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DIY lighting for 125g

1260 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Bushkill
I was thinking of using this ballast:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_167699-14361-REB4P32SC64I_0__?productId=3363210&Ntt=ballast&pl=1¤tURL=&facetInfo=

with 4 24" t8 daylight bulbs like this |=||=|. The tank has a large center brace that blocks a lot of light in the center. I may use 36" bulbs..

Is it recommended that I cover the ballast to prevent accidental water damage?
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I'm not too concerned with water damage as the ballast is enclosed to some extent. I do find an advantage in mounting the ballast outside the hood/canopy to avoid heating the tank with the ballast. The bulbs will give off some heat but my ballast runs hotter than bulbs.
So maybe mount the ballast on the backside of the canopy?
If you do this I think you should use 3' long bulbs, not 2'. And, even that is likely to be too little light for growing anything but mosses, anubias, and a few other low light plants. What is your goal for the tank?
I'm looking to keep it low light with CO2. Crypts, Anubias, moss. Will the 36" bulbs fit? The canopy I'm planning will be enclosed on the ends. The top of the tank measures 72 1/2 inches outside. The 36"bulbs with tombstones would be REALLY close.
They don't have to be end to end. If they don't fit, you could stagger them 1".
If the tank has one centerbrace, is this a 120G instead of a 125G?

The reason I ask is that the diagram looks like you're working with 4 foot tank, and most 125G are 6 feet long.

For the price of the ballast, you can do very well with a pair of shoplights, and T8's of the right spectrum. The ballast and end caps will end up costing about the same as the two shop lights, nothing to assemble and are 4 feet long. They may very well use that same ballast.
It's a 125 Marineland tank. 1 center brace.

I have 2 48" shoplights on there right now. It just looks, well, horrible. I would like to have the lights inside of a canopy to make a clean look for the tank.

I'm paranoid about the center brace becoming brittle from the light/heat that's why I was thinking of using 24" or 36" bulbs so they would not be shining on the brace.
Hmmm. OK, I have to agree the shop lights are "less than attactive". So what I understand is that you're looking to put the shorter fixtures in a canopy to replace the shop lights you have on it now that are exposed?

If I have that right, you really shouldn't have any issues with T8's damaging that brace. In a canopy they wouldn't come in contact (no heat transfer), and the UV damage is a concern with metal halide fixtures used for saltwater applications (was there for 13 years). So in my opinion, you'd be fine building/buying a canopy to accommodate what you have, keeping the bulbs 8-10 high.
Yep.

I would like to use the 48" bulbs that I already have, but I think that there is a lot of wasted light in the center if I stagger them. My canopy design is to keep the top hinged glass accessible (outside) the canopy. So it's more of a partial canopy.

I suppose I'll just have to do a mock-up with the bulbs when the canopy is completed.

(Isn't that PVC classy?):D

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OK, I just realized you posted this is a 6 foot tank. I didn't realize Marineland makes them with one brace though. Lots, like my 125G actually have 2 braces. A real PITA.

Bear in mind that fluorescent tubes begin losing intensity at the tube ends the second you turn them on. Overlapping them in the middle will eventually be unnoticed. There's an added advantage to sticking with 4 foot tubes. They are just easier to find. If you go to 3 foot tubes, that's a length unique to the aquarium hobby, and is just priced like everything else in the hobby.

As a suggestion, you can fill in the space that overlapping the shop lights leaves with two single tube 2-foot T5 fixtures you can buy at Lowe's. About $20 (yeah, nutty when you consider the shop lights cost about $15) a piece. I use them extensively in the fish room with blue actinic bulbs. I leave the house early in the AM and have these set to go on well before I leave so the fish will be awake and active when I feed them, but I don't have to fire up the day lights. I do the reverse when I feed at night. Just a cheap manual timer does the trick and to some extent it simulates a dawn/dusk light cycle. You'll love the tank's colors under the actinics too.
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Light is way overrated as a cause for failure in growing plants! It is only one of lots of causes. I recommend going with the four foot lights you have in a canopy which hides them. My best tank is a 6 fooot 125 gallon where I don't try to have the best plants but a mix of my best fish with plants added.
It has a DIY stand and canopy. For lighting, I found a $4 Craftman 48" shop light that has twin T8 bulbs. I added two CFL twisty bulbs over two areas where I wanted to add some light. I feel my plants are fine considering the fish in that tank. Large African cichlids can be rough on plants. Ludweigi, swords, crypts, all seem to do okay. The lights are not the problem!
My tank

My lights

My fish and plants


I find a single four foot light does well enough and I find no problem with the center brace. I now use the two CFLs on a dawn and dusk setting to let the fish know it's time.
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Yep.

I would like to use the 48" bulbs that I already have, but I think that there is a lot of wasted light in the center if I stagger them. My canopy design is to keep the top hinged glass accessible (outside) the canopy. So it's more of a partial canopy.

I suppose I'll just have to do a mock-up with the bulbs when the canopy is completed.

(Isn't that PVC classy?):D
Question: Where did you buy those shop lights? I have to say they look a LOT nicer than the usual angular/flat ones the box stores in my area sell. I've seen hobby fixtures with the usual crazy hobby price tag that have the nice rounded over outter shell. I just DIY'd a canopy, basically to just hide a shop light. One of those, I wouldn't mind hanging over a tank.
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