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i would add a small (too small to kill plants) amount of salt in your tank, just to make life a little more difficult for the ich. i would also raise the temp, so you can see if there is more (which there almost definately is). in the QT/hospital tank, i would add salt and raise the temps in addition to the medication.

for bba, i successfully got rid of it with excel OD and spot dosing. it still shows up from time to time in my moss, but its gone in a day or two as i keep SAE (after the ich is dead, you should add some). though its hard to kill, it (IME) doesnt really spread fast enough to smother most plants, it just looks very unsightly.
bleaching can kill it if used for 2 minutes or more.
 

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well, if you put really little (like 1/4 or less of the reccomended dose) then your plants will be hurt extremely little, and if its only for a little (like a few weeks), it wont even become visible. your fish will barely feel the affects. the ich will also barely be affected, but it will be hurt more then the fish, giving the fish an edge.

im no expert, but im 99.9999% certain amanos wont mind a little salt. their shrimplets live in a marine environment. but again, i never tried it, consult a shrimp expert.

as far as i understand, all of them. but i never really reviewed what i know, because only my very first fish had ich.

you will still get full-blown ich in that tank with the sole tetra, and you cannot remove the tetra after the ich drops until after you beat the breakout (and wait an additional 2-3 weeks or so, just in case).
 

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i suggest adding a bit of salt in the tanks, it doesnt do much, but it will help.

just a suggestion: move most of your biomedia from the current filter into the new tanks. make sure to keep the biomedia well aeriated (or put it in the new filters), so you dont let anaerobic bacteria colonize it. that will keep your fish from being stressed by ammonia and nitrites.
you can tie your bioballs (or whatever your filter has) in a mesh bag with an airstone inside. that will keep it well oxygenated, so the bacteria can work and bad ones cant survive.

i believe ich can live 3 weeks or more without a host, so you will be looking at a month before the fish can go back safely.

can shrimp get ich? i dont see how, as they have an exo-skeleton, but i dont know much about shrimp.
 

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there are only a few things you need to know unless you are doing a walstad tank:
-they dont need O2 to survive, and O2 is lethal to many (but not all)
-they produce toxins harmful to fish.
-anaerobic respiration wastes more energy then aerobic respiration, so if your tank is well oxygenated (including gravel and bioball pores which may need some current) aerobic bacteria have the advantage and outcompete the anaerobes that can survive O2 contact.

basically, dont use gravel without plants or a UGF. and if you put biomedia, wrap an airstone in it, or put it in a high flow area to keep the O2 circulating in the little pores.

yeah, you will need new biomedia, but its easy to get and plants dont mind cycling. fish however do. besides you will need to re-introduce fish slowly anyway, and you will have ample time to cycle the tank again.
 

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Oh, geeez, I just realized something. I used the same python to change the water in my apisto's 10g H/T that I've used to change the water in the 75g. This means my apisto may have been exposed to ich, as well. I'll have to keep a real close eye on him.
add salt and raise temps. if its the one with the wound, it cant hurt. even if there is no ich, the salt will kill some bacteria and protists and lower the chance of infection while the raised temps will help him make antibodies faster.

Some say that ICH is always present in fish and just wait for them to become stressed enough to show.
and some also say goldfish do fine in bowls.
if you believe that, do you also believe all people have tapeworms? also, if ich is always present, but only a problem when the fish are stressed, then how come if you add an ich host fish into a tank they all get ich? i wouldnt think 1 guppy could stress out a bunch of big fish enough to make them sick.
most WILD fish have COME IN CONTACT with ich. but in the wild, ich are very successful parasites (a parasites success is judged by how little damage it does to its host, so it can survive on the same host the longest). you may get 3 spots, they fall off, and the fish just keeps on swimming. that way it doesnt get re-infected (at least not soon). in a tank, it gets 3 and then all their offspring, and so on until it cant sustain them all. most unfiltered surface water probably has ich, but tap water is treated for protozoans, so there are no ich in there.

Maracyn is pretty potent stuff- and another round might be too strong for him (antibiotics have a great habit of being indiscriminant and taking out good bacteria, like the kind needed to digest food, along with the bad).
i never had maracyn hurt my nitritifying colonies. i suspect people THINK it does that, when it actually doesnt. perhaps its just the bioload of billions of dead bacteria. if you use established gravel in a tank but dry it out first and keep it in the dark, you will see just how big a bioload dead bacteria are.
 

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try and get the pic. tetras tend to stay still for a few seconds at a time so it shouldnt be too hard to get a close up. heh, that would be funny if its not ich.

if you arent sure, its best to seperate them anyway and see what happens.
 

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careful. if you medicate, try to at least be close to sure that you are medicating the right thing (dont use an antibiotic for a fungus and so on). diagnosis is always helpful.

ever take antibiotic cream? i do (acne). its usually hard to get a hold of, since you need a perscription, but my mom is a doctor. the stuff might actually work. but its for a skin infection.
but fish are different. they live in water, so their body isnt as water-proofed as ours, no point. you cant really dehydrate under water (dont mention sea water, its the salt thats the problem). so the meds do get inside them. of course oral is better, but water dosing isnt as useless as some people think.

any more deaths?
any infections getting worse?
if your fish can survive it longe enough, their bodies will adapt and fight the parasite. thats all antibiotics do, buy time. fungucides, are different, and i dont know about medication for protist infections (like ameobas).
 

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wow, great.
unfortunately, good things only happen in order for bad things to be able to happen (you cant lose something you dont have, so you get something, just to lose it later). everything ever born is doomed to die.
hopefully a lot later and not to the mystery disease though.

i dont know about pelvi-whatever, but bettas do great. they need LOTS of waterchanges (like 99% a day), or their growth stunts.
 

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no, you didnt get what i meant.
laura said that fry dont like large water changes. i said that betta fry (since they are the only fry i had besides guppies, which are indestructable) NEED large water chagnes daily to keep growing well.
i wasnt suggesting putting a betta in there. either the pelvi...s would eat the tail and it would get fin rot, or they would eat its tail and the betta would stike back (bettas are slow, but persistant, i have had one kill a danio, and danios are fast).
 

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for most tanks, i would think that it would be enough to just drain the water and cover the top with cellophane with a hole or two (so the plants can breath, but they humidity is high and they dont dry out). but im not sure with a 75 gallon tank. the substrate would be pretty heavy...
 

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they are really good algae eaters and fun(ny) to watch when they are young.
when they get older they are much less active, and eat much less. they also realize flakes are edible by that time and use algae only as a suppliment. but the old ones are smart fish. my oldest SAE (RIP) recognized me from my dad.
 

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well FYI, you will not catch even 1 SAE with a net in under 2 hours. i never saw that product before, so i dont know how well it works. but catching a SAE, is like trying to catch a horse on foot. until its dead, you have no chance.
 

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your tank is amazing. such deep dark vivid intense colors.
it looks stunning.
i love the lotus. and the stems.
your reds are so red they are purple, im very impressed.

oh and i love the SAE. great fish.

i think that rotala might be a wallichi? it looks to red to vietnam.
 
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