Give it a day or so to saturate and the air should clear out. In through the top and out the bottom, looks like a nice job building it. If you can't stand waiting manipulate the reactor as much as the hose allows and purge the air.
That's actually an interesting perspective. My assumption was that the diffuser would produce smaller bubbles which would make it easier/faster to diffuse the bubbles. Perhaps the tiny bubbles are much less buoyant so they just drift along with the water rather than churning away at the top of the reactor.Tilting is definitely helpful for clearing air or excess CO2.
Your reactor is not set up like a stock Rex reactor which probably explains why it is working the way it is. Unless he has changed the design since I built mine the CO2 is supposed to enter through the side of the PVC tube a few inches below the top. That way the bubbles are immediately rising against the inflow. You have already diffused the CO2 and it is entering through the top as mist, the mist is flowing with the incoming water. I don't think you are going to get the same churning affect this way. The bubbles are so small when they enter that they don't have the same buoyancy as larger bubbles coming through the side would so instead of rising they are slowly getting pushed down. Almost working more like a delayed misting effect.
Are you monitoring the levels in the tank with a drop checker and getting the same response (response time too)?
The reactor has been silent and I got all the air out. Now it's just the diffuser and slightly less than 1 bubble/second. There are fewer bubbles than with the boyu but just barely. I can look into the clear pvc and see tiny bubbles swirling steadily down the tube. It does seem like larger bubbles go forcefully to the surface so maybe I will put a hose on the side as in the original designer.haha...seems like Im stalking you
..but you just need to wait it out...your reactor will eventually be silent when the bubble dissolves
and and its working correctly...you want a max fluid velocity of ~25cm/s....you have ~8cm/s so youre good to go
Tilting is definitely helpful for clearing air or excess CO2.
Your reactor is not set up like a stock Rex reactor which probably explains why it is working the way it is. Unless he has changed the design since I built mine the CO2 is supposed to enter through the side of the PVC tube a few inches below the top. That way the bubbles are immediately rising against the inflow. You have already diffused the CO2 and it is entering through the top as mist, the mist is flowing with the incoming water. I don't think you are going to get the same churning affect this way. The bubbles are so small when they enter that they don't have the same buoyancy as larger bubbles coming through the side would so instead of rising they are slowly getting pushed down. Almost working more like a delayed misting effect.
Are you monitoring the levels in the tank with a drop checker and getting the same response (response time too)?
The reactor has been silent and I got all the air out. Now it's just the diffuser and slightly less than 1 bubble/second. There are fewer bubbles than with the boyu but just barely. I can look into the clear pvc and see tiny bubbles swirling steadily down the tube. It does seem like larger bubbles go forcefully to the surface so maybe I will put a hose on the side as in the original designer.
In the pic you posted on that other thread your setup was essentially like mine (boyu/waterplant then rg reactor). Do you get bubbles? What is the filter gph and tank site?
I know, right?!Thanks for that information, much of which I didn't understand.
I agree. I think if I clamp the tube and very gently drill the hole and screw a hose barb elbow in there it would be fine. I can use a bit of silicon/glue to make it extra secure and try again. The question is, will that improve the function of the reactor?i think you can still mod this reactor to have the co2 line on the side. you just need to drill a hole that is smaller than the tubing, cut the tubing line so that it is pointy and push it in so that it ends up in the middle of the shaft.
If you drill a hole you would have to take off the connection you have going, that might have been obvious but just making sure. Once you drill the hole, with a drill bit 1-2 sizes down from the tubing, insert and you can add silicone on the outside. As captain said, some prefer to place the tubing a little lower than conventional but thats your call. With your situation I dont think anyone can tell you what will work and what wont but apparently this current set up isnt working, so why not switch it up? I honestly think its your inline diffuser but i could be wrongI agree. I think if I clamp the tube and very gently drill the hole and screw a hose barb elbow in there it would be fine. I can use a bit of silicon/glue to make it extra secure and try again. The question is, will that improve the function of the reactor?![]()
My filter is pretty clean, and I intend to keep it that way...something that just occured to me
when was the last time you cleaned your filter? maybe your filter is very clean so you have very good output GPH...I havent cleaned mine in a few months so reduced flow = more efficient reactor??
It all really depends on what, exactly, happens in the reactor.If you drill a hole you would have to take off the connection you have going, that might have been obvious but just making sure. Once you drill the hole, with a drill bit 1-2 sizes down from the tubing, insert and you can add silicone on the outside. As captain said, some prefer to place the tubing a little lower than conventional but thats your call. With your situation I dont think anyone can tell you what will work and what wont but apparently this current set up isnt working, so why not switch it up? I honestly think its your inline diffuser but i could be wrong