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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Red Sea Reactor 500 and it will only handle about 1 bubble per 10 seconds or so without purging some Co2 bubbles out the front. I have seen some of the new ceramic/glass pollen diffusers from ADA or from Green Leaf and I was wondering if those might work better or worse then what I have. Any thoughts or experience with either of those?
 

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What size tank? And what are you using for filtration?

If its a tank <30-40 gallons a diffuser like you mentioned will work fine. Get much larger and you'll end up wasting a lot of CO2 to get the levels you need.

If you have a canister I would look into making a DIY reactor. Much more efficient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
55 Gallon, and the emperor 400 power filter.

I really watched the tank this weekend and noticed that the Co2 level were just not enough so I splurged just now and got the aqua medic 1000 and the milwaukee ph controller sms122. I have an eheim 1250 laying around somewhere I can power it with. With a little plumbing and a diffuser I think it will work great. Thanks for your help.
 

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55 Gallon, and the emperor 400 power filter.

I really watched the tank this weekend and noticed that the Co2 level were just not enough so I splurged just now and got the aqua medic 1000 and the milwaukee ph controller sms122. I have an eheim 1250 laying around somewhere I can power it with. With a little plumbing and a diffuser I think it will work great. Thanks for your help.
Read up on the pH controller before you take it out of the package. Some people like them, and there are some benefits, but I think if you took a poll, most would come down against the controllers. If you like it, more power to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good to know, I will look around. Right now I have the Co2 comes on 2 hours before the lights and goes off 1 hour before the lights turn off (at my slow bps rate it takes a long time for the reactor to fill). Is there an advantage/disadvantage to basing it solely upon ph? Is that why some people would be against the controller? Would the timing method work better and just adjust the needle valve accordingly.

Kind of leads me to my next question, for that reactor I saw someone saying 4-5 bps was about the correct rate, I am pretty sure it can handle more than that can anyone confirm? The thought was if its being turned off and on by the controller the faster it can burst Co2 into the water the better right?
 

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With a controller you can pour the CO2 into the water much faster since the controller will shut off when it reaches its set-point. However, if your solenoid ever sticks meaning your pH controller can't shut the flow off, your fish will end up dead very quickly.

I use controllers on both my tanks simply because I find them easy to use. In the beginning you calibrate the probe, use a drop checker to find out what pH 30ppm of CO2 is and set the pH controller and forget it. It has the advantage of allowing you to get a more real time measurement of CO2 levels while also allowing like I said above to burst the CO2 into the water. Disadvantages are: its completely optional and expensive.
 

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There must be something wrong with your reactor. It should handle more then a bubble every 10 seconds. People run them at 2-3 bubbles per second with out a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was wondering about that as it really seemed to not perform that well, but I really think its pretty undersized in general for as many plants as I have and the size of my tank. Plus the little suction cups on the reactor keep letting go of the glass. Kind of annoying.

Accordz the reactor we are talking about uses a pump to create a vortex of the Co2 gas that then pulls down the Co2 down into the water. The Co2 tubing feeds directly into the pump. There is no air stone/ceramic.

As far as your second question it depends on your setup. It seems some diffusers are better than the reactor I bought and there are other reactors that seem to work better than any diffuser on the market. I saw some really nice DIY reactors out there if your budget is small.
 

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I thought that the general sense was that these reactors were OK, not great but OK. I know of two people who use them locally and have had no problems. Are they just lucky?
 

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I thought that the general sense was that these reactors were OK, not great but OK. I know of two people who use them locally and have had no problems. Are they just lucky?
I think the manufacturer is overly optimistic on tank sizes. They say up to 125 gallons (or 3bps). I don't know what 125 could get 30ppm with 3 bps. I pretty much have a stream going through my bubble counter.

I can see it working fine on up to 20 gallon tanks.
 

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I have the 500 as well and it is taking 10bps just fine. Occassionally there is a very small release of fine bubbles. Doesn't happen often and you could count the bubbles on your fingers, so it isn't a problem, but tells me that the reactor is probably near its max.

In my fairly hard water, I'm at 15ppm.

AB
 
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