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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 10 gallon CRS tank and I've yet to have any breeding. Tank was started on 10/22/20. Shrimp were added on 2/10/21 and also on 5/28/21. I seem to have around 20.

I've lost some due to jumping (open top) and also had some random deaths here and there.

All my water parameters seem to be in range.
Temp 70-71 F
Ph 6.4
Tds 93
Gh 5
Kh 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

I'm using salty shrimp gh+ I do a wc every 2 weeks incoming tds is 89 ppm at gh5. Which I drip over half the day ( changing 2 gallons). This really barely changes TDS.

I'm feeding shrimp king complete,mineral, protein, snowpop evey couple days and also bacter AE now daily at the amount of half the size of a grain of rice.

I've increases feeding to ever 2 days to see if that would help.
I also been adding spinach 2 times this week. Tank also had IAL and a couple alder cones.

What am I doing wrong here?
 

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I do not know the answer but my situation is similar to yours so; stop using bacter ae. I am only saying that because it is not necessary. I used to use it then kind of used it and then not at all and breeding rate was never effected. I can’t speak to what others say about it but I find it not to be needed.

I start with di water and also use salty shrimp gh+ but I raise my tds to 120 and maintain 120-140. Kh 0 Gh 6.5-7 (api liquid test, starts turning slight green at 6 then full green at 7).

I have also found more success when using a filter than not. I keep 12 shrimp tanks currently and only my Caridina tanks use filters. Probably just in my head but it’s what works for me.


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Ur using tap??!
I had thought ro, rodi plus salty shrimp gh+ got to maybe around tds 120ppm

Are u using co2? The slight acidity helps but ur ph seems fine and soil u using should provide

Stop feeding so much, they can all live off the biofilm which needs to be established especially for the babies

Bacter ae, I've read a lot not to use it but havent seen negative from myself but the info out there makes me second guess using it. I think the factor here is not to overdose it

Have u ever seen one ur females berried?

I dont know answer just bit info to ponder
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have R.O DI water then added salty shrimp I add 2.36g per 5 gallons. ( This give me 89 tds on my meter) 5 gh on api test.

Filter dual sponge.

I was feeding 1 to 2 times a week at about 2 or 3 mm pieces of food. I was doing bacter 1 or twice a week (-) amount in the spoon.

Ive noticed shrimp seem more active just after adding bacter AE. I've tried not using it and now using it more just trying different things.

If we want to get really specific on how often I'm feeding I've kept logs for the last 2 months. If that info will help I'll post it.

No never seen any shrimp carrying eggs. My only other shrimp experience was with RCS which bred almost immediately it seemed.

I add no fertilizers or CO2 or excel.
 

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Can you tell if any of them are or have been berried? They will only have babies once they are berried and molt. The eggs get fertilized right after molting. Other than that, stress can case them to hold off on reproducing. Are there any other inhabitants in the tank?

I only keep Neos so I'm guessing CRS behave similar...
 

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"If we want to get really specific on how often I'm feeding I've kept logs for the last 2 months. If that info will help I'll post it."

No, no need. My bad on overfeeding, if they're going for it, then forego.
My guess is biofilm, looking at pics the tank seems sterile, lack algae, super clean, shrimp like the clean waters but benefit from the stuff we dont see. But I dont see how females arent getting berried, that's main question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
"If we want to get really specific on how often I'm feeding I've kept logs for the last 2 months. If that info will help I'll post it."

No, no need. My bad on overfeeding, if they're going for it, then forego.
My guess is biofilm, looking at pics the tank seems sterile, lack algae, super clean, shrimp like the clean waters but benefit from the stuff we dont see. But I dont see how females arent getting berried, that's main question.
I only clean 1 side of the glass each WC other than that I don't clear anything.

I'll add a pic of entire tank.
Can you tell if any of them are or have been berried? They will only have babies once they are berried and molt. The eggs get fertilized right after molting. Other than that, stress can case them to hold off on reproducing. Are there any other inhabitants in the tank?

I only keep Neos so I'm guessing CRS behave similar...
Just CRS in the tank.
Yeah haven't seen eggs been looking.
 

