Does anyone have experience with LX 7004/7006 and how they compare to other high-end lights ?

jake21 said:

I did a bit of searching and there are a few older threads that comment on the LX lights but most of it was speculative based off of graphs and not first hand experience. I'm considering these for an aquarium that would be 10 ft x 3 ft x 2 ft (l,w,h); but not sure if they are the right path over wrgb or onf. I have the wrgb2 on a couple of tanks now and while they seem pretty decent they result in lousy pictures (compared to onf+ and fluval 3.0) and long term they have a horrible record. I have some concern about the LX including price point; electricity consumption and noise as well as quality of the actual light on plants. Feedback would be helpful as I can very little in the way of reviews or similar when searching for articles.

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Well maybe a real world user will eventually chime in but see no reason not to trust the German engineering.
Spectrum is everything but the kitchen sink..
One thing though GHL lists 6500k as base spectrum BUT Spectra puts it at more like 10000k and relatively low CRI (fixable w/ channel selection).
The tank link on the bottom somewhat supports Spectra but with 9 channels who knows how it was tweaked.

For Freshwater

• Diagram shows Relative Spectral Radiation Power, all LEDs running at 100%
• 1000 K – 18000 K adjustment range of color temperature
• 6800 K center color temperature
• 9 seperately dimmable colors, LEDs within each cluster:
  2 x Cree XPG3 Sky White, 2 x Cree XPG3 Warm White, 2 x Cree XPG3 Cool White, 1 x Cree XP-E2 Blue, 1 x XT-E Royal Blue, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL True Green, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL Yellow, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL Red, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL Hyperred
• Mitras LX 7004 has 4 clusters (Total of 48 LEDs)

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See #EdWiser..

jeffkrol said:

Well maybe a real world user will eventually chime in but see no reason not to trust the German engineering.
Spectrum is everything but the kitchen sink..
One thing though GHL lists 6500k as base spectrum BUT Spectra puts it at more like 10000k and relatively low CRI (fixable w/ channel selection).
The tank link on the bottom somewhat supports Spectra but with 9 channels who knows how it was tweaked.

• View attachment 1033114

Tank Of The Month – TOTM April 2020 – GHL (International)

www.aquariumcomputer.com

See #EdWiser..

Lighting for a 75 gallon?

Hi there, I have a couple of questions: 1) Is a single Fluval 3.0 enough for a standard 75 gal? 2) If so, how do you use a fluval 3.0 with a hood?! 3) If not, what lighting would you recommend for a 75 gal with medium-high lighting (no co2 injection)? Thanks for any advice!!

www.plantedtank.net

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I skimmed the threads but it isn't clear to me what is being said. First why is the CRI important; a pleasing look isn't necessarily one that matches reality; of course the look could just as easily be unpleasing or unnatural. Also i'm not sure if the thread are comparing the GHL to fluval. I have the fluval on several tanks and the output is not really adequate at 24 inches but the actual light output (spectrum) is pleasing using the default plant setting (the light has several quick set profile but you can of course set as you please). The light itself has more colour led than i have found on either the onf or wrgb2 making it a bit more flexible with regards to spectrum; even if a bit weak for the price point.
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However I'm not sure how it compares to the 7004/7006; nor do i see the thread you referenced directly commenting on such. From a look perspective at least as set the 7004 is definitely on the blue side which in my personal opinion is less pleasing.

You mentioned "lousy pictures" so closet to 100cri at 6500k gives a camera an easy wb target. If that is what you are referring to
Sort of the same thing w/ rgb only lights.
The punctated spectrum gives a punchy though odd " look". Even my red,cyan,blue,lime,pcamber is "different" from any high cri lights I've built. Better? Worse? No just different.
The cool tone is easily mitigated w/ dimming the blue.

There really is no comparison between the fluval and ghl.

Output, channel flexibility, and depth penetration are vastly different between the 2.

Only plus on the fluval is it's water proof and fanless.

Only minus " I" give to the mitras is no cyan.
Btw using ind. diodes over curve extrapolation has it at 7500-ish k and much higher cri.
Cri is "dated" but can at least give a ballpark of "look".

Sort of apples to oranges.

