[Virvelle]

I recently bit the bullet and got the pro se series co2art regulator, with an adapter to a piantball canister, I'm in college so it took me a while to save up for this.
Anyway, I attached them and realized I had a leak, so I tightened more, and more, until I realize it's probably over tightened. Took some tugging but I got it off and emailed co2art. They sent me a replacement adapter because when doing the soap suds test, they seemed to fix right on the adapter. They told me to use Teflon tape with the old one until the new one came.
Which I did, and tightened it to the point where there was no leak, and it was fine.
Well the new adapter came, and I can not for the life of me get the old adapter off. It won't budge, I even had my boyfriend try, who is much stronger than me. it's full on stuck.
I'm scared [censored][censored][censored][censored]less as to what to do, trying not to panic in thinking that my new regulator is damaged. Please help me!

 

[jeffkrol]

I recently bit the bullet and got the pro se series co2art regulator, with an adapter to a piantball canister, I'm in college so it took me a while to save up for this.
Anyway, I attached them and realized I had a leak, so I tightened more, and more, until I realize it's probably over tightened. Took some tugging but I got it off and emailed co2art. They sent me a replacement adapter because when doing the soap suds test, they seemed to fix right on the adapter. They told me to use Teflon tape with the old one until the new one came.
Which I did, and tightened it to the point where there was no leak, and it was fine.
Well the new adapter came, and I can not for the life of me get the old adapter off. It won't budge, I even had my boyfriend try, who is much stronger than me. it's full on stuck.
I'm scared [censored][censored][censored][censored]less as to what to do, trying not to panic in thinking that my new regulator is damaged. Please help me!

well you have the CGA to adapter and adapter to paintball co2 tank.
Which is stuck?

Neither fitting should require nor use teflon tape. Personally a stupid suggestion on their part.
Just made is slipperier to damage the threads..

First thing I'd do is discharge all the CO2 from the tank though..or take it off for sure. Like I asked, which parts are stuck?
Once you have no pressure or tank it's much safer reefing on the parts.

Worst comes to worse you can always remove the CGS from the regulator body and replace the cga stem for about $10.
Get confirmation of threads from CO2 ART though.

The good thing is the CGA on the regulator is fairly easy to replace and the nut as well. So your regulator is probably fine..more or less.
At least the most expensive part.

Regulator is prob. plated brass and the CO2 adapters seem to be anodized aluminum. Though aluminum and brass don't really play well together
the anodizing should keep them from binding by electrolysis.

That part may be shot. Sounds like you might have damaged the aluminum threads but we shall see.
The nut on the regulator cga stem.. isn't used to seal anything.


Feel free to share what I said to CO2 art..
One of us might need correcting..



That part may be shot. Sounds like you might have damaged the aluminum threads but we shall see.
The nut on the regulator cga stem.. isn't use to seal anything.

 

[Virvelle]

So I was able to take the paintball bottle off, and let the co2 run until there was nothing left. If you look at https://co2art.reamaze.com/kb/product-manuals-1e04d3b6e94c638a/pro-se-series-354bcb76e8890f08, it is part A that is stuck onto this adapter https://www.co2art.us/collections/c...o-series-co2-adapter-for-paintball-sodastream.

 

[Darkblade48]

You might be able to get the adapter/regulator off with a properly sized long crescent wrench (if you happen to have one).

 

[PlantedRich]

I suspect this is mostly a case of not having quite the right tools for the job. could be a bit of lack of brute strength but bigger longer tools is often the cure for that. But holding the fitting is going to be difficult without a vise to hold it really well.
In college does sometimes make it difficult as you are more likely to be in a bit of strange territory where you don't know too many folks, but college also has a wide range of folks who may be helpful.
Am I correct that you don't have a big vise laid out at your college home? That would be the ideal thing to put the adapter between a couple thin boards to cushion it to avoid messing the finish while using a big wrench like a "crescent" style to turn the part "A" which is the CGA 320 nut.
So is there like a machine shop, or wood shop around? That would be likely to have the vise and a bit of talk might get it loose?
Another option that depends on where and who, is too admit that there is a problem and walk it into a place that sells welding supplies and show them the problem. Crusty old guys that do this all the time like to help young folks if they are approached correctly, so that might work.
Just admitting that we have a problem can often lead to folks who like to help! Don't be pushy but don't be shy and just ask around for somebody who might know how to get it off. But do be a bit careful of the guy who wants to show off his mighty, might powers and doesn't have a clue how to hold it!

 

[jeffkrol]

So I was able to take the paintball bottle off, and let the co2 run until there was nothing left. If you look at https://co2art.reamaze.com/kb/product-manuals-1e04d3b6e94c638a/pro-se-series-354bcb76e8890f08, it is part A that is stuck onto this adapter https://www.co2art.us/collections/c...o-series-co2-adapter-for-paintball-sodastream.

OK let me get this straight..
Your "old" paintball adapter is stuck BUT you already have another one.. correct?
What did CO2 Art intend you do with the old one?
Asking to see how "consumable" the old one is.


Second question is how parallel is the adapter to the regulator?


In other words if you lay the paintball adapter on a board (like a 2x4) on the floor is the regulator "floating" off the floor?
No gauges hitting things ect.
Now the back of the regulater shoud be flat.. THAT part you want stable so shims or a board. Something solid.


You just want the body of the adapter on the board. Not the knob or the bit that's attached to the regulator.. though if it's a throw away this step (except for the stem part since you need the nut to float ) is not necessary.


The CGA nut actually floats so once it's a bit loos the reg will have no pressure on it.


Now the 2 person (easiest) fun part.. Step on the adapter (avoiding the knobby part. or not) And w/ the flat back of the reg firmly on the board/shim/floor use a 11/8 open end wrench of > 12" long..
loosen the nut. In a pinch this methods worked for me to remove cga stems..


NOW ymmv..


The flat face of the CGA and the flat face of the paintball adapter is the SEAL area..The nut and threads have nothing to do with it except to bring the 2 faces together w/ some sort of sealing material between them.



Still annoyed they suggested teflon tape btw..
No idea of what the paintball adapter is made out of all "art" says is

Made with anti-corrosion and durable materials.

How helpful.. not.


Does that make sense?


IF you can find something like this.. keep in mind that adding a length of pipe to the end gives you WAY more leverage..
https://www.plumbersstock.com/milwaukee-49-96-0365-opeend-wrench-1-18-i.html


ALSO make sure they didn't use some odd size nut..
Harbor Freight or auto stores should have something.


One odd thing I found out w/ the cheap Chineses one I have.. you need to slip the wrench in from the side.
Foe some odd reason mine is narrower at the mouth so you can't just err push it on. Ned to slip it on from the side..
Another YMMV.

3 feet of pipe on the end of a wrench performs miracles.