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Bacter AE is a no-go in my book. Seems pretty much every newcomer to the shrimp hobby having issues is using it. It's anecdotal but if all the signs seem to point in one direction? It's likely problematic. As others have mentioned, it's not necessary. I'm not entirely sure where people are being nudged into using that product but suspect it's YouTube and Instagram?

Some tips:

Remove the heater. Drop your temperature a couple degrees. Try to get closer to 68 if you can. I like to use small computer fans, as they tend to work better than other solutions.

Maybe bump that TDS up to 120 or so. You could go to 100 or 110 with SaltShrimp GH+ if that makes you feel more comfortable. I generally aim for somewhere between 110 and 120 in my Amazonia tanks.

Do water changes every week. That'll cause some stimulation. It's especially helpful to induce breeding during seasonal changes.

Feed 2-3 times per week and alternate what you feed. Focus on a diet of veggies. They'll get enough protein from things growing in the tank. Though, occasional protein feeding (I usually feed it about once per month, depending upon the tank) is fine. Out of years of habit, I feed on a schedule like this with most of my tanks: Feed. Wait 2 days. Feed. Wait 3 days. Feed. Wait 2 days. Feed. Wait 3 days. Rinse, repeat. A couple of my tanks get fed more frequently but that's really not the norm and I don't recommend it. I just have some that are overstocked with shrimp.

Some of your moss looks like it's browning. That's likely do to a lack of flow, as you have good lighting and your temps aren't too high for moss. Is there a way for you to place it in a higher flow area or to increase the flow in your tank a bit?

Edit: if it were me, I'd also dose a little bit of fertilizer every once in a while. Maybe a bit of Flourish. That'll help your floaters and your moss. Maybe at 1/4 to 1/3 the manufacturer suggested dose because you don't have a ton of plants. Maybe once per week or so. With more moss, you'll have happier shrimp and more grazing ground for lil bebes. ("bebes" needs to be read in the voice of Moira Rose)
 

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"Bacter AE is a no-go in my book. Seems pretty much every newcomer to the shrimp hobby having issues is using it. It's anecdotal but if all the signs seem to point in one direction? It's likely problematic. As others have mentioned, it's not necessary. I'm not entirely sure where people are being nudged into using that product but suspect it's YouTube and Instagram?"

I got the recommendation from flipaquatics website saying they had increase baby survival rate or something

Could it be this bacteria is destroying decimating other beneficial bacteria?
 

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I got the recommendation from flipaquatics website saying they had increase baby survival rate or something

Could it be this bacteria is destroying decimating other beneficial bacteria?
I've never seen any evidence that there's an increase in baby survival. Not even in my own testing. Only specious claims from a few people with a tendency to make wild claims about certain brands being required for successful shrimp keeping. (We know fully well that one doesn't need anything special or any specially-branded product.) That's anecdotal, of course, but a perusal of this forum is proof enough in my opinion. The average shrimp keeper will probably yield more young without it than with when they have a well-established tank and healthy environment for shrimp. I've seen tens of thousands through the years have great success without it. Everyone from experienced shrimpers like me to absolute newcomers. I think they're just trying to move more products and that's unfortunate.

Don't think it's destroying other bacteria but it's likely causing issues with oxygenation and fouling of water because the manufacturer's instructions are so vague. I think even their tiniest recommended dose is about 50 times too much. But I also don't think the addition of their claimed ingredients are at all necessary. These are the ingredients they claim are in the product: Amino acids, polysaccarides, xylanase, glucanase, amylase, protease, hemicellulase, Bacillus subtilis, Pediococcus acidilactici (Lactobacillus). Good in theory but not in practice for the average shrimper.

...

I'd bet OP's tank is just beginning to hit its stride and within a few months, they'll starting seeing shrimplets everywhere. Sometimes it just takes a while for things to settle in.

And a note about the 'tips' I offered in a previous post above: they're just tips. Folks should give them a try but only if they want. Keep things simple. They usually work for me even if every tank is slightly different or its needs unique. I've been doing this for three decades and still wouldn't call myself an expert. But I know my methods can be helpful in some regard. Simplicity and stability are the real secrets (ha, secrets) to successful shrimping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bacter AE is a no-go in my book. Seems pretty much every newcomer to the shrimp hobby having issues is using it. It's anecdotal but if all the signs seem to point in one direction? It's likely problematic. As others have mentioned, it's not necessary. I'm not entirely sure where people are being nudged into using that product but suspect it's YouTube and Instagram?

