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Discussion Starter #21
Thank you. Quick question: the dry red sealant that came pre-applied on the thread how does it work and is there a way to remove it?
 

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Thank you. Quick question: the dry red sealant that came pre-applied on the thread how does it work and is there a way to remove it?
some of them had nothing. A few had red, just left it on.
 

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1. water inside is fine, when the regulator connects to the co2 tank with CGA320, a couple on/off long blast of co2 will push water out.

2. prs3032 is the same as Matheson 3810 and prs3013 is matheson 3120, see picture below, a matheson 3810 https://cuteplushies.net/.

3. normal/cheap brass or forged 304 stainless steel pipe fittings are at least 150 psi max rating, they are fine as working on outlet size of the regulator, but recommend the good fittings, swagelok or equivalent.

Thanks for wonderful answer, i have pne question if we fill tanks with 100 psi regulator then?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I have one with a broken 1st stage (LPG keeps increasing, it seems to be a faulty poppet or seat) and one with broken 2nd stage (leaks very slowly - i guess it's the diaphragm, still testing to confirm). I want to see if I can make a working unit out of the 2. What is the right way to take it apart? I used a vise grip and various adjustable clamp/pliers to take a scrap unit apart and it's pretty hard. I dont want to damage it. After taking the housing off (2nd stage), I could remove the spring, diaphragm but I coulnt find a way to remove the poppet. Do I need to access it through the 1st stage chamber?
 

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I have one with a broken 1st stage (LPG keeps increasing, it seems to be a faulty poppet or seat) and one with broken 2nd stage (leaks very slowly - i guess it's the diaphragm, still testing to confirm). I want to see if I can make a working unit out of the 2. What is the right way to take it apart? I used a vise grip and various adjustable clamp/pliers to take a scrap unit apart and it's pretty hard. I dont want to damage it. After taking the housing off (2nd stage), I could remove the spring, diaphragm but I coulnt find a way to remove the poppet. Do I need to access it through the 1st stage chamber?
On some it looks like it..
victor:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
On some it looks like it..
victor:
I'll to take the 1st stage housing off. Gotta use the heavy duty vise at my workplace. I broke my light duty one.

I am also trying to find a bubble counter+check valve with 1/8npt thread but all the listings on flea bay they never mention the thread if it's BSP or NPT
 

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I'll to take the 1st stage housing off. Gotta use the heavy duty vise at my workplace. I broke my light duty one.

I am also trying to find a bubble counter+check valve with 1/8npt thread but all the listings on flea bay they never mention the thread if it's BSP or NPT

Personally I'd recommend just a bubble counter.
Built in check valves (or any check valve) can easily become problematic.
I know doesn't look pretty, most plain bubble counters are in line not hard plumbed.


1/8 EXPENSIVE bc but also still has a check valve


264491900608
https://www.nilocg.com/shop/advanced-precision-atomic-bubble-counter-regulator-mounted/
Even this doesn't list the thread type.
https://www.bigalspets.com/ista-2-in-1-metal-bubble-counter-check-valve.html?sku=80060
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCNBNM...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


Would it kill them to tell the thread size?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Personally I'd recommend just a bubble counter.
Built in check valves (or any check valve) can easily become problematic.
I know doesn't look pretty, most plain bubble counters are in line not hard plumbed.


1/8 EXPENSIVE bc but also still has a check valve


264491900608
https://www.nilocg.com/shop/advanced-precision-atomic-bubble-counter-regulator-mounted/
Even this doesn't list the thread type.
https://www.bigalspets.com/ista-2-in-1-metal-bubble-counter-check-valve.html?sku=80060
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCNBNM...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


Would it kill them to tell the thread size?
How bad it is to thread 1/8male bsp to 1/8 FNPT? Maybe I'll just go with push-to-connect , inline bubble counter and a hard tube to connect them
 

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How bad it is to thread 1/8male bsp to 1/8 FNPT? Maybe I'll just go with push-to-connect , inline bubble counter and a hard tube to connect them
Doesn't work at all. Accidentally ordered a BSPT solenoid.. No matter what I did it failed.
Maybe a large amount of anaerobic pipe compound but do not recommend it.
Sad thing is they go together 18bspt/1/8npt quite easily for a ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Doesn't work at all. Accidentally ordered a BSPT solenoid.. No matter what I did it failed.
Maybe a large amount of anaerobic pipe compound but do not recommend it.
Sad thing is they go together 18bspt/1/8npt quite easily for a ways.
I guess it's either in-line bubble counters or 1/8mnpt to bsp then (which is pretty hard to find).
 

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Discussion Starter #34
So I have been testing a regulator. Both stages passed the 6-hour test, no leak. I plugged the out port, charged 2nd stage then turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise and disconnected the regulator from the tank. Then I turned the knob clock-wise but the LPG didnt drop and I didnt hear the discharge sound of the air being pushed back out of the inlet. Any idea what happened ?
 

