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Dead berried shrimp :(

1974 Views 21 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  acitydweller
Boy this is discouraging, It seems like everytime an rcs gets pregnant recently its been dying. :icon_frow
Today I noticed that one of my berried RCS was dead, and it must have only gotten pregnant this morning because I didn't see any berried last night. This has been the second death I have seen since starting a treatment of Melafix last Sunday for what I believe to be a bacterial infection. Half of today's dead shrimp was also a blackish-bluish color; Is that something to be concerned about? I'm not sure if the melafix is working or if there's something else killing them?

Thanks,
Michael
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What are your water parameters? Do you have plenty of flow in the tank or is the water stagnant in certain parts of the tank?
I can get the current parameters in a few hours, but usually the tank has no ammonia or nitrites, and very little nitrates. pH is usually a little high at 8-8.1, and TDS is around 215.
There is a lot of water flow at the top of the tank but i'm not sure if there is alot at the bottom.
Just curious about your GH, not that I know the answer to your problem, but I would like to ask you to test that too fr the record.

Thanks.
Ya pejerrey, I can test that too when I get home, I have a kit for that
Hey everyone, sorry I didn't get these sooner but i've been pretty busy. Also, the death of another shrimp today made me worried.

pH=7.89
TDS=233
Ammonia=0ppm
NO2-=0ppm
NO3-=0ppm
Cu+=0ppm
GH=53.7ppm
KH=35.8ppm
PO43-=.5ppm
Try raising your gh to at least 6 . How long have you had your tank?
The tank's been up for at least 6 months, how do you raise GH?
The tank's been up for at least 6 months, how do you raise GH?
Use a remineralizer, like Shirakura Ca+ or Fluval mineral supplement.
mark at least 100ppm of gh (6dGH) that is the only parameter that is showing wrong.
I have used Seachem Equilibrium, Fluval Mineral, Mosura mineral plus.
They all do the same but equilibrium has some traces like Fe and also some K, which is why I was using it, for the plants. Its also taboo to use it, so you're better off using fluval that is way cheaper than mosura or shirakura I think.

H4n has this products.
I suggest lowering your ph into 7-7.4. More usable oxygen and amino acid bonding happening in the lower ph regions as recommended by a close friend. Key factors for inverts. If berrying mommas are dying, it could also imply they are lacking calcium as many first timer mommas would drop their eggs in the onset of molting. If they are dying still clutching onto heir eggs, this is not good. Pregnant shrimp are under the most stress so they are also the most vulnerable, second only to mid molt and post molt stages.

Just read the black bluish comment. Has the water been tested for heavy metals. If left untreated, it accumulates in the lower regions of the tank likely affecting the weakest shrimp first, e.g. Berried mommas, elderly shrimp, handicapped shrimp, etc.... Basically any shrimp you would give a seat to on a shrimp bus or train.

Prime neutralizes the toxicity of heavy metals incase you weren't using this already.
Thanks for all the helpful information everyone! I'll try and get fluval mineral supplement today.

Acitydweller, about the heavy metals, recently I havn't been using any water conditioner because I was told aging your water gave you the same benifits. Should I start using prime?
You can also use crushed coral in your filter. Much cheaper than the mineral supplements.

How often are you doing WCs? And how large are they? Maybe you're stressing the shrimp with WCs.

pH at 7.8 is fine. That's what mine are at and they're thriving. And if yours have been living in 8+ for this long without a problem, then I wouldn't go monkeying with the pH, especially now while your shrimp are stressed.

Add an airstone to improve oxygenation. I have mine at the very top of the water so as not to cause too much current.

-Lisa
How are you measuring your levels to the tenth??
Thanks for all the helpful information everyone! I'll try and get fluval mineral supplement today.

Acitydweller, about the heavy metals, recently I havn't been using any water conditioner because I was told aging your water gave you the same benifits. Should I start using prime?
Aged water is an old school practice in the hobby however it does not address anything other than chlorine. If your local water treatment facility uses chloramine to treat your water so that it's drinkable, you will want to use a water conditioner to break the bond of chloramine, which inhibits the proper intake of oxygen in fish and other aquatic life (except plants). If they use chlorine, the best thing to do is age (let it sit) the water from the tap for a few days. Chlorine will evaporate in that amount of time. Chloramine will not no matter how long you age the water. this also goes for heavy metals and all other nasties we find in water that make up TDS.

Product Description
Prime® is the complete and concentrated conditioner for both fresh and salt water. Prime® removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Prime® converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tank’s biofilter. Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime® detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them. It will also detoxify any heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels. Prime® also promotes the production and regeneration of the natural slime coat. Prime® is non-acidic and will not impact pH. Prime® will not overactivate skimmers. Use at start-up and whenever adding or replacing water.

