you may have been just running your co2 a bit high, you have a needle valve right?
CO2 tank empty too soon?
Just want to check and make sure I'm not crazy. Noticed my drop checker was blue so I opened up my cabinet to make sure my timer was set correction and noticed my 10lb CO2 tank was empty. It's only been going since 3/5, so roughly a month and a half. I've been running my dual stage parker IR 6000 at 30psi for roughly 10hours a day since 3/5. Started out with a GLA inline atomic diffuser but have switched to a cerges reactor on 3/19 (running psi hasn't changed) I didn't seem to detect any leaks when I got it up an running (no soap bubbles I could see).
I feel like the tank should have lasted longer. The high pressure gauge indicator has been between the 800-900psi since I installed it so assumed the tank would last a long while. Since it's my first CO2 tank I need some validation to my experience, or some indication that something's amiss.
I feel like the tank should have lasted longer. The high pressure gauge indicator has been between the 800-900psi since I installed it so assumed the tank would last a long while. Since it's my first CO2 tank I need some validation to my experience, or some indication that something's amiss.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
What is your bubble rate? I have my reg at 30 psi, 4-6 bps and it lasts 3-4 months, and I have a 5 lb tank
I have it at 2.75bps with water in my counter that is attached to the regulator. Yep, have a needle valve.
You most likely had a leak between the tank and the connection to your regulator. Did you use a washer (nylon) or a perma-seal? If you did, next time put a bit of soapy water around the connection to see if any bubbles form. At the rate you mentioned I would think it would last for at least 6 months minimum.
I'm getting the tank refilled tonight and back in action in the morning so will test then with soapy water then. I did have a nylon washer but didn't replace it when I had to disconnect/reconnect the reg when I replaced the solenoid since it wasn't that old. Thought everything was sealed up tight as I didn't get bubbles after reassembling then but we'll see this go around.
You most likely had a leak between the tank and the connection to your regulator. Did you use a washer (nylon) or a perma-seal? If you did, next time put a bit of soapy water around the connection to see if any bubbles form. At the rate you mentioned I would think it would last for at least 6 months minimum.
I think this is one of the requirements in the learning curve for any folks? Sorry, but I would guess that you have been caught in a very common trap and left a leak.
The reason for the high pressure not moving for a long time is one thing that leads people to miss leaks. They think of the gauge as showing things are fine if they are not aware that the gauge doesn't work like a car's gas gauge. This gauge shows there is still the same pressure even when we are really using the liquid portion out of the tank. the gauge doesn't start down until after all the liquid portion has gassed off and then the pressure begins to move down. But that is only the last small bit of CO2 and the rest is likely wasted!
One point that I learned is that a big leak is as easy to miss as a slow leak. Very odd but easy to do. When mixing a bubble /soap solution, it is important to mix it really super thick. Think like shaving crème or whipped cream. I do this by using a lot of liquid soap and a little water and then "whipping" the mix with a small hobby brush.
Reason this is important is the way gas can blow things off or take a short time to blow a bubble big enough to spot. You need the soap thick enough to cling to everything, so that you can either spot a big leak as a bare spot or a small leak after a half minute or so as it blows a bubble.
This is a case of taking time to go slow can save a whole bunch of time. It may take 15 minutes to do a good check. But thinking how long it takes to disconnect, take the tank there and back and then reconnect and it can be almost a no-brainer which saves the most!
Not to mention the repeated kicking tends to wear the seat out of your pants?
Been there, done that and learned the hard way!
The reason for the high pressure not moving for a long time is one thing that leads people to miss leaks. They think of the gauge as showing things are fine if they are not aware that the gauge doesn't work like a car's gas gauge. This gauge shows there is still the same pressure even when we are really using the liquid portion out of the tank. the gauge doesn't start down until after all the liquid portion has gassed off and then the pressure begins to move down. But that is only the last small bit of CO2 and the rest is likely wasted!
