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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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I have every type of regulator out. This unit by far is built like a tank. Simple to use, Dual gauge with low PR readings over 60psi, I don't see why anything
else would be that much better.
I don't recall sending any regulators to Gainesville. Perhaps I'm mistaken. Don't knock what you haven't used.

Same basic weakness of most all-in-one units. Bubble counter mounted on the regulator. This means either a mechanical weakness or a cheaper needle valve.

The unit in question claims to have a Clippard needle valve. Well the best needle valve that Clippard makes is the MNV-4 and the needle valve in the picture is NOT the MNV-4. In fact the needle valve in the picture is not even in the Clippard catalog. Nothing in the catalog looks even remotely like that valve. That doesn't mean it's not a Clippard valve but it would mean that someone would have to purchase a LOT of them to get a custom order built.
 

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I do not think this set up is at all bad.
Better than most.

I'd lose the bubble counter, those things have poor seals and the hose connectors tend to be poor over time etc. A good barbed end is ideal.

If you wanted to make the best unit within reason:
Victor light duty reg(light means low flow volume, not wimpy)
Nupro Swagelok meter valve or the aquacave are decent:

http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=780

Perhaps AB or Rex etc might end up carry those, they are much better IME than the Clippards, which I have a lot of time with.

The solenoid can be like the one that's on there or a Clippard
The Tygon 1/8" tubing.

Or you could buy the AB one, it's still much better than most of the ones out there in the price range an folks do not have to monkey putting it together.

Like Chevy, make a cheapo, a mid level and caddy.
One for each budget.

The AC valve is nice due to the barbed end fitting very well to the Tygon tubing, and the 1/8" threaded end instead of that little 10-32 threaded tiny clippard that can get knocked and loosen thus causing a leak or if you want to use multiple manifolds and have issues with leaks etc, that little 10-32 thread + that little dinky rubber gasket is a poor seal for 10-20psi, okay for 1-2psi etc, but that's not what a needel valve is for in our case.

So a nicer thicker 1/2" threaded end is much better, that+ teflon ain't going anywhere. Add the Tygon, that's nice a flexible, there are not going to be much in the way of leaks etc.

Cost more? Yes.
However, I think spending more on CO2 is wise for regulation of flows.
The reg here looks decent to me.
But I have not used it either.

Regards,

Tom Barr
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rex sells them and may have a few left... And check out this thread entitled: my gift to you... There was a cheap source on Ebay. I'm not sure if they have all been sold out or what. I bought two of them, but haven't hooked up yet.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...you-cheap-metering-valves.html?highlight=gift

Rex's site is Rexgrigg.com at this page: http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/co2.html
Thanks Betowess, i`m aware of Rex`s swagelok , but was wondering if Tom was refering to another model since they are several & there is a local distributer of swagelok in my hometown.
Regards
 

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The Swagelok B-SS2 or B-SS4 both retail around the $60 range. The difference is the size of tubing used. Or you can go with the SS-SS series which are stainless steel and cost right around $100 each.

If you want to spend ~$60 on a valve then get the Ideal Series 52 valve. Hands down the best needle valve you can get for under $150.

Tom: Those Clippard 10-32 threads are rated to 100 psi. They are used extensively in the pneumatics area at those pressures. If I could find out who builds that needle valve you linked to I would take a look at it. If you want Tom I can send you a Fabco valve to test. I think you will find that it's as good as the Swagelok valves at a much lower cost.

Orlando: And I doubt that Robert is building that regulator body.
 
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