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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone made a spraybar and cut a thin slot the full length of the PVC pipe instead of holes? I am making some new ones for my 40 gal and thought I would play with the idea. Just wondered if anyone else had tried it. TIA.
 

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I think we cut 1/8" slots in a DIY spraybar we made and it failed miserably. We didn't cut a full length slot but left some material in between the slots. What we noticed is most of the water came out in a higher velocity closest to the output end of the filter and just a dribble or nothing at the end of the pipe.

You could try it if you want to experiment and post your results.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was thinking of cutting it with a regular handsaw. Put the pipe in a vise and cut along the line. May take a minute, but I am sure I can do it.
After hearing about your try Deeda I may give up the idea. I will sleep on it, but may try it just for the experience. I will post the results if I do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It may take a few weeks, but I will post the results here.

I couldn't wait so I got the materials I need anyway and an extra piece of pipe and made a slotted spraybar. It didn't do as I had hoped. Most all of the water came out the end farthest from the input. I did get the slot a little wider in that area, but I don't think I can get the slot any more consistent with hand tools and I don't think it would mater if I did. The circled part of the pic is where most of the water came out and with too much force. Oh well nothing ventured nothing gained. Back to good ole holes.

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Maybe try zip tying spots along the pipe length to narrow the slot a little bit?

I love trying out DIY projects, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Maybe try zip tying spots along the pipe length to narrow the slot a little bit?

I love trying out DIY projects, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't.
That's a thought. I am going to fiddle with it some more. Trying it in the aquarium is a PITA so I am going to rig a bucket and pump to test it outside. I will post results as they come in....lol
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I read where someone drilled holes, then cut a slot between 2 holes, it was hole,slot,hole,pipe,hole,slot,hole,etc. I just wanted to see if one continuous slot would work. I think it would be a very smooth current across the tank instead of just spot jets. I will keep the hot glue idea in the mix.
 

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Basically, if the area of your slot is greater than the diameter of the supply, then the pressure will drop in the spraybar and it will dribble or flow out from only part of the slot. If the exit area is smaller than your supply diameter, the pressure in the system will increase and create a stronger spray. It will also put more strain on the pump motor... The ziptie idea might make your slot adjustable. Or you could try a couple stainless steel hose clamps. Easier to unclamp than the zipties.
 

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To follow up on what skwerl said, you could determine the area of the supply pipe going into the spraybar as well as the total area of the holes on your standard spraybar. Keep the area of the slit your cutting less than the area of the supply and at least as much as the spray bar holes. From there you can tweek it as needed. A Dremel tool or osscilating tool would make it easier to cut the slit.

I like the idea suggested above of stainless steel hose clamps. You will be able to adjust the slit opening size by adjusting the hose clamps.
 

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I think we cut 1/8" slots in a DIY spraybar we made and it failed miserably. We didn't cut a full length slot but left some material in between the slots. What we noticed is most of the water came out in a higher velocity closest to the output end of the filter and just a dribble or nothing at the end of the pipe.

You could try it if you want to experiment and post your results.
I think this is what would happen. It sounds like a great idea, but the reality is water is going to follow the path of lease resistance. A consistent flow will be dependent on the length of the sprayer and the diameter of the PVC, the size of the slot/channel, and the power of the pump. Extreme Example, you would need a very powerful pump to push water to the end of a 24" long piece of 1" PVC with a 1/4" hole.

The Eheim canister filter has a sprayer with holes. This limits the area that the water can exit thus provides circulation across the entire top of the tank.

When you experiment with this, please post your results.
 

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Very interesting.. I literally just purchased a “Flow Tamer” for the Fluval Fx5/6 and it just has the circles and in a way it seems a little too effective meaning it looks like there no flow in my tank whatsoever. I only ran the output piping about 3/4 the length of my tank as well. Debating to make the outside spray bar tubing length either 1/2, 1/4 or 1/3 the total length of my 60” long tank. Not sure if it will put unnecessary strain on the Fluval motor though.

I also have the output spray bar holes pointed toward the backwall/back floor of the aquarium at almost a 45 degree angle. Is this ideal or should I have it pointed towards the front where everything in the fish tank are located? Or does it not matter?