One point that I learned is that a big leak is as easy to miss as a slow leak. Very odd but easy to do. When mixing a bubble /soap solution, it is important to mix it really super thick. Think like shaving crème or whipped cream. I do this by using a lot of liquid soap and a little water and then "whipping" the mix with a small hobby brush.
Reason this is important is the way gas can blow things off or take a short time to blow a bubble big enough to spot. You need the soap thick enough to cling to everything, so that you can either spot a big leak as a bare spot or a small leak after a half minute or so as it blows a bubble.
This is a case of taking time to go slow can save a whole bunch of time. It may take 15 minutes to do a good check. But thinking how long it takes to disconnect, take the tank there and back and then reconnect and it can be almost a no-brainer which saves the most!
Not to mention the repeated kicking tends to wear the seat out of your pants?
Been there, done that and learned the hard way!
When you remove the regulator from the CO2 tank, you must replace the nylon washer every time, even if it's just been replaced. Those nylon washers deform with use and are strictly a one use and throw away item.... I did have a nylon washer but didn't replace it when I had to disconnect/reconnect the reg when I replaced the solenoid since it wasn't that old. ...
Next time just get one of these. Just remember to grab it when you swap the tank and they don't keep it. CO2 Tank Leak Stopper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OFAQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Nny8yb5JHD2SN
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yah, I'm still figuring it out I guess. I thought I had done a thorough leak check. Makes complete sense how the pressure is steady until the liquid CO2 is gone. Thanks for the soap tip too. My soap to water ratio is really heavy on the water side, so will fix that in the morning. Slow and steady wins the race, right?
Thank you all for the words of wisdom. Much appreciated.
It's ok, you can call me stupid for this one! I screwed that one up. Sad thing is I questioned the need to replace and went against my gut feeling and told myself it'll be fine since it had only been 2 weeks at most. Again, live and learn.I think this is one of the requirements in the learning curve for any folks? Sorry, but I would guess that you have been caught in a very common trap and left a leak.
The reason for the high pressure not moving for a long time is one thing that leads people to miss leaks. They think of the gauge as showing things are fine if they are not aware that the gauge doesn't work like a car's gas gauge. This gauge shows there is still the same pressure even when we are really using the liquid portion out of the tank. the gauge doesn't start down until after all the liquid portion has gassed off and then the pressure begins to move down. But that is only the last small bit of CO2 and the rest is likely wasted!
One point that I learned is that a big leak is as easy to miss as a slow leak. Very odd but easy to do. When mixing a bubble /soap solution, it is important to mix it really super thick. Think like shaving crème or whipped cream. I do this by using a lot of liquid soap and a little water and then "whipping" the mix with a small hobby brush.
Reason this is important is the way gas can blow things off or take a short time to blow a bubble big enough to spot. You need the soap thick enough to cling to everything, so that you can either spot a big leak as a bare spot or a small leak after a half minute or so as it blows a bubble.
This is a case of taking time to go slow can save a whole bunch of time. It may take 15 minutes to do a good check. But thinking how long it takes to disconnect, take the tank there and back and then reconnect and it can be almost a no-brainer which saves the most!
Not to mention the repeated kicking tends to wear the seat out of your pants?
Been there, done that and learned the hard way!
Interesting... especially considering I forgot to ask for a new nylon washer. Good thing I have an extra. Might have to look into buying one of these. My tank does have the threads so it is compatible.When you remove the regulator from the CO2 tank, you must replace the nylon washer every time, even if it's just been replaced. Those nylon washers deform with use and are strictly a one use and throw away item.
Next time just get one of these. Just remember to grab it when you swap the tank and they don't keep it. CO2 Tank Leak Stopper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OFAQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Nny8yb5JHD2SN
Thank you all for the words of wisdom. Much appreciated.
Pretty easy to not tighten the CGA to valve connection enough..and one of the fastest ways to dump a tank prematurely..
AS to the nylon/teflon discs.."best practice" is to replace them each time.
https://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Washers-CO2-Regulators-Set/dp/B00AU0OF6K
12 for $6.50.. so might as well be disposable.
