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Hi

Using a timer the CO2 switches on 2 hours before lights on. Dropper checker is a nice Green Colour.

By morning the drop checker is a Deep Blue meaning I have big swings on my CO2 going on.

My water is low KH and GH out of the tap with a PH of 6.8.

Would a CO2 controller help to maintain a better more consistent level of CO2 - I am suffering badly with BBA despite weekly water changes.

Thanks for any help.

Mark
 

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The BBA might be less of a CO2/Light problem and more of a phosphate problem.

I did a dark start with my 75 gallon tank and only had minimal problems with diatom,

and green algae once I turned the lights on and planted but when I saw first signs

of BBA I checked for phosphates and bingo. I removed the infested leaves, placed

some Seachem Phosguard in my canister filter and the BBA was gone. I have my

CO2 turn on an hour before the light, and have it turn off an hour before the light,

plus I'm running an air pump at night. I tried a pH controller for a while but it was more

of a headache with monthly re-calibration of the probes than there was benefit.

 

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I don't know much about co2, I want to try it tho, but I do want to say something about BBA. I just recently overcame some staghorm algae, amd Seachem Flourish Excel is what helped me get rid of it. Worked like a charm

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I agree bba is likely a nutrient issue and less a co2 swing issue. I had big bba/staghorn problems when I had a dirt tank. Redid the tank but dumped the dirt and tada, no bba. What is your substrate make up and what is your dosing regime like? Are you doing +50% water changes weekly?
 

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Big swings in Co2 are fine, your turning off your CO2 at end of day right? So the next morning your Ph is going to be higher with less CO2( blue checker fluid), thats whats supposed to happen. Many of the more experienced of us try for a ph drop of 1 to 1.5 from your degassed water number. You can find this number by letting some water sit for a couple days then measure it. As said above, I also run an airpump at night.
 

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i suggest you use a pH pen/monitor instead of the drop checker. the dc tells you what your co2 levels WERE 2-3 hours prior. pH gives co2 approximation in real time. getting higher co2 levels involves increasing co2 injection and surface agitation. this allows you reach optimal co2 concentrations relatively quick and keeps it steady for the remainder of the photoperiod.

in addition to the video, check out dennis' website click here
 
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