Connecting two 10g tanks together..... need ideas....

13849 Views 12 Replies 7 Participants Last post by redfishsc, Oct 13, 2010

redfishsc

Discussion Starter · Oct 12, 2010

I have a 10g community tank, and would like to set up a second 10g shrimp-only breeding tank.

I'd like to connect them for stability's sake (and simplification.... only 1 water sample to test for parameters). They will sit side-by-side. Both will be lit with a Cree LED array (which I already have), providing fairly high light (dimmable though).

Right now the 10g is filtered by a Rena filstar, which I will use to divert some water flow into both tanks (probably via a splitter and a couple of ball valves.... or something).

No sump. Only the XP.

What I need is some ideas on connecting the two 10g together, and a slow rate of water exchange between them so that the young shrimp don't get whisked into the fish display tank.

I could use two clear plastic U-tubes (already have some) but they always get caked with algae and filled with air bubbles.... and those blasted "aqualifter" pumps are such a hassle if you use them to clear out bubbles. I suppose I could use the intake of the XP to clear bubbles....

I could drill both tanks (ugh...) and plumb them with bulkheads and just connect them with PVC pipe.

Or...

You tell me. Looking for clean, neat, and simple (hopefully).......

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Centromochlus

· #2 · Oct 12, 2010

Have you seen this setup? It's two tanks with a clear plastic "fish tube", allowing the fish to move from aquarium to aquarium. The funny thing is that they actually use it. I guess you'd technically only have to use one filter, but you'd probably need a powerhead or two on the other side.

As for not allowing the shrimp to get from one side to the other, maybe you could put some sort of sponge inside of the tube?

Orrrr.. you could have two of these tubes, with one power head in one aquarium and one power head in the other. Basically pushing water from aquarium #1 into aquarium #2 via tube #1, and pushing water from aquarium #2 into aquarium #1 via tube #2. Then you could just put sponges on the intakes of the powerheads and you've resolved the danger of the shrimp being sucked up.

I don't know.. it sounds kinda complicated. More so than it is to deal with two separate tanks.

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guppygolucky

· #3 · Oct 12, 2010

In my mind it sounds easy, but I know it'll be easier said than done:
Both tanks are side by side, have an intake from each tank go into a canister filter or whatever type of filter. Outflow goes into a 3rd smaller tank or reservoir that overflows into the two tanks separately.

But the idea seems to be like what you have, so...IDK?!?

OH! you could get 2 cheap low flow water pumps, place one in each tank and put the outlet into the opposite tank.

Like that 2 tank set-up, that desk is pretty DAMN strong!

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bigboij

· #4 · Oct 12, 2010

put em side by side filter intake in one, outflow in the other.

have u shaped pipe "connecting" them that is always under a siphon (air free so water will move to the low side) keeping them level

might work

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farmhand

· #5 · Oct 12, 2010

bigboij said:
put em side by side filter intake in one, outflow in the other.
have u shaped pipe "connecting" them that is always under a siphon (air free so water will move to the low side) keeping them level
might work

I have never done this, but... Thought about it many times. In fact I would love to set up a serious of 10 gal tanks all connected by siphons. Pump from the last into the first. I have worked with siphons many times in my younger days on the farm.

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wkndracer

· #6 · Oct 12, 2010

2 tanks, one filter

Had to dig back in my thread to page 5 trying to find a picture because I've been more concerned with updating on the spawning fish and ignoring the setup. The 10g is a Refugium of sorts. Water is fed by a flooded U tube from an old HOB using a sponge over the intake side to stop critters from transferring. Sponge equipped power head provides return flow into a spray bar in the 55g. Set up like this for over a year (works great). Where the power head would normally draw air for the bubbler a small piece of tubing now pushes water out/up to create surface movement eliminating surface film from forming in the 10g tank because with the tubing and spray bar attached it has back pressure from the run going to the 55g.

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ocelli

· #7 · Oct 12, 2010

Do not put inflow in one tank outflow other. Even with exact same floe as start. One pump/filter will get crudded up more and slow it's flow rate. Then you have 20 gallons in a 10, and a 10 empty. You could possibly install sort of a DIY overflow style pipe to equalize the tanks, but, if that fails...
I wouldn't risk it.

