Try increasing the water circulation within the tank first.
CO2 distribution negatively affecting plant color/algae growth?
This is a combination of several types of questions, so I'm not exactly sure where to put it. I have a 30g long, planted substrate fortified with iron clay powder, dolomite and potash. All my plants are growing really well and very quickly, but the red plants aren't red, specifically the red rotala, ludwigia peruensis, and limnophilia Aromatica. I mean, they are slightly pink, purple and have a red tinge, but they aren't nearly as vibrant as they should be. I follow the EI dosing protocols, but it hasn't made a difference in the coloration.
My co2 is pressurized, but with a small atomizer underneath a Koralia Nano 400 to circulate the co2. However, I'm not sure it's actually circulating the co2 all around the tank. I have a small outbreak of bba, mainly on the lower leaves of the plants furthest away from the co2 (and some on my equipment, like sponge filter tubes and my submersible heater). I have plenty of light (4 t5ho 6500k, only two of which are active during the photoperiod).
So, getting back to what Tom Barr always says, it's most likely the co2 and uneven distribution around the aquarium. If I turn the bubbles up any more, the fish gasp. Would switching to an inline reactor and external canister filter be a better solution for co2 saturation in the aquarium? Would it allow me to use more co2 without gassing the fish?
My co2 is pressurized, but with a small atomizer underneath a Koralia Nano 400 to circulate the co2. However, I'm not sure it's actually circulating the co2 all around the tank. I have a small outbreak of bba, mainly on the lower leaves of the plants furthest away from the co2 (and some on my equipment, like sponge filter tubes and my submersible heater). I have plenty of light (4 t5ho 6500k, only two of which are active during the photoperiod).
So, getting back to what Tom Barr always says, it's most likely the co2 and uneven distribution around the aquarium. If I turn the bubbles up any more, the fish gasp. Would switching to an inline reactor and external canister filter be a better solution for co2 saturation in the aquarium? Would it allow me to use more co2 without gassing the fish?
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Definitely sounds like you need to improve circulation within the water column.
I have two powerheads, a nano 400 and a 240. The co2 atomizer is under the 400 which is in the back corner. The 240 is on the other side, in the front corner to return water to the other side. I don't know how it could be anything other than a placement issue with those powerheads in such a small tank. Do I need to change their locations? I've tried two other configurations with no luck on that, either.Definitely sounds like you need to improve circulation within the water column.
I also see this as a circulation problem.
Are the 2 power heads and filter working at cross purposes? The flow from one cancels out the flow from another? Add something that sinks slowly (perhaps fish food) and watch what happens as it sinks through different areas of the tank.
Are the 2 power heads and filter working at cross purposes? The flow from one cancels out the flow from another? Add something that sinks slowly (perhaps fish food) and watch what happens as it sinks through different areas of the tank.
No, everything is working together to create a clockwise flow. But the areas that are the worst hit are on the opposite side of the 400. What do you suggest I try?
Do you dose for iron?
There's iron in the substrate and iron in the micros as part of EI. I don't separately dose for iron, though.Do you dose for iron?
What kind of micro do you dose? Not all of them include iron.There's iron in the substrate and iron in the micros as part of EI. I don't separately dose for iron, though.
Flourish. I don't see how iron could possibly be a problem, though, with it being dosed and in the substrate. None of my plants show any signs of iron deficiency.What kind of micro do you dose? Not all of them include iron.
If it's flourish "micro", it contains no iron. Flourish comprehensive does, though. And lack of red could be an iron deficiency.Flourish. I don't see how iron could possibly be a problem, though, with it being dosed and in the substrate. None of my plants show any signs of iron deficiency.
It's comprehensive. I know what I'm dosingIf it's flourish "micro", it contains no iron. Flourish comprehensive does, though. And lack of red could be an iron deficiency.
And yes, it could be a sign of iron deficiency, but I just don't see how that's possible. 25% of the substrate is clay powder. I'll dose iron if I have to, but it seems like there are other areas to improve that are more likely to solve the issue, especially considering the BBA.Any ideas? All of my plants are gently swaying, which is what I was always told to aim for, even the ones with the bba. So do I need a different type of powerhead to get the co2 dissolved?
The kh and ph test shows me at about 35 ppm, which makes sense considering I can't turn the co2 up without gassing the fish.
I'm a little stuck here. I don't know how to increase circulation, so the next step in my mind is to increase the co2 saturation efficiency in the water. Just need to know if that's a good idea. Several people have already suggested a circulation issue, but I haven't received any suggestions as to how to effectively increase it in a 30g long.
The kh and ph test shows me at about 35 ppm, which makes sense considering I can't turn the co2 up without gassing the fish.
I'm a little stuck here. I don't know how to increase circulation, so the next step in my mind is to increase the co2 saturation efficiency in the water. Just need to know if that's a good idea. Several people have already suggested a circulation issue, but I haven't received any suggestions as to how to effectively increase it in a 30g long.
You may try to Lower the light intensity by raising the fixtures or shortening the photoperiod. That should lessen the need for so much co2.
Only change that and observe for 2 weeks at least.
Well.... I think that could help.
Question: were the plants brighter red before and now are more flat?
Only change that and observe for 2 weeks at least.
Well.... I think that could help.
Question: were the plants brighter red before and now are more flat?
are red plants at corner or center? and your T5HO are 24watt per bulb, am I right?
I've tried different photoperiods, but nothing seemed to have an effect on the algae nor the plant coloration. Right now, I've settled on a 6 hour photoperiod.You may try to Lower the light intensity by raising the fixtures or shortening the photoperiod. That should lessen the need for so much co2.
Only change that and observe for 2 weeks at least.
Well.... