The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a bit of searching and there are a few older threads that comment on the LX lights but most of it was speculative based off of graphs and not first hand experience. I'm considering these for an aquarium that would be 10 ft x 3 ft x 2 ft (l,w,h); but not sure if they are the right path over wrgb or onf. I have the wrgb2 on a couple of tanks now and while they seem pretty decent they result in lousy pictures (compared to onf+ and fluval 3.0) and long term they have a horrible record. I have some concern about the LX including price point; electricity consumption and noise as well as quality of the actual light on plants. Feedback would be helpful as I can very little in the way of reviews or similar when searching for articles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
I did a bit of searching and there are a few older threads that comment on the LX lights but most of it was speculative based off of graphs and not first hand experience. I'm considering these for an aquarium that would be 10 ft x 3 ft x 2 ft (l,w,h); but not sure if they are the right path over wrgb or onf. I have the wrgb2 on a couple of tanks now and while they seem pretty decent they result in lousy pictures (compared to onf+ and fluval 3.0) and long term they have a horrible record. I have some concern about the LX including price point; electricity consumption and noise as well as quality of the actual light on plants. Feedback would be helpful as I can very little in the way of reviews or similar when searching for articles.
Well maybe a real world user will eventually chime in but see no reason not to trust the German engineering.
Spectrum is everything but the kitchen sink..
One thing though GHL lists 6500k as base spectrum BUT Spectra puts it at more like 10000k and relatively low CRI (fixable w/ channel selection).
The tank link on the bottom somewhat supports Spectra but with 9 channels who knows how it was tweaked.
For Freshwater
  • Diagram shows Relative Spectral Radiation Power, all LEDs running at 100%
  • 1000 K – 18000 K adjustment range of color temperature
  • 6800 K center color temperature
  • 9 seperately dimmable colors, LEDs within each cluster:
    2 x Cree XPG3 Sky White, 2 x Cree XPG3 Warm White, 2 x Cree XPG3 Cool White, 1 x Cree XP-E2 Blue, 1 x XT-E Royal Blue, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL True Green, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL Yellow, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL Red, 1 x Osram Oslon SSL Hyperred
  • Mitras LX 7004 has 4 clusters (Total of 48 LEDs)
  • 1033114

See #EdWiser..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well maybe a real world user will eventually chime in but see no reason not to trust the German engineering.
Spectrum is everything but the kitchen sink..
One thing though GHL lists 6500k as base spectrum BUT Spectra puts it at more like 10000k and relatively low CRI (fixable w/ channel selection).
The tank link on the bottom somewhat supports Spectra but with 9 channels who knows how it was tweaked.


See #EdWiser..

I skimmed the threads but it isn't clear to me what is being said. First why is the CRI important; a pleasing look isn't necessarily one that matches reality; of course the look could just as easily be unpleasing or unnatural. Also i'm not sure if the thread are comparing the GHL to fluval. I have the fluval on several tanks and the output is not really adequate at 24 inches but the actual light output (spectrum) is pleasing using the default plant setting (the light has several quick set profile but you can of course set as you please). The light itself has more colour led than i have found on either the onf or wrgb2 making it a bit more flexible with regards to spectrum; even if a bit weak for the price point.
-
However I'm not sure how it compares to the 7004/7006; nor do i see the thread you referenced directly commenting on such. From a look perspective at least as set the 7004 is definitely on the blue side which in my personal opinion is less pleasing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
You mentioned "lousy pictures" so closet to 100cri at 6500k gives a camera an easy wb target. If that is what you are referring to
Sort of the same thing w/ rgb only lights.
The punctated spectrum gives a punchy though odd " look". Even my red,cyan,blue,lime,pcamber is "different" from any high cri lights I've built. Better? Worse? No just different.
The cool tone is easily mitigated w/ dimming the blue.

There really is no comparison between the fluval and ghl.

Output, channel flexibility, and depth penetration are vastly different between the 2.

Only plus on the fluval is it's water proof and fanless.

Only minus " I" give to the mitras is no cyan.
Btw using ind. diodes over curve extrapolation has it at 7500-ish k and much higher cri.
Cri is "dated" but can at least give a ballpark of "look".

Sort of apples to oranges.

If you want personal opinions the onf series is never a contender mostly because their split is in the wrong place.
Should be like 2500-8000 and 5500-10000.
Not sure of the spectrum quality of their whites.
Any rgb is just different and not err natural though that sounds more of a knock on them it isn't. In that regard " natural" can be err dull.
Again.. " my opinion" and with due respect to other opinions.
Not crazy over the channel choices for the Fluval either. Why pink?

A 3' wide tank is a challenge.
24" deep isn't so much but needs either a lot of power or goid optics.
Not sure a single row of mitras would cover it.
It def will not be a cheap investment.
I'd consider a popbloom/ dsuny system or sbreef.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For coverage it would be 5x Lx 7006 (there stated coverage is 3ftx4ft so rotate appropriately). So not cheap. I have a couple of black box from nilgoc which i assume are similar to sbree. I could go that route my biggest complaint with them is no ram up/down for on/off; absolutely 100% not water resistant and some concern about overall power consumption. I would need 5 or 6 of them to get proper coverage. Not cheap but cheaper than ghl and a heck of a lot brighter. Also the channels are not adjustable on them so you either like the look or not.

There are some flood lights that are around $60 a shot and have some adjustability I think it would take about 8 of those to cover the tank they are bright and water proof and while ugly nicer than the black box lights.

You mentioned "lousy pictures" so closet to 100cri at 6500k gives a camera an easy wb target. If that is what you are referring to
Sort of the same thing w/ rgb only lights.
The punctated spectrum gives a punchy though odd " look". Even my red,cyan,blue,lime,pcamber is "different" from any high cri lights I've built. Better? Worse? No just different.
The cool tone is easily mitigated w/ dimming the blue.

There really is no comparison between the fluval and ghl.

Output, channel flexibility, and depth penetration are vastly different between the 2.

Only plus on the fluval is it's water proof and fanless.

Only minus " I" give to the mitras is no cyan.
Btw using ind. diodes over curve extrapolation has it at 7500-ish k and much higher cri.
Cri is "dated" but can at least give a ballpark of "look".

Sort of apples to oranges.

If you want personal opinions the onf series is never a contender mostly because their split is in the wrong place.
Should be like 2500-8000 and 5500-10000.
Not sure of the spectrum quality of their whites.
Any rgb is just different and not err natural though that sounds more of a knock on them it isn't. In that regard " natural" can be err dull.
Again.. " my opinion" and with due respect to other opinions.
Not crazy over the channel choices for the Fluval either. Why pink?

A 3' wide tank is a challenge.
24" deep isn't so much but needs either a lot of power or goid optics.
Not sure a single row of mitras would cover it.
It def will not be a cheap investment.
I'd consider a popbloom/ dsuny system or sbreef.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
Another option:

Can get dimmable driver but think it is " global" so no color changing.
Probably need 3 @ about $700 each and lots of headroom w/ 60 degree lenses.
They can be customized.

AI primes...12 minimum 6x2..$2772
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would you go with the xp 80 for planted or 6000K unit. Also I can't find much about these with regards to coverage et all. Not sure how these compare to the $60 flood lights but they are 10x more expensive ;)


Another option:

Can get dimmable driver but think it is " global" so no color changing.
Probably need 3 @ about $700 each and lots of headroom w/ 60 degree lenses.
They can be customized.

AI primes...12 minimum 6x2..$2772
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
Would you go with the xp 80 for planted or 6000K unit. Also I can't find much about these with regards to coverage et all. Not sure how these compare to the $60 flood lights but they are 10x more expensive ;)
I'd prefer the multi-colored chip over plain 6500k chips.
I'd contemplate a custom board :) if I was spending that kind of money though.

Yea they are pretty close to floods in function.
See this is why I prefer diy.. Choice of cheap stuff over crippled ( no channels) expensive stuff.

8 30" dsuny panels is about $1600.

3 banks of 36" t5's though I'd probably go 6 or 8 bulb.
$1380

Sorry that size tank is like a " professional" tank and hard to go amateur lighting.. :)

4 250W metal halides.. 6500k bulbs.
Or DIY .. This is a 200gal plus tank.. Cost was under $400 I believe. You'd need to double the size.
Building it, though tedious, is pretty simple.

1033122
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If i remember correctly metal halides are watt drawers and quite warm; like wise tubes have short life and need frequent replacement. What about something like these:

12 of these would only be $370 and use 250 watts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
I personally can' t recommend less than 1w/ gallon of leds. So whatever gets you to that ....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
So the 60 watt version of those light 8 of them would be 480 watts and cost around $600.
Those are rgb only. Your first one ( lower wattage) were rgbwhite. Look will be different.
Many LOVE the rgb look, others " question" it.
None really hate it.
You need to see it for yourself.
I'd get one and see first before commiting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Those are rgb only. Your first one ( lower wattage) were rgbwhite. Look will be different.
Many LOVE the rgb look, others " question" it.
None really hate it.
You need to see it for yourself.
I'd get one and see first before commiting.
Good catch. I much rather have rgb white; and will look for one that is 40-80 watt. I have a non-rgb flood light that I used on a 5 gallon pail; was great for growing plants but ugly as sin and has the same problem as black boxes with regard to light ramp. The amazonia unit you link looks interesting and I'll try to dig out more info on it. I still have about 10 months to think about this project. I really like the fluval lights myself just wish they were a wee bit more powerful and a bit less expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
Good catch. I much rather have rgb white; and will look for one that is 40-80 watt. I have a non-rgb flood light that I used on a 5 gallon pail; was great for growing plants but ugly as sin and has the same problem as black boxes with regard to light ramp. The amazonia unit you link looks interesting and I'll try to dig out more info on it. I still have about 10 months to think about this project. I really like the fluval lights myself just wish they were a wee bit more powerful and a bit less expensive.
Yea you need to be careful. Like these at Ali.. Say RGBW but if you dig a bit it "looks" more like just plain RGB.

Fun typo.. 400W ???
soo another 40w equivalent... 4000 lumens. Lumens are close to one t5 (4650 lumens)
Big tanks give me cyphring headaches.
Warm white.. 18 plus should do. Real wattage would help.. May be 20-ish more likely same 17ish watts.
It's really hard since not all diodes are equal. I may need to flex on this 500w thing.

$440 for 20..300w.. ??

With soo many lights you really move into Dali territory. For " fun" I sent a pricing request for addressable rgbw led floods.
Overall a system would be north of $1000 but hey who wouldn't want full "stage" control of like 10x 4 separate channels?
Drivers per light would be $46.
Yea getting really geeky here.
Programmers are relatively cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now I'm lost - what would you do with those controllers? Plug the lights into them? I mean you can buy kasa smart switches pretty cheap these days so I'm a bit lost. Also I don't want things to complicated that when they suddenly break it takes a huge effort to remember how to put everything back together.

There is a certainly advantage to keep things simple esp if periodically lights are going to fail on their own.

With soo many lights you really move into Dali territory. For " fun" I sent a pricing request for addressable rgbw led floods.
Overall a system would be north of $1000 but hey who wouldn't want full "stage" control of like 10x 4 separate channels?
Drivers per light would be $46.
Yea getting really geeky here.
Programmers are relatively cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
Well have to plead ignorance on what smart switches can and can' t do.

As to the above every light and every channel on the light is programmable. One can go to the diode level with addressable led strips.

I' ve only glanced at it soooo bear with me.

Maybe the same thing but one still needs to program them ..somehow.

Point is to get the lightheads that are chipped to accept addressing.

Sorry, sort of "stealing" this thread. I've been curious about using DMX for aquarium lighting for ahwhile BUT my understanding of it is quite weak.
Technically it is overkill unless you want to zone an aquarium.
Digging into it a bit more I realized the "drivers" I listed above are unnecessary if the lights are DMX "enabled" .

In the sot of above example, basically if you just wanted global dimming/color control you just set all units as channel one and a 4 channel system.
so all lights will have equal dimming of one color. As to current technology something that simple doesn't need much so sort of pointless.

A short explanation of running either ind. light units (4ch each) or a group.

Now it's possible al these smart lights are just based on the same or similar system..like Zigbee.
but you sort of fall down the same rabbit hole.
Compatible lights..Need dedicated hardware.. ect.
Not to mention a 24/7 program schedule.
Both systems would be capable but ???
And both would need RTC to keep the schedules in sync.
Unlike with regular lights, you can often schedule your smart lights without Alexa or an Alexa-powered device. Instead, when you purchase smart lights, you can use the manufacturer’s app to set up schedules. However, you’ll need to check the app to confirm that scheduling is supported.
As to off brands ect.. I don't know how "robust" they are and one would more than likely be stuck without a standard.

Sorry more off the cuff stuff for myself really.

BTW: Found larger RGBW Novostellas but note the err "warnings"
$470/8 not bad.. 72 whites, 48rgb sooo 216 diodes at about .2W each..43W??
Need to know if 60 is "real" wattage or fake... seems about right in reference to lumens and possibly whites driven harder than .2W
60W smart flood light with 6000 lumens RGB + 5000K daylight white, work with Alexa and Google Home
Q1: What is the difference vs Bluetooth version?

A1: Bluetooth version with a hub fulfills the demand of a larger quantity and higher synchronization. If you only want a small handful of smart lights in your home, the Wi-Fi version is recommended. No need of hub and just set up like other Wi-Fi-based products: Install it and use the app to connect it to your Wi-Fi network. But note that sometimes your Wi-Fi is not able to bear too many devices especially when all your smart devices are connected. Potential risk is that the network speed could be slow down or your devices could even be disconnected.
I've had too many issues with Bluetooth per se though. Between Android and bluetooth "versions".. or just plain finicky connections.

Guess a daily schedule is fairly easy in Alexa..of course you need an Alexa.

sorry more of a ramble than anything but you might get something out of it.

Specifications
● Brand: Novostella
● SKU: NTF68-RGBW-US-2-A-new
● UPC: 793513140812
Wireless type: 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Only
● Shape Material: Aluminum
● Energy Efficiency Label: A+
Wattage: 60W
● Luminous Flux: 6000lm
● Colour: RGBCW (RGB & Daylight White)
● Colour Temperature: 5000K
Waterproof: IP66
● Dimmable: YES
● Input Voltage: AC100-240V
Lifespan: 20000 hrs
Huh..got a quote on the dmx lights.
6 50 watt rgbw dmx enabled lights is only about $400 BUT and a big one... Shipping is $250.
Always the problem w/ China direct...
10 30w is $800 inc. shipping.

Fyi...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I rather use blue-tooth than alexa; So of all the mentioned solution which one do you think will best meet my needs. those amazonia lights, ghl lights or the wrgb 60 watt flood lights ? I'm not sure laying strips of lights will actually meet my requirement of decent illumination of a planted tank (decent includes pleasing spectrum).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
All the others were cost options to the GHL Mitras.
Software it tailored to an aquarium ( would like more info for final judgement, number of set points, smoothness of ramping).
High power density. Cons, no cyan ( common personal issue and overall minor).
Current " theory" points to possible benefits of IR (730-ish) but that is a global issue.
It will have a teeny amount from the deep red diodes.

All the rest I feel would be a kludge.
The DMX "may" be eventually good but would take a lot of work to get there or be permanently tethered to a laptop.

The Amazonias are just too channel limited but if you settle for a one color ramp ..ok.
I don't think the multicolor freshwater look
would not be rejected by anyone but ???.
Since it is unadjustable it is a risk.

The rgbw "alexas".. possibly software limited.
Can you set multiple times per color and/ or light?. Software designed for architecture/home just doesn't "feel" err adaptable to an aquarium but could be wrong.

That said, and the cost barrier err broken it does open the field up to others of its kind.
AI Primes, Radions, programmable Sbreef, and some newer Kessils.
Even t5/led hybrids. Like 4-24". Tube efficiency is fine, delivery is not.
I'd avoid odd size tubes and stick with 24 or 48. Your width does make it a little problematic though. Have to think about sideways 24's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
That said, and the cost barrier err broken it does open the field up to others of its kind.
AI Primes, Radions, programmable Sbreef, and some newer Kessils.
Even t5/led hybrids. Like 4-24". Tube efficiency is fine, delivery is not.
I'd avoid odd size tubes and stick with 24 or 48. Your width does make it a little problematic though. Have to think about sideways 24's.
I would think the ai primes would not be an option because of the raw number of units required; also i would question the par value. 48 inch tubes could be used esp if there are two rows with some areas of non-overlap but i don't like the idea of having to frequently replace the tubes. the blackbox (i presume same as sbreef) lights won't ramp and eat a huge amount of power. I would need at least 4 units for coverage but then have overkill par at the bottom. Not sure where the kessils fit in with regards to price for number of required units. They are stronger than the ai prime but of course more expensive but the newer units are app programmable without additional module. One other interesting option is the chihiros vivid-2. According to ai it would take 8 prime to cover the tank but i suspect par would be weak.
-
It sounds like from your own analysis the ghl are the right way to go if one can suffer the huge price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,690 Posts
I would think the ai primes would not be an option because of the raw number of units required; also i would question the par value. 48 inch tubes could be used esp if there are two rows with some areas of non-overlap but i don't like the idea of having to frequently replace the tubes. the blackbox (i presume same as sbreef) lights won't ramp and eat a huge amount of power. I would need at least 4 units for coverage but then have overkill par at the bottom. Not sure where the kessils fit in with regards to price for number of required units. They are stronger than the ai prime but of course more expensive but the newer units are app programmable without additional module.
-
It sounds like for your own analysis the ghl are the right way to go if one can suffer the huge price.
sb:

Fully programmable Only 2 channels. Can't verify ramp but abrupt on/off or say 50-100% "snap" is old school nowadays.
Power draw is dependent on percent output but their diodes aren't the most efficient AFAICT.. BUT speculation on my part.
Overall though probably close to tubes..Overall an upgrade from black boxes..

There are no fw centric black boxes but can run just the "white" channel (though still cool, like Beamswork multi-color lights).
This downgrades them to about 50W each.

Kessil has limited channels cool to cooler white but added red and amber in the X. suspect the same horrible cyan dip and low cri whites.

Radion and Kessel "add ons" increase the tco significantly.
Radion and Kessil both "annoy" me. Radion because they significantly improved their saltwater and should have applied it to their fw. as a personal correspondence they have no plans to do that.
Kessil is just too err "secretive' for my taste. i.e PAR? What nm diodes ect.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top