The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I keep having a problem with cyano blooming in my tank, covering my substrate, my plants and my driftwood.

If it IS from dead-spots, how do I fix this without spending a lot of money?

I have a 46G bowfront tank with a 70G cannister filter. I do have real plants, but it's not stocked like most planted tanks, a 96W light, and no CO2. I only have 6 xray tetras, 1 german ram, 3 ottos, and 1 frog. I had some others, but it seems that every other month, one fish dies. The last one was my E-nose. I'm wondering if it's due to the cyano? They never seem to die with a real reason.


Also, I checked my Ammonia and Nitrates and they were both zero (nitrates, possibly higher) and this was a check after 24 hours of removing all the cyano I could and doing a 30% water change. Normally, when checking, my A is always zero, but the Nitrates are almost always 20-40. I figured the nitrates being zero was due to removing the blue-green algae, but that seems kinda backwards to me.

I'm 99.9% certain I did not err in my testing. I will test again tomorrow though.

Thanks for any help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,423 Posts
go to Dr.s foster and smith and order some erythromycin...or you can spend a boat load on some Maracyn I (same drug). That will kill the cyanobacteria...you'll need about 3 days to a week to kill it (or search "black out"). Personally, I just like to kill the beast.

The antibacteria will not kill your plants. Just to a major water change after you've killed it all.

Check your tap water nitrates. No ammonia is good. Its possible the cyanobacteria could be leading to the deaths, but that's speculation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,423 Posts
wouldn't the antibacterial kill the good bacteria in the substrate as well?
no...I'm by no means a microbiologist (plant ecologist), but I recall it targets the other type (gram neg or gram pos...can't remember)...but one is the cyano, the other is the beneficial. BUT, if you have enough plants in there in the first place, there really is no need for any of the "beneficial" bacteria.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
that is interesting, about not needing beneficial bacteria if there are enough plants. I've never heard that.

I did read about doing half of the dose to lower risk of killing good bacteria.

My question is this...

I've already done the black out twice, so I know that whatever is starting it, is still there.

If I do the treatment, will it come back? Or is it gone for good?

Thanks guys for all the advice!!!!! This stuff is driving me batty and it stinks so bad!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,423 Posts
that is interesting, about not needing beneficial bacteria if there are enough plants. I've never heard that.

I did read about doing half of the dose to lower risk of killing good bacteria.

My question is this...

I've already done the black out twice, so I know that whatever is starting it, is still there.

If I do the treatment, will it come back? Or is it gone for good?

Thanks guys for all the advice!!!!! This stuff is driving me batty and it stinks so bad!
Don't quote me on the killiing all the beneficial bacteria stuff. Half strength will be fine. I'm not sure if it will ever come back, but my GF used it in her tank and it got rid of it for good...I believe there are some others on this board that have used this treatment with success as well.

Re: no need for beneficial bacteria if there are enough plants...the reason why many of us do not do fishless cycling. The plants themselves, if they are properly fed and have adequate light, will take care of the nitrogen cycle. The "beneficial" bacteria are really only for "standard" tanks...not planted per se. A lot of us don't even have any bacteria housing noodle-stuff in our filters...just pads and floss :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cool georgiadawgger,

thanks for the help.

I think I will try that antibacterial stuff and see what happens. Hopefully it will be gone for good, but I also read somewhere else that if you don't resolve the problem that is causing it, it will keep coming back. And I don't know what my problem is yet. Sooooooo.... guess I will see!

thanks!
Crissy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,423 Posts
cool georgiadawgger,

thanks for the help.

I think I will try that antibacterial stuff and see what happens. Hopefully it will be gone for good, but I also read somewhere else that if you don't resolve the problem that is causing it, it will keep coming back. And I don't know what my problem is yet. Sooooooo.... guess I will see!

thanks!
Crissy
You're absolutely right to tackle the root cause...take a step back while you are dosing the meds and see what may be out of whack. Test your tap water after letting it sit out overnight for all the key stuff (pH, kH, NO3, etc) and re-assess your dosing schedule. Many times, it takes a bit of tweaking to get things back on track. Be patient and good luck! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks georgiadawger and mistergreen,

I don't think of myself as being a stupid person, but sometimes this stuff is just too complicated, or their is just too much different information that I feel overwhelmed. I wish I could just have someone come over, and look at my tank, and then tell me what to do! Oh well.