Either way, dremmel cutting in some slots or better yet, cutting in some “X” shapes over each and every hole in the official “Flow Tamer” may not be a bad idea, especially if configuring the spray bar output tubing to be not running across the majority of the length of the aquarium. Just food for thought; no guarantees the food is good and not spoiled :)

I think this is what would happen. It sounds like a great idea, but the reality is water is going to follow the path of lease resistance. A consistent flow will be dependent on the length of the sprayer and the diameter of the PVC, the size of the slot/channel, and the power of the pump. Extreme Example, you would need a very powerful pump to push water to the end of a 24" long piece of 1" PVC with a 1/4" hole.

The Eheim canister filter has a sprayer with holes. This limits the area that the water can exit thus provides circulation across the entire top of the tank.

When you experiment with this, please post your results.
for what it’s worth, a Fluval fx6 canister filter can power output tubing with no severe loss in output water pressure on the last remaining hole in the output spray bar that is 54” in length.
 

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for what it’s worth, a Fluval fx6 canister filter can power output tubing with no severe loss in output water pressure on the last remaining hole in the output spray bar that is 54” in length.
Soo if one knows the hole size and number @54" you could calculate the the area of a slot based on the design parameters.
Right?

Off hand the slot would seem to be necessarily very tiny in width.

3.14(2mm dia hole) x 9 holes/foot x 4.5 = say 127sq mm max area.
A 12" slit (305mm) can only be O.4 mm wide.

This is based on a eheim 2215 spray bar.
 

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I can perhaps post a picture. I don’t have a micrometer/caliper to measure the hole diameter. I would estimate it is about 3/16” or so
 

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I can perhaps post a picture. I don’t have a micrometer/caliper to measure the hole diameter. I would estimate it is about 3/16” or so
Yea eheim pro 4e holes are approx 11/64 via drill bit..

Split the difference? 4.5mm?
Area 15.9mm.
643sq mm overall
Say 2mm x 305mm slit.
That is max of course.




Or 5mm..;)

I.d(16mm) and area of the hose is only 200 mm.
643 sq mm seems excessive.

Using the 2215 (12 mm id hose) and above calcs the area out is roughly 2x the area of the hose outlet.

Fluid dynamics isn't my strong suit
As a tinker I'd probably start w/ a 1mm x 300 mm slot
 

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My spraybar is a little over 60" length of 3/4" PVC. It extends across the back of my 125g 6' tanks. It's about 4" short of both ends. The rubber end of the hose on the FX6 fits snuggly into a 3/4" female pvc joint so I put a T in the middle with a piece of pipe and a cap on each side. I've got the discharge line from the pump wedged into the T with no glue. I drilled holes (can't remember the exact size but I can check them I space out the holes about every 1 1/2" or so along the front of the spray bar. I also drilled a few holes straight down and into the back corners just to help keep everything stirred up. I started with what I thought would be undersized holes. I figured I could always go to the next size bit or add holes if the flow was too strong. Painted the whole thing black with plastic paint and it blends in pretty well with the black background. I never adjusted hole size. They were good at the first try.
 

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My spraybar is a little over 60" length of 3/4" PVC. It extends across the back of my 125g 6' tanks. It's about 4" short of both ends. The rubber end of the hose on the FX6 fits snuggly into a 3/4" female pvc joint so I put a T in the middle with a piece of pipe and a cap on each side. I've got the discharge line from the pump wedged into the T with no glue. I drilled holes (can't remember the exact size but I can check them I space out the holes about every 1 1/2" or so along the front of the spray bar. I also drilled a few holes straight down and into the back corners just to help keep everything stirred up. I started with what I thought would be undersized holes. I figured I could always go to the next size bit or add holes if the flow was too strong. Painted the whole thing black with plastic paint and it blends in pretty well with the black background. I never adjusted hole size. They were good at the first try.
Which direction do you have the water flow going?
 

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The spray runs across the back and the vast majority of the flow is straight forward. I have a few random holes in the bottom and the ends attempting to break up some lower flow areas.
 
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