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So I have been testing a regulator. Both stages passed the 6-hour test, no leak. I plugged the out port, charged 2nd stage then turn the knob all the way counter-clockwise and disconnected the regulator from the tank. Then I turned the knob clock-wise but the LPG didnt drop and I didnt hear the discharge sound of the air being pushed back out of the inlet. Any idea what happened ?
not really sure, but I think:
1st stage valve still have problem.
the high pressure co2 pushed through 1st valve, probably a leak, but the low pressure co2 is not released through 1st valve because it is not engaged, and the pressure is low not be able to push through the leak area.

BTW,
this weekend I open three of the same regulators(two matheson 3810 and one prostar 3032), all have problems on the internal, and got them fixed. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
not really sure, but I think:
1st stage valve still have problem.
the high pressure co2 pushed through 1st valve, probably a leak, but the low pressure co2 is not released through 1st valve because it is not engaged, and the pressure is low not be able to push through the leak area.

BTW,
this weekend I open three of the same regulators(two matheson 3810 and one prostar 3032), all have problems on the internal, and got them fixed. :)
How could you fix them? Did you replace any parts? Would it possible to show me how it looks like inside?

So the regulator passed the leak test for both stage. Should I just go ahead and use it? I will do a test where I have the cylinder valve open, charge the 2nd stage and leave it for a while to make sure the pressure downstream wont increase.
 

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How could you fix them? Did you replace any parts? Would it possible to show me how it looks like inside?

So the regulator passed the leak test for both stage. Should I just go ahead and use it? I will do a test where I have the cylinder valve open, charge the 2nd stage and leave it for a while to make sure the pressure downstream wont increase.
charged 1st stage with normal co2 pressure, and if the pressure on second stage not creeping up while the handle is either on or off, the regulator is good to use.


I didn't take the picture, those are not my regulators, I fix them for another hobbyist because I have the tools and know the proper way to have them open.

These prostar 3032/matheson 3810 regulators are original price tag around one thousand dollar a piece, they are complete 316 stainless steel structure, for high purity gas service. Only plastic part inside is high quality HDPE valve seat, rest of the internal parts are 316 stainless steel, and, the inside should be super clean if under the right gas service. A regulator like this will last forever....

So far as I have seen, there is only one reason that they go malfunction, please don't ask me the specific reason, but if you can open the regulator, tighten the internal parts the regulator will be fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
charged 1st stage with normal co2 pressure, and if the pressure on second stage not creeping up while the handle is either on or off, the regulator is good to use.


I didn't take the picture, those are not my regulators, I fix them for another hobbyist because I have the tools and know the proper way to have them open.

These prostar 3032/matheson 3810 regulators are original price tag around one thousand dollar a piece, they are complete 316 stainless steel structure, for high purity gas service. Only plastic part inside is high quality HDPE valve seat, rest of the internal parts are 316 stainless steel, and, the inside should be super clean if under the right gas service. A regulator like this will last forever....

So far as I have seen, there is only one reason that they go malfunction, please don't ask me the specific reason, but if you can open the regulator, tighten the internal parts the regulator will be fixed.
Thank you for your advise. Tested both stage charged passed. So I replaced the LP gauge (the one I got before the arrow doesnt point at 0 with no pressure) and hook up the post body. Now the pressure decrease from 44psi to 40psi in 10 hrs (10% in 10hrs). But before that I tested with the old gauge (output plugged) no leaks in 2,3 days. The leak is probably on the new gauge and/or anywhere between the regulator and solenoid (solenoid off). With such a small leak is it worth it to try to find the leak? 4psi decrease in 10hrs I dont know how much co2 I lost.
 

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10% drop in 10 hours, the leaked co2 is not much because the cavity volume in 2nd stage is really small, but since you catch it before the system is put to use, better to take care of the leak, because this leak is small but it is 24/7, will probably shorten your full tank of co2 usage by one or two weeks, or more depends on the co2 tank size and how much you set the co2 flow rate.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
10% drop in 10 hours, the leaked co2 is not much because the cavity volume in 2nd stage is really small, but since you catch it before the system is put to use, better to take care of the leak, because this leak is small but it is 24/7, will probably shorten your full tank of co2 usage by one or two weeks, or more depends on the co2 tank size and how much you set the co2 flow rate.
Yeah that's what I thought. The leakwill be 24/7. So the leak is on the gauge (tested with plugged outport). I fixed it. Now I still have a leak somewhere between the outport and solenoid. I tested the solenoid before it didnt leak (all connection using teflon tape). Now using tru-blu I have leaks. Wonder if I used it the wrong way. I applied to male threads and tighten them pretty hard.
 
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