I have the reg. tube tests, with the Amonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and Ph, then I have another test kit for the KH and Gh. But I don't know what NO3 is, and any others I might need. Could you tell me specifically Georgiadawger? Thank you.


On the blackout, I also covered the tank with a blanket, so that no light was entering the tank. I was suprised though that my plants were still okay, I figured they'd all be dead.

After clearing out all that stuff a couple days ago, this stuff is coming back with a vengeance! ;) I can tell a noticeable change, or growth, just in a day. Maybe even almost doubling in size in some areas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Gh was 140 that's the General Hardness, and it said it is in the Moderately Hard category.

kH was 70 which is Carbonate hardness, and it's says 20-80 is normally associated with a low pH

this is pretty close to last time which was 120 and 60 respectively. Did that before the BG algae ever showed up. When I first started tank, it was 160 and 110, so I added two peices of driftwood- that was a year ago.

let me know if I should check something else, thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
NO3 is Nitrate.

Not to sound demeaning or anything, but are you sure you are following the directions on the AP Test Kit for Nitrates? Add 1, shake for 30 seconds, add 2, shake for 1 min, wait to develop? I've heard of many people getting false readings of 0 from that kit if they skip the shaking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
MarkP, don't worry about sounding demeaning.

I've done this test a million times. When I first started tank a year ago, I did it like every week and then every month for most of the year. So I know I'm not doing it wrong. Could it have expired? Surely not in a years time though.

Thanks for clarifying the NO3. Totally didn't know that was Nitrates.

I'm wondering, if maybe since I waiting almost 24 hours to test after I removed and cleaned the tank out, that the cyano was already building back up, therefore giving me a nearly zero NO3 reading.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
439 Posts
go to Dr.s foster and smith and order some erythromycin...or you can spend a boat load on some Maracyn I (same drug). QUOTE]

Does anyone know if erythromycin or Maracyn will hurt/injure/damage/kill scaleless fish??? i.e. Dwarf Puffers, Ghosts, Eels, etc.???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm really starting to think that using this product won't do me any good because it will just come back again, because I don't know what the cause is.

I want to get rid of this stuff for good, and I'm reading peoples experience with this drug, and that it comes back later.

If it is due to deadspots, what do I get to fix that? I really didn't want my whole tank full of currents because I have a ADF and wanted to keep it fairly calm for her.

If it is from something else, well, how do I know for sure?

thanks ya'all
 

·
Children Boogie
Joined
·
16,743 Posts
Does anyone know if erythromycin or Maracyn will hurt/injure/damage/kill scaleless fish??? i.e. Dwarf Puffers, Ghosts, Eels, etc.???
it should be fine... it's an antibiotic with no heavy metals... I'm using it right now and I have a few loaches. If they die, i'll let you know.


and to crissy.... get rid of the cyano, then do a 50% water change... and start the tank back up slowly with low ferts + lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Mistergreen,

My plan was to do a lowlight tank with plants for my fish. I didn't want a tank filled with plants, just more to accent it all.

So, I new that I needed to upgrade my cheapo light that came with the tank, and I got a 96compact. I don't do CO2, and the only additive I've put in the tank is iron, and I've only done that twice the last half of the year.
The substrate is just aquarium gravel.

Should I be fertilizing? and what would I use?

I know things all need to be at the right levels, otherwise it will cause blooms of algae, but I'm not sure what I really need.

Thanks for your assistance!
 

·
Children Boogie
Joined
·
16,743 Posts
crissy,
oh, you should have told us your setup in the beginning... I think your root cause is just that you leave your light's on too long... keep it under 9 hours... and just do more water changes...

I thought you have 2.5 wpg lights, and co2, and ferts...

just manually remove all the BGA (cyano)... take the plants and shake the BGA loose in a bucket of water, Same for the gravel, and side of the walls.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top