If you want personal opinions the onf series is never a contender mostly because their split is in the wrong place.
Should be like 2500-8000 and 5500-10000.
Not sure of the spectrum quality of their whites.
Any rgb is just different and not err natural though that sounds more of a knock on them it isn't. In that regard " natural" can be err dull.
Again.. " my opinion" and with due respect to other opinions.
Not crazy over the channel choices for the Fluval either. Why pink?

A 3' wide tank is a challenge.
24" deep isn't so much but needs either a lot of power or goid optics.
Not sure a single row of mitras would cover it.
It def will not be a cheap investment.
I'd consider a popbloom/ dsuny system or sbreef.

jake21 said:

Would you go with the xp 80 for planted or 6000K unit. Also I can't find much about these with regards to coverage et all. Not sure how these compare to the $60 flood lights but they are 10x more expensive

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I'd prefer the multi-colored chip over plain 6500k chips.
I'd contemplate a custom board if I was spending that kind of money though.

Yea they are pretty close to floods in function.
See this is why I prefer diy.. Choice of cheap stuff over crippled ( no channels) expensive stuff.

8 30" dsuny panels is about $1600.

3 banks of 36" t5's though I'd probably go 6 or 8 bulb.
$1380

Sorry that size tank is like a " professional" tank and hard to go amateur lighting..

4 250W metal halides.. 6500k bulbs.
Or DIY .. This is a 200gal plus tank.. Cost was under $400 I believe. You'd need to double the size.
Building it, though tedious, is pretty simple.

Well have to plead ignorance on what smart switches can and can' t do.

As to the above every light and every channel on the light is programmable. One can go to the diode level with addressable led strips.

I' ve only glanced at it soooo bear with me.

Maybe the same thing but one still needs to program them ..somehow.

Point is to get the lightheads that are chipped to accept addressing.

Sorry, sort of "stealing" this thread. I've been curious about using DMX for aquarium lighting for ahwhile BUT my understanding of it is quite weak.
Technically it is overkill unless you want to zone an aquarium.
Digging into it a bit more I realized the "drivers" I listed above are unnecessary if the lights are DMX "enabled" .

In the sot of above example, basically if you just wanted global dimming/color control you just set all units as channel one and a 4 channel system.
so all lights will have equal dimming of one color. As to current technology something that simple doesn't need much so sort of pointless.

A short explanation of running either ind. light units (4ch each) or a group.

Now it's possible al these smart lights are just based on the same or similar system..like Zigbee.
but you sort of fall down the same rabbit hole.
Compatible lights..Need dedicated hardware.. ect.
Not to mention a 24/7 program schedule.
Both systems would be capable but ???
And both would need RTC to keep the schedules in sync.

Unlike with regular lights, you can often schedule your smart lights without Alexa or an Alexa-powered device. Instead, when you purchase smart lights, you can use the manufacturer’s app to set up schedules. However, you’ll need to check the app to confirm that scheduling is supported.

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As to off brands ect.. I don't know how "robust" they are and one would more than likely be stuck without a standard.

Sorry more off the cuff stuff for myself really.

BTW: Found larger RGBW Novostellas but note the err "warnings"
$470/8 not bad.. 72 whites, 48rgb sooo 216 diodes at about .2W each..43W??
Need to know if 60 is "real" wattage or fake... seems about right in reference to lumens and possibly whites driven harder than .2W

60W smart flood light with 6000 lumens RGB + 5000K daylight white, work with Alexa and Google Home

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Q1: What is the difference vs Bluetooth version?

A1: Bluetooth version with a hub fulfills the demand of a larger quantity and higher synchronization. If you only want a small handful of smart lights in your home, the Wi-Fi version is recommended. No need of hub and just set up like other Wi-Fi-based products: Install it and use the app to connect it to your Wi-Fi network. But note that sometimes your Wi-Fi is not able to bear too many devices especially when all your smart devices are connected. Potential risk is that the network speed could be slow down or your devices could even be disconnected.

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I've had too many issues with Bluetooth per se though. Between Android and bluetooth "versions".. or just plain finicky connections.

Guess a daily schedule is fairly easy in Alexa..of course you need an Alexa.

sorry more of a ramble than anything but you might get something out of it.