Some tips:

Remove the heater. Drop your temperature a couple degrees. Try to get closer to 68 if you can. I like to use small computer fans, as they tend to work better than other solutions.

Maybe bump that TDS up to 120 or so. You could go to 100 or 110 with SaltShrimp GH+ if that makes you feel more comfortable. I generally aim for somewhere between 110 and 120 in my Amazonia tanks.

Do water changes every week. That'll cause some stimulation. It's especially helpful to induce breeding during seasonal changes.

Feed 2-3 times per week and alternate what you feed. Focus on a diet of veggies. They'll get enough protein from things growing in the tank. Though, occasional protein feeding (I usually feed it about once per month, depending upon the tank) is fine. Out of years of habit, I feed on a schedule like this with most of my tanks: Feed. Wait 2 days. Feed. Wait 3 days. Feed. Wait 2 days. Feed. Wait 3 days. Rinse, repeat. A couple of my tanks get fed more frequently but that's really not the norm and I don't recommend it. I just have some that are overstocked with shrimp.

Some of your moss looks like it's browning. That's likely do to a lack of flow, as you have good lighting and your temps aren't too high for moss. Is there a way for you to place it in a higher flow area or to increase the flow in your tank a bit?

Edit: if it were me, I'd also dose a little bit of fertilizer every once in a while. Maybe a bit of Flourish. That'll help your floaters and your moss. Maybe at 1/4 to 1/3 the manufacturer suggested dose because you don't have a ton of plants. Maybe once per week or so. With more moss, you'll have happier shrimp and more grazing ground for lil bebes. ("bebes" needs to be read in the voice of Moira Rose)
I'll gives those a try. I'll start lowering my temp over time by a degree every couple days.

Are you saying increase the TDS at the result of increasing gh? To 100 to 110? With salty gh+

I'll stop using bacter to see if anything helps yes I've watch YouTube videos on it but also product reviews I also read. I'll trust you guys on this and give it a go.


Are the foods I have a variety enough? I rotate each ones I give them. They seem to enjoy the spinach.

I do have flourish comp I'll start with 1/4 ml?
 

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I'll gives those a try. I'll start lowering my temp over time by a degree every couple days.

Are you saying increase the TDS at the result of increasing gh? To 100 to 110? With salty gh+

I'll stop using bacter to see if anything helps yes I've watch YouTube videos on it but also product reviews I also read. I'll trust you guys on this and give it a go.


Are the foods I have a variety enough? I rotate each ones I give them. They seem to enjoy the spinach.

I do have flourish comp I'll start with 1/4 ml?
You could drop the temp all at once and be fine. I normally do it over the course of a couple hours. That'll also likely help the moss a bit.

You won't be increasing gH much at all. I'd aim for at least 100 when you do your next water change. Maybe keep your new water at 100 for a while and see how it goes? Most of my Caridina tanks are 5-6 gH. I like to be closer to 6 than 5 while not quite being all the way there.

I promise you don't need anything to increase baby survival. Just having a stable tank will suit you well.

Sounds like plenty of food variety to me. I feed my own foods, spinach, kale, zucchini every once in a while, fish flakes once a month or so, spirulina sometimes. So you definitely have enough variety. I also like to keep leaf litter (prefer almond leaves because they last longer) in my tanks at all times. Leaf litter is also great for vacations or when you're under the weather.

Not sure on the dosage for Flourish. I'd just try 1/4 to 1/3 of whatever the bottle recommends per your volume of water. You can probably dose more - just test a few hours after using it to see where your nitrates are and use that as a guide to determine if you've dosed too much. A little bit of nitrates won't be bad for your shrimp and the occasional light dosing is going to be great for moss & floaters. You've obviously got a solid understanding of planted tanking, so just trust your gut on that one. I keep my nitrates under 20, which is really easy with weekly water changes.

Speaking of water changes - my water change water is usually a couple degrees colder than my tanks. Not intentionally, that's just how it goes in my Brute trash cans. Shrimp behave as if they're experiencing an influx of fresh water from seasonal rains. Usually quite a bit of molting and breeding going on after water changes here.
 