Why It's Different


Nearly all companies manufacture a product that removes chlorine. None of those, however, can compare in quality, concentration, or effectiveness to Seachem’s flagship product: Prime®. Prime® is the second most concentrated dechlorinator on the market after our own aquavitro alpha™. A single 100 mL bottle will treat 1000 US gallons of tap water. Prime® will remove both chlorine and chloramines from municipal water supplies.

Prime® also contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic. It is very important to understand how those two functions work together. All dechlorinators operate through a chemical process known as reduction. In this process, toxic dissolved chlorine gas (Cl2) is converted into non-toxic chloride ions (Cl-). The reduction process also breaks the bonds between chlorine and nitrogen atoms in the chloramine molecule (NH2Cl), freeing the chlorine atoms and replacing them with hydrogen (H) to create ammonia (NH3).
Typically, dechlorinators stop there, leaving an aquarium full of toxic ammonia! Seachem takes the necessary next step by including an ammonia binder to detoxify the ammonia produced in the reduction process.

Be very careful when purchasing water conditioners. If your municipality includes chloramines in the water supplies, a standard sodium thiosulfate dechlorinator is not enough. Prime® promotes the natural production and restoration of the slime coat rather than relying on artificial or non-native slime compounds. A further bonus for the reef hobbyist—Prime® will not overactivate protein skimmers.

Source: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html

When you use prime, you will notice a strong sulfur smell. this is normal per the description above.

regarding your PH, go with either what the seller water parameters were, or by what is ideal for the breed. Other people may have success with a certain water parameter but they also may not be disclosing what else they are or arent aware of.

Cherry Shrimp water guidelines from Shrimpkeeping.com

Cherry Shrimp
PH: 6.4 - 7.6
KH: 0 - 10
GH: 4 - 14
TDS: 80 - 200
Water temp: 18 - 23
Always aim high and shoot for the stars. Dont settle for what others have done or have gotten away with.

Use a remineralizer, like Shirakura Ca+ or Fluval mineral supplement.
+1 i concur with Overgrowth. i have used both with great success. FMS is more readily available while Shirakura is offered by some of our beloved sellers on Sns. I happily purchased mine from Morphadalus.
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You can also use crushed coral in your filter. Much cheaper than the mineral supplements.

How often are you doing WCs? And how large are they? Maybe you're stressing the shrimp with WCs.

pH at 7.8 is fine. That's what mine are at and they're thriving. And if yours have been living in 8+ for this long without a problem, then I wouldn't go monkeying with the pH, especially now while your shrimp are stressed.

Add an airstone to improve oxygenation. I have mine at the very top of the water so as not to cause too much current.

-Lisa
If its recommended not to alter PH, then it would seem this post begin and ends in contradiction. Crushed coral will increase TDS however it is primarily used to raise PH.

TDS can be raised safely without effect on KH nor PH as per Overgrowth.
Should I put prime into the tank itself, enough to treat the whole 10 gallons? Or should I do a water change with prime (I just did a water change 2 days ago)?
Also, I got the fluval mineral supplement, and I'm not sure if dGH and GH are the same thing?
Our LFS advised not to add Prime directly into tanks as it would starve or negatively affect the existing beneficial bacteria in the tank. I suppose that in itself makes some sense. The bottle itself doesnt suggest doing so but also doesn't advise against it either. YMMV so use your own judgement here.

With that said, i normally pretreat new tap water with Prime prior to a water change.

When measuring the water parameters for shrimp, look at Gh/KH/PH / TDS and temps as your key indicators. the first three are closely related. Google this if you need more clarity here. dGH represents the degree of general hardness. you normally would divid PPM by 17.86 to get the degree measure. This is normally unnecessary but it all depends on your testing tools.

In hindsight, Fluval neglected to include a dropper on their mineral supplement product. try to get one from your local pharmacist. Target gave me a bunch of syringes which work equally well. note how many drops it takes to raise the GH to your desired level. it will make your life much easier going forward.
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So I just did a 50% water change and used prime with the new water to try and get rid of heavy metals. I checked the dGH after I finished just incase it changed but it was still 3.
Next I added 12.5mL of Fluval Mineral Supplement and that made the dGH go up to 7. I hope this is good enough for rcs.
I have 2 pregnant shrimp alive right now so i'll let you guys know how they do. Thanks for all of the information all of you gave me, it is much appreciated!

-Mike
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