Personal experience shows it is unnecessary, as long as you tighten it good..I've had one a 5# for over 2 years.. YMMV.
Personal experience also says to never use the paper/fiber ones..They kept giving me them when refilling. Never used one..
to be honest I think I put one on and it leaked right away so switched back to nylon...
Just one of those things you look at, and alternates and go "naaahhhh"
I'm sure some people use them just fine..
IF one uses one it def. is a one time use..
AS to the nylon/teflon discs.."best practice" is to replace them each time.
Co2 Regulator Washer (nylon) | BeverageFactory.comHighlights
Reusable nylon plastic washer
Has grip edge to help keep washer in nut
Goes between the regulator and the Co2 tank
Please Note: May be red or white
https://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Washers-CO2-Regulators-Set/dp/B00AU0OF6K
12 for $6.50.. so might as well be disposable.
Personal experience shows it is unnecessary, as long as you tighten it good..I've had one a 5# for over 2 years.. YMMV.
Personal experience also says to never use the paper/fiber ones..They kept giving me them when refilling. Never used one..
to be honest I think I put one on and it leaked right away so switched back to nylon...
Just one of those things you look at, and alternates and go "naaahhhh"
I'm sure some people use them just fine..
IF one uses one it def. is a one time use..
Set it back up this morning. Doesn't appear to have any leaks at the connection to the tank. Did find a leak on the input side of the solenoid though. Need to disassemble so I can re-tape the connection. Hoping to get it tight this time around.
I do not replace the washer each time. I do have a small stack of them on the shelf but there is also another point to keep in mind. As we do this, we will get the "feel" of how much torque it takes and part of that is what wrench we are using. This is a good sturdy fitting that can take the torque most of us can put on the wrench so get a good one. If we use a short little wrench, we are more prone to leaving a leak. So I recommend spending a few bucks like $8-10 to get a really good 10 inch "Crescent" type adjustable wrench. It may seem like a waste to have a wrench if all you use it for is the CO2 tank but then you have to balance that against either replacing the washer each time or potentially leaving a leak.
And if you had the wrench, there might be all kinds of things you could use it to fix!
And if you had the wrench, there might be all kinds of things you could use it to fix!
There are other ways to do a leak check, and soapy bubbles may miss leaks.
Connect the Reg to CO2 tank. Turn the knob to working pressure of 0. Turn on the gas and shut it off. Check back in an hour or 2. High pressure should stay put. This means you installed the reg on your tank properly. I do this every time I get a tank refilled.
Next check the rest of the reg... make sure solenoid is off. Release some pressure into working pressure (low pressure gauge) to its highest setting or close to it. Then turn the knob closed on reg. Unscrew from CO2 tank and watch the low pressure gauge. If it drops the you have a leak somewhere between the 2nd stage chamber and your solenoid.
Recently I had a leak at my solenoid. Took me a while to figure it out, I had to redo all connections, tested the regulator separately by plugging the outlet until I was able to isolate the leak at solenoid.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Connect the Reg to CO2 tank. Turn the knob to working pressure of 0. Turn on the gas and shut it off. Check back in an hour or 2. High pressure should stay put. This means you installed the reg on your tank properly. I do this every time I get a tank refilled.
Next check the rest of the reg... make sure solenoid is off. Release some pressure into working pressure (low pressure gauge) to its highest setting or close to it. Then turn the knob closed on reg. Unscrew from CO2 tank and watch the low pressure gauge. If it drops the you have a leak somewhere between the 2nd stage chamber and your solenoid.
Recently I had a leak at my solenoid. Took me a while to figure it out, I had to redo all connections, tested the regulator separately by plugging the outlet until I was able to isolate the leak at solenoid.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
AFAICT not necessary and self defeating as one has tested the hp side..Unscrew from CO2 tank and watch the low pressure gauge.
Just back off the lp adj knob, shut off tank valve.. If the charge stays in.. no leaks..
And what happens when the leak is at the top of the bubble counter?There are other ways to do a leak check, and soapy bubbles may miss leaks.
Connect the Reg to CO2 tank. Turn the knob to working pressure of 0. Turn on the gas and shut it off. Check back in an hour or 2. High pressure should stay put. This means you installed the reg on your tank properly. I do this every time I get a tank refilled.
Next check the rest of the reg... make sure solenoid is off. Release some pressure into working pressure (low pressure gauge) to its highest setting or close to it. Then turn the knob closed on reg. Unscrew from CO2 tank and watch the low pressure gauge. If it drops the you have a leak somewhere between the 2nd stage chamber and your solenoid.
Recently I had a leak at my solenoid. Took me a while to figure it out, I had to redo all connections, tested the regulator separately by plugging the outlet until I was able to isolate the leak at solenoid.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If there's no leak up to solenoid then only option is to use soap on whatever is left. I don't use a bubble counter (all they did was cause trouble for me... tubing would pop off, liquid runs out, glass breaks...)or anything besides a diffuser and check valve after my needle valve.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rich I bought a good crescent wrench for this purpose. Don't know how I lived without it. I've used it for several non-CO2 related things. I'm probably guilty three fold with my leak, not replacing the washer and probably not tightening the fitting enough, and not catching a leak at the solenoid. Didn't want to over-tighten anything. Hopefully I have everything assembled and air tight this time.
Since I already have things going and I don't have any more washers (forgot to get some last night and the two places I know I can find them are closed for Easter today) so going to do this test next refill. Hopefully that is many many months from now.I do not replace the washer each time. I do have a small stack of them on the shelf but there is also another point to keep in mind. As we do this, we will get the "feel" of how much torque it takes and part of that is what wrench we are using. This is a good sturdy fitting that can take the torque most of us can put on the wrench so get a good one. If we use a short little wrench, we are more prone to leaving a leak. So I recommend spending a few bucks like $8-10 to get a really good 10 inch "Crescent" type adjustable wrench. It may seem like a waste to have a wrench if all you use it for is the CO2 tank but then you have to balance that against either replacing the washer each time or potentially leaving a leak.
And if you had the wrench, there might be all kinds of things you could use it to fix!
There are other ways to do a leak check, and soapy bubbles may miss leaks.
Connect the Reg to CO2 tank. Turn the knob to working pressure of 0. Turn on the gas and shut it off. Check back in an hour or 2. High pressure should stay put. This means you installed the reg on your tank properly. I do this every time I get a tank refilled.
Next check the rest of the reg... make sure solenoid is off. Release some pressure into working pressure (low pressure gauge) to its highest setting or close to it. Then turn the knob closed on reg. Unscrew from CO2 tank and watch the low pressure gauge. If it drops the you have a leak somewhere between the 2nd stage chamber and your solenoid.
Recently I had a leak at my solenoid. Took me a while to figure it out, I had to redo all connections, tested the regulator separately by plugging the outlet until I was able to isolate the leak at solenoid.
What we all need to keep in mind is that there is no perfect way, nor any one single test that will not fail. We need to apply the best test for the particular thing we are doing and whatever test we use, we need to do it in a good solid way. Any test can be ruined if we don't pay close attention to what we are doing. There are times when the routine of shutting things down and looking at the meters are good tests but we do have to do it carefully and get it right. Same goes for soap testing as It can be much quicker and handier than taking the hour to see if a meter moves. That may mean we will actually do the test where we might not if it took an hour.
But it does require the time and effort to do it right.
I find I like testing much more than I like taking things apart to redo a seal as I can also put things back together wrong the second time as well as the first time!
We used to have a saying where I worked?
If we don't have time to do it right the first time, how will we ever have time to do it over?
But it does require the time and effort to do it right.
I find I like testing much more than I like taking things apart to redo a seal as I can also put things back together wrong the second time as well as the first time!
We used to have a saying where I worked?
If we don't have time to do it right the first time, how will we ever have time to do it over?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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