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Try to lower the temperature and or simulate the rainy season by freezing straight RO and using a couple cubes instead of topping off with RO water when you have to top off. When I kept crystals they seemed to breed much better during the winter time. I'd agree with somewhatshocked that you should remove the heater. It's really not necessary for crystals or really anything similar such as Taiwan bee's, etc as they appreciate water on the cooler side unless your room is getting colder than 60 degrees regularly no need for it.
 

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I can't comment on ideal GH for these guys... I've seen anywhere from 3 GH to 6 GH.

Cooler water might help, or at least it may help when doing water changes.

I've never used Bacter AE and after hearing some bad experiences from people who have used it, I'd rather not take the chance. There are other bacteria products out there that haven't caused that amount of harm, if any at all.

From my own limited experience with YKK's, it could take longer to get them breeding than, say, Neos. My first group of YKK's were breeding well within 3 months, but my second group? I think it was around a year before they started pumping out babies.... there was some minor breeding before then, but not much. To be fair though, the second group was all juvies where-as the first group was mostly adults/young adults. They also came from different people.


As far as food goes.... I have no clue if this would help or not... but it has worked for Neos. When Neos aren't breeding and everything else seems fine, it's a good idea to keep it simple! Feed a vegetable or algae food twice a week (please look at labels! many "algae foods" are actually algae infused!) and a protein food (animal based) once a week. Once you get the breeding going, you can bump it up to 2 x 2 feedings for the foods, maybe even as much as 3 x 2 (more algae/vegetable matter than protein).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Try to lower the temperature and or simulate the rainy season by freezing straight RO and using a couple cubes instead of topping off with RO water when you have to top off. When I kept crystals they seemed to breed much better during the winter time. I'd agree with somewhatshocked that you should remove the heater. It's really not necessary for crystals or really anything similar such as Taiwan bee's, etc as they appreciate water on the cooler side unless your room is getting colder than 60 degrees regularly no need for it.
My fans been blowing since this afternoon and tank hasn't dropped below 69. That may be the coolest I can get it. House temp usually 76 this time of year as it's in the 100s here.

I can get some di water ice cubes going.

[/QUOTE]
I can't comment on ideal GH for these guys... I've seen anywhere from 3 GH to 6 GH.

Cooler water might help, or at least it may help when doing water changes.

I've never used Bacter AE and after hearing some bad experiences from people who have used it, I'd rather not take the chance. There are other bacteria products out there that haven't caused that amount of harm, if any at all.

From my own limited experience with YKK's, it could take longer to get them breeding than, say, Neos. My first group of YKK's were breeding well within 3 months, but my second group? I think it was around a year before they started pumping out babies.... there was some minor breeding before then, but not much. To be fair though, the second group was all juvies where-as the first group was mostly adults/young adults. They also came from different people.


As far as food goes.... I have no clue if this would help or not... but it has worked for Neos. When Neos aren't breeding and everything else seems fine, it's a good idea to keep it simple! Feed a vegetable or algae food twice a week (please look at labels! many "algae foods" are actually algae infused!) and a protein food (animal based) once a week. Once you get the breeding going, you can bump it up to 2 x 2 feedings for the foods, maybe even as much as 3 x 2 (more algae/vegetable matter than protein).
Foods that have spirulina for an algae? I see that in ingredients.
 

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My fans been blowing since this afternoon and tank hasn't dropped below 69. That may be the coolest I can get it. House temp usually 76 this time of year as it's in the 100s here.

I can get some di water ice cubes going.
That's a good temperature.

On the ice cube front: That's a good idea for top-offs on really hot days. But I also like to use RO/DI ice cubes on occasion to make my water change water a couple degrees cooler than the tank. Not all the time but every once in a while.

A good idea to keep some RO/DI frozen for power outage days or when the AC craps out. Comes in handy. (I also use RO for fancy bourbon ice cubes...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Try Whisky stones. I tried them and have never looked back. Saves good whisky getting watered down and works surprisingly well. ;)
I have those too but it's hard to beat a big cube of perfectly clear ice 😜
 
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