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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im in the process of slowly converting my reef tank to a planted tank for my first planted setup.
Just finished removing the coraline and tube worms from everything.

What I'm keeping:
  • Tank - 90gal 36x24x24 1" thick acrylic with external overflow (not HOB)
  • Lighting - Vertex sr900 led fixture
  • Flow - 2x Tunze 6055 (was planning to use 1 on a controller)
  • Return - Tunze 1073.040 (634GPH @ 0)
  • Controller - Neptune apex (does ph, temp, variable speed ports for tunze, power control, etc)
  • Heaters - 2x 250w Eheim Jager heaters
  • ATO - Tunze Osmolator 3155 (once you have an ATO you can never give it up)
  • RODI - my tap water is about 390ppm tds (tested with conduictivy probe)

What I need:
  • UV - was thinking of adding UV
  • New Sump - current sump will not work and a new sump will be roughly the same cost of a nice canister + a change of media
    • I have about 14L of Kaldness k1.
  • CO2 - I have PH control with a switched outlet from the apex
    • need an inline reactor, dual stage regulator and will pickup a bottle local
  • Test kits
  • Ferts

For substrate I decided to go with ecocomplete (160lbs), I had a 20% off + free shipping from petco & with the sale price on top it seemed like a deal. I do not want to deal with capped MTS so it came down to ecocomplete vs ada.

For the sump, im going to go with something similar to(haven't purchased yet):

I was going to keep the water at the blue line and can seal the bioball/kaldness area to be more or less air tight to reduce CO2 loss.
As well I wanted to add mesh screen filter socks (200 micron) to the drains for mechanical filtration.

I dont see CO2 loss being a large issue with the overflow dropping ~2" with no splashing, additionally im using a bean style setup with 3 drains so its silent with out causing flushhing/bubbling in the sump.


Had a few questions:
What are a few good options for inline reactors?
What test kits are the simpliest & most accurate to use? I was using Hanna colorimeters when it was a reef.
My tap water is high in TDS, I would like to get away from RODI if possible. What should I test for to see if this is posible?
How worth while is UV in a planted tank?
Will 12-14L (a little over half a cubic foot) of pure media be sufficent for a bio filter? I want to stay away from a canister filter if possible as I already have a tank with a overflow and the return pump.
what if anything should I put under the ecocomplete? light dusting of peat moss?


If any one has any feedback or ideas on what type of biotope would look nice in a 36x24x24 please comment!
 

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You have way too much flow for a planted tank. 15 to 20 times is pushing the max before all of your plants are laying on the substrate.

As long as your NO3 and PO4 are fairly low you should not have too much problem with your tap. If it gets too high and the EPA allows it to be up to 40ppm for NO3 and 4ppm for PO4 you will likely have algae problems. My TDS runs about 150 and I am having algae problems using tap water. I started using RODI and the algae problem has diminished quite a bit.

If you don't mind DIY Cerges reactors are a nice solution for CO2.

API liquid tests are functional and very simple.

The media sounds more than sufficient for bio filtration.
 

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Fresh Fish Freak
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24,403 Posts
Had a few questions:
What are a few good options for inline reactors?
What test kits are the simpliest & most accurate to use? I was using Hanna colorimeters when it was a reef.
My tap water is high in TDS, I would like to get away from RODI if possible. What should I test for to see if this is posible?
How worth while is UV in a planted tank?
Will 12-14L (a little over half a cubic foot) of pure media be sufficent for a bio filter? I want to stay away from a canister filter if possible as I already have a tank with a overflow and the return pump.
what if anything should I put under the ecocomplete? light dusting of peat moss?


If any one has any feedback or ideas on what type of biotope would look nice in a 36x24x24 please comment!
Your tap water is most likely fine as it is- what are your kH, gH, and pH?

Most people just use simple drop test kits such as the API. Depending on what fert dosing strategy you end up choosing, you may or may not need to do much testing once your tank is established. IMO you'll probably need to focus more on CO2 equipment and drop checkers if you're going the high light/high tech route (which is what it sounds like?)

As plants themselves are extremely effective chemical and biofilters, what you need to focus on most with a planted tank is mechanical filtration. Planted tanks produce TONS of debris (especially in comparison with SW tanks! lol) and so preventing dead spots and debris buildups with good flow and mechanical filtration is one of the easiest ways to avoid water quality and algae issues.

You don't HAVE to use anything under Eco. You can use a light dusting of peat if you wish, however.
 
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