[JGates]

Hello. This is my first post here, though I've read many threads over the years. I rarely post questions in forums because I always try my best to find answers before I post a question that's likely already been asked many times over. However, I'm still a bit stumped with putting together my first LED setup and any nudges in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

Tank:

I know this is a bit outside the spirit of this forum, but my planted tank will be a vivarium/terrarium, not an aquarium. I'm actually making a series of tanks, 6 eventually. Dimensions of each tank are 28(w) 19(d) 27(h) with around 20 inches at the deepest needing to receive decent light.

Goals:

My primary goal is for the lighting to look good, with plant growth being a close secondary goal. I'm wanting to do 3 channels of light at different color temps that I can fade up and down independently in order to blend for sunrise/sunset effects.

LED Components I'm leaning toward:

Lights:
I would like to base these fixtures around the Bridgelux EB Gen3 Thrive strips. Unfortunately the cooler white strips aren't available for sale anywhere that I've found, so I'm limited to the 3000K - 5000K color temp range. So, I'm thinking of doing 1 each of the EB strips (560mm length) at 3000K, and 5000K, and then using perhaps a dozen of the Bridgelux SMD 2835 Thrive 1W units at 5700K - 6500K to add a little cooler light to the mix. Adding in the individual 1W lights obviously complicates what would probably be a much simpler build...

560MM EB Strips: 960mA, 20.3V (18.9V - 21.7V)
SMD 2835 1W: 100mA, 8.9V (8.6V - 9.1V)
https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/def... 1W 9V Thrive Data Sheet 20191006 Rev A_0.pdf
https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/def... EB Series Thrive Data Sheet 081320 Rev A.pdf

Controller:
I'm thinking of using the TC420 controller as it has plenty of channels to do what I'm wanting and is pretty cheap. I'm also somewhat familiar since I have one running a pre built led fixture that I purchased last year.

Power Supply/Drivers and wiring it all together:

This is where I'm lost. Haha, yeah, I know, pretty early on in the process. I have read and read and read, but of course every situation is different from the next and as a novice in this area, it's very difficult to know which way to go.. I have read all about constant current vs constant voltage and wiring in parallel vs wiring in series. I feel like I have a pretty ok grasp of the vocabulary at least.

I'm assuming that for the 2 Strips, I could wire them in series and run them with a constant current driver like a Meanwell LDD-1000. The data sheet also shows that these can run at 700mA, but that's listed as a minimum...

I'm not sure what the best way would be to wire up the individual 1W SMDs. I'm also not sure if they're needed. Perhaps an additional 5000K EB Strip would be sufficient for what I'm trying to achieve. I just can't help but feel I'd be missing out on the ability to get a little cooler noon day light.

If anyone has read this far, Thanks! And thanks in advance for any suggestions or hints to get me moving in the right direction.

 

[JGates]

So continuing to think this through;

If I did create a strip using the 1W SMD lights...

Not sure the best way to approach it. If I were to wire them in series, what would I need to limit the current to only 100mA? Then at only 10 LEDs, I would be up to 89V. So clearly with this strategy, I would need something like several "mini" drivers for just a handful of these 1W LEDs.

Just wondering if there's a better solution.

 

[jeffkrol]

So continuing to think this through;

If I did create a strip using the 1W SMD lights...

Not sure the best way to approach it. If I were to wire them in series, what would I need to limit the current to only 100mA? Then at only 10 LEDs, I would be up to 89V. So clearly with this strategy, I would need something like several "mini" drivers for just a handful of these 1W LEDs.

Just wondering if there's a better solution.

First you would need to reflow the smd's onto a circuit board w/ the correct footprint for the pads.
Each is 3.5x2.8mm's.

Can't see those working well for most people.


Next, light height off the top. Is important choosing lenses or no lenses.


but to start..let's go outside the box and add a base of a high PAR strip:
https://www.stevesleds.com/Full-Spectrum-Array-FSA-80-up-LED-200W_p_368.html


48V to power it is a bit of an issue but you can get over it.
Power supply needs to be capable of outputting 51-52V if using an Ldd-h(W) driver.
Steves recommends 2000mA driver but using a LDD-1500H(w) should be "good enough"

$50

That's 72W per strip. Since you won't be CO2 limited and you will be able to dim you should be good to go.
Power supply (actual wattage needs to be calculated later)
LRS-200-48
Can be 'tweaked" to 52.8V w/ pot on the power supply.
Really close but the lower current should pull the voltage need down a bit.
https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed
$28

All you need to add is some "sunset" diodes..


Pair it w/ a 3000k Thrive and same LDD (or less, you'll prob. dim it anyways and let the 6500k do the heavy lifting)
$12

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...MxIAQgBoCibMAMgAYArJQEAtGAGYBAZSYCFMAMLLJtOkA
31W @ 1500mA.. Suggest going down to 1A at most, just to lower heat load. Can always replace it for $8..

you can run 2 in series if you want. The Steves you can't obviously.


If you want you can just sandwich a row of "color of your choice" 3W star led's in-between the 2 boards.
You are going to need a pretty decent heat sink.


Soo 100W for about $100 plus heat sink ect..


a bit pricey and probably overkill but a general idea.
There are cheaper ways.



Now about your planned mounting height.

 

[jeffkrol]

More err "advanced" array..

You have 5 channels on your tc..
Only need a 36V power supply.

About 65W on full..