Specifications
● Brand: Novostella
● SKU: NTF68-RGBW-US-2-A-new
● UPC: 793513140812
● Wireless type: 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Only
● Shape Material: Aluminum
● Energy Efficiency Label: A+
● Wattage: 60W
● Luminous Flux: 6000lm
● Colour: RGBCW (RGB & Daylight White)
● Colour Temperature: 5000K
● Waterproof: IP66
● Dimmable: YES
● Input Voltage: AC100-240V
● Lifespan: 20000 hrs

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Huh..got a quote on the dmx lights.
6 50 watt rgbw dmx enabled lights is only about $400 BUT and a big one... Shipping is $250.
Always the problem w/ China direct...
10 30w is $800 inc. shipping.

Fyi...

All the others were cost options to the GHL Mitras.
Software it tailored to an aquarium ( would like more info for final judgement, number of set points, smoothness of ramping).
High power density. Cons, no cyan ( common personal issue and overall minor).
Current " theory" points to possible benefits of IR (730-ish) but that is a global issue.
It will have a teeny amount from the deep red diodes.

All the rest I feel would be a kludge.
The DMX "may" be eventually good but would take a lot of work to get there or be permanently tethered to a laptop.

The Amazonias are just too channel limited but if you settle for a one color ramp ..ok.
I don't think the multicolor freshwater look
would not be rejected by anyone but ???.
Since it is unadjustable it is a risk.

The rgbw "alexas".. possibly software limited.
Can you set multiple times per color and/ or light?. Software designed for architecture/home just doesn't "feel" err adaptable to an aquarium but could be wrong.

That said, and the cost barrier err broken it does open the field up to others of its kind.
AI Primes, Radions, programmable Sbreef, and some newer Kessils.
Even t5/led hybrids. Like 4-24". Tube efficiency is fine, delivery is not.
I'd avoid odd size tubes and stick with 24 or 48. Your width does make it a little problematic though. Have to think about sideways 24's.

jeffkrol said:

That said, and the cost barrier err broken it does open the field up to others of its kind.
AI Primes, Radions, programmable Sbreef, and some newer Kessils.
Even t5/led hybrids. Like 4-24". Tube efficiency is fine, delivery is not.
I'd avoid odd size tubes and stick with 24 or 48. Your width does make it a little problematic though. Have to think about sideways 24's.

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I would think the ai primes would not be an option because of the raw number of units required; also i would question the par value. 48 inch tubes could be used esp if there are two rows with some areas of non-overlap but i don't like the idea of having to frequently replace the tubes. the blackbox (i presume same as sbreef) lights won't ramp and eat a huge amount of power. I would need at least 4 units for coverage but then have overkill par at the bottom. Not sure where the kessils fit in with regards to price for number of required units. They are stronger than the ai prime but of course more expensive but the newer units are app programmable without additional module. One other interesting option is the chihiros vivid-2. According to ai it would take 8 prime to cover the tank but i suspect par would be weak.
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It sounds like from your own analysis the ghl are the right way to go if one can suffer the huge price.

jake21 said:

I would think the ai primes would not be an option because of the raw number of units required; also i would question the par value. 48 inch tubes could be used esp if there are two rows with some areas of non-overlap but i don't like the idea of having to frequently replace the tubes. the blackbox (i presume same as sbreef) lights won't ramp and eat a huge amount of power. I would need at least 4 units for coverage but then have overkill par at the bottom. Not sure where the kessils fit in with regards to price for number of required units. They are stronger than the ai prime but of course more expensive but the newer units are app programmable without additional module.
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It sounds like for your own analysis the ghl are the right way to go if one can suffer the huge price.

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sb:

Fully programmable Only 2 channels. Can't verify ramp but abrupt on/off or say 50-100% "snap" is old school nowadays.
Power draw is dependent on percent output but their diodes aren't the most efficient AFAICT.. BUT speculation on my part.
Overall though probably close to tubes..Overall an upgrade from black boxes..

There are no fw centric black boxes but can run just the "white" channel (though still cool, like Beamswork multi-color lights).
This downgrades them to about 50W each.

Kessil has limited channels cool to cooler white but added red and amber in the X. suspect the same horrible cyan dip and low cri whites.

Radion and Kessel "add ons" increase the tco significantly.
Radion and Kessil both "annoy" me. Radion because they significantly improved their saltwater and should have applied it to their fw. as a personal correspondence they have no plans to do that.
Kessil is just too err "secretive' for my taste. i.e PAR? What nm diodes ect.