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My latest rack is a sump designed system. 5 tanks all drain into 1 large sump. 40G breeder is the sump. probably a bit more complex than needed but I really want to explore this option on a limited scale to see the results.
1 large return pump pumps the water back up into a T. each tank has its ball valve return and DIY PVC overflow. next time i'll just drill the tanks for a bulked overflow.

1 week of cycling and water parameters are almost within the correct range.
The sump maximizes the refugium area. I used some plastic containers to hold aged soil and added a giant pile of moss.

I will explain in more detail later. very busy @ work today.

if this site would allow you to post FB photos it would be awesome...
uploading to flickr... please hold.


 

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I dont see a problem with how you want to do it. a couple of the biggest reasons I went with this sump setup is.
1. water volume. a lot easier to stay on top of parameters when I have close to 100G of water vs maintaining parameters in each individual tank.
2. sump refugium. this creates a great place for bacteria, algae, and nitrate sucking plants. keeps them all out of your displays.
3. when time comes for me to replace soil I can just shut off 1 tank replace the soil. put a small HOB on it while it cycles. once i'm satisfied with parameters introduce it back into the system. I even have a spare couple of these tanks I could start cycling and swap them out as needed.

I little elbow grease now goes a long way down the road.
I use 3/4 for the over flow which can flow more than i'll need, the return from the sump pump is 1" because of the pump sizing and after it Ts off its 1.25"
I figure its flowing about 60-80gph to each tank. each tank has air powered UGF and dual sponge filter.

pvc gph flow rates.
http://flexpvc.com/WaterFlowBasedOnPipeSize.shtml

here is a photo of my 3 selective breeder cubes. they are isolated systems and small so i'm constantly having to monitor the water parameters in them.
being so small ~4G the water can change quickly.

 

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So basically you have a pump per aquarium with an overflow back down to the main holding tank?
I'm sorry if posting the small cubes confuses the topic. The 3 cubes are not part of my sump system. They are isolated environments.
The sump system:
Larger cubes each with DIY overflow pipe that drains down to the sump
The return pump from the sump pumps straight up above the height of the tanks where it Ts off into a larger horizontal pipe.
Each tank has it's own ball valve return off this larger pipe
The opening is slightly above water level to stop a back syphon in case of power loss.

That's the basics. I will go into details of the design if requested.
 

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I understand now, however if you'd go into details of your design, I'd appreciate it as well. :)
I'll pull some photos today and do a nice break down of it all.

I plan on doing the same when I move, but will be drilling the tanks, as that is why I have choosen Mr Aqua tanks. You can drill all sides but the bottom. I will be doing sumps for eahc type of shrimp. 1 Neo 1 Tiger 1 CRS/CBS 1 PRL/PBL 1 TB/Mischling
Yes on my next design I will be drilling the tanks for an bulked overflow pipe. so much simpler design vs DIY PVC overflow. A lot of the breeders I've been communicating with drill the bottom of the tanks under the UGF for a drain pipe. This makes for quick water changes and also removes a lot of the buildup under the UGF when doing so.
 

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how did you decide where to drill the back? I'm always curious about this. I'd want to drill it as high up as possible to maximize water in the tank but at some point you make the rim of the tank weak.... is there a formula for this?
 

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here's the return plumbing from the sump.

right goes back into the sump. this allows for water movement when i have to shut the main return for whatever reason.

left will be for water changes. i've added a few pieces that allow me to put a 5G jug in place and use the power of the sump pump to fill it very quickly.

straight up goes to the tanks. what you cant see is just above the frame is a Georg Fischer Wye Check Valve. probably completely unnecessary since the return nozzles are above the water line but rather have it now than need it later.

(again. completely over built, but wanted to see what i could build)
 

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I think next time i would change the following.

1. drill the tanks for bulked overflow. unlike saltwater tanks shrimp dont need heavy GPH.
its important to get the water out faster than needed so you dont have an overflow.
2. instead of each tank having its own drain down to the sump just put a large 3" pipe that collects all the overflow tubes and 1 drain down to the sump.

something like this.


 
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