1 vertical in the center would be plenty in my opinion. Just so the front bar wouldn't bend slightly and potentially crack the tank.
Custom Build Steel Frame 75 Gallon
Will support a 75 gallon rimless tank. Width and depth match tank dimensions. Steel is 11 gauge one inch tube. Will put a wood panel on top of steel and between the wood and glass I will layer on some 1/2 inch thick neoprene foam material. The steel frame is level and I will put some spare puzzle mats underneath a rug beneath it all.
The center two struts (back) each have 3 holes drilled with equal spacing. Will be painted but before I put primer on any thoughts on whether front struts are necessary? Either just one in the center or two?
The center two struts (back) each have 3 holes drilled with equal spacing. Will be painted but before I put primer on any thoughts on whether front struts are necessary? Either just one in the center or two?
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I think going without any on a four foot tank would be fine. If you're going for a large opening and want more strength you could add to the corners like this:
https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/threads/steel-aquarium-stands.284465/
11 gauge - whoa! That's a heck of a sturdy chunk of steel. I built my stand for the 50 using 16 gauge 1.5" and I thought that was overkill. 
I think you're going to be fine without the front brace. I added a 3/4" sheet of plywood along with a 1/8" rubber mat to ensure I had a level surfaced for my acrylic tank.
How are you planing on leveling once it's in place? I built feet with a captive nut welded inside to use leveling feet. I found that I needed almost 3/4" of leveling front to back in my older house. Here's where I ended up with mine (pardon the wiring mess):
I think you're going to be fine without the front brace. I added a 3/4" sheet of plywood along with a 1/8" rubber mat to ensure I had a level surfaced for my acrylic tank.How are you planing on leveling once it's in place? I built feet with a captive nut welded inside to use leveling feet. I found that I needed almost 3/4" of leveling front to back in my older house. Here's where I ended up with mine (pardon the wiring mess):
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Will have some kind of panel in between steel and glass. Thinking 3/4 inch plywood right now. Even if it isn't necessary I feel compelled to do it.
Bump:
Leveling will be a combination. I have spare puzzle mats that will go directly on my hardwood floor and a rug will cover that up. On top of the steel I will put some kind of panel, maybe 3/4 inch plywood. On top of the plywood I have rolls of 1/2 inch thick neoprene foam material to cut. If all that together does not level it out I'll resort to shimming the stand (not the tank).11 gauge - whoa! That's a heck of a sturdy chunk of steel. I built my stand for the 50 using 16 gauge 1.5" and I thought that was overkill.
How are you planing on leveling once it's in place? I built feet with a captive nut welded inside to use leveling feet. I found that I needed almost 3/4" of leveling front to back in my older house. Here's where I ended up with mine (pardon the wiring mess):
Nice setup. I like how the equipment is exposed but cleanly organized.
Thanks everyone for the replies. I asked a friend of mine who asked a friend of his (Math professor) and he suggested I shouldn't worry unless I'm putting more than 2500 lbs on it. Assuming the welding is tight of course. Will be moving forward with the stand as is, and I'll learn how to do the physics equations myself next time.
There will be a shelf in the middle. I have a nice piece of beveled glass from an old coffee table that'll be affixed to the rear center struts. The welder drilled holes on those two struts and made two brackets I'll use to support it along with a canopy that I'll hang lights from.
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