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wkndracer

· #8 · Oct 12, 2010

The problem I found with the canister filter intake in one tank and the discharge in the other was surface filming. You have to provide surface movement. Water seeks it's own level, the syphon head pressure would have to be HUGE for one tank to be drained over filling the other. Can it be done by using too large a pump/power head? Sure :icon_lol: Just play with the set up untill you find what works. I've 'daisy chained' three tanks using two syphons and one return from the last back to the first tank in the chain w/o flooding anything.

Surface filming is the issue I encountered not flooding. :icon_smil

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farmhand

· #9 · Oct 12, 2010

wkndracer said:
The 10g is a Refugium of sorts. Water is fed by a flooded U tube from an old HOB using a sponge over the intake side to stop critters from transferring. Sponge equipped power head provides return flow into a spray bar in the 55g. Set up like this for over a year (works great). Where the power head would normally draw air for the bubbler a small piece of tubing now pushes water out/up to create surface movement eliminating surface film from forming in the 10g tank because with the tubing and spray bar attached it has back pressure from the run going to the 55g.

Other than the sponges over the intakes, do you have any other filtering? Or do the plants do it all?
The reason I ask is I am looking at this type of system only was going to use the second tank as a filter. It does not seem like you have much mechanical filtering and it's working great!

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wkndracer

· #10 · Oct 12, 2010

The 55g was originally set up as a standalone. Eheim 2215 and a single UG filter plate and riser tube equipped with a power head. The sponges are to keep critters from going tank to tank. The 10g is currently full of MTS and plants (no fish) If I become overloaded with angel fry I can put them in for about a month before moving them to a larger tank.

I do have a low tech soil substrate 55g tank that the only filtration is a sponge equipped power head discharging into a PVC spray bar. (that one worked out great too.(IMO))

It's a real 'El cheapo' set up. Shop lights yada yada :hihi: (Lord I miss Tim)
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/low-tech-forum/86457-55-gallon-low-tech-soil-sub.html

OP, sorry for the hyjack

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bigboij

· #11 · Oct 12, 2010

ocelli said:
Do not put inflow in one tank outflow other. Even with exact same floe as start. One pump/filter will get crudded up more and slow it's flow rate. Then you have 20 gallons in a 10, and a 10 empty. You could possibly install sort of a DIY overflow style pipe to equalize the tanks, but, if that fails...
I wouldn't risk it.

you would only be using one filter, so if that filter gets crudded up on the intake side the outflow would reduce as well keeping it balanced, it cant put out more water than it takes in.

the siphon "U" should be appropriate sized to keep it from being the clogged piece in the equation, the only way it could cause one to over flow.

wkndracer said:
Surface filming is the issue I encountered not flooding. :icon_smil

only way i could see combating the surface film is using a spray bar in the first tank, and then using power heads to increase circulation in all the chained tanks. since the flow caused by the siphon would not be all that strong i think.

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wkndracer

· #12 · Oct 13, 2010

bigboij said:
only way i could see combating the surface film is using a spray bar in the first tank, and then using power heads to increase circulation in all the chained tanks. since the flow caused by the siphon would not be all that strong i think.

In three or more tanks daisy chained you are correct except for the final tank (the one with a return pump like I'm doing) just the slightest flow out the tubing connected to the bubbler fitting on the power head is enough to keep the tank clear.

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redfishsc

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 13, 2010

bigboij said:
put em side by side filter intake in one, outflow in the other.

have u shaped pipe "connecting" them that is always under a siphon (air free so water will move to the low side) keeping them level

might work

The U-tube trick definitely works. I did this on a 3-tank reef setup.

Major downside--- the slow flow rates will definitely cause bubbles (esp. with CO2 injection and O2 supersaturation) and insane amounts of algae growing in the tubes.... so then you add an aqualifter pump to keep the bubbles out, but that adds to the complexity even more.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1794856

ocelli said:
Do not put inflow in one tank outflow other. Even with exact same floe as start. One pump/filter will get crudded up more and slow it's flow rate. Then you have 20 gallons in a 10, and a 10 empty. You could possibly install sort of a DIY overflow style pipe to equalize the tanks, but, if that fails...
I wouldn't risk it.

I have an old CPR-style overflow (wier) that I can mod to make work. It's smoke acrylic, so algae growing in it won't be a big deal hopefully.

I may be able to rig the Filstar intake to purge the overflow of bubbles.

To keep the shrimp/fish from passing through, I could devise a small prefilter of some sort.

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