 without issue.
Temperature is important as at higher temps you run into possible infection issues.
Personally I would get rid of the powder remineralizer and get a high quality liquid version, makes getting water ready quick and easy.
Trace minerals are also very important and often overlooked.
Your substrate will be fine well past a year if you use RO, no need to change it after 8 months.
Like mentioned before shrimp spot is a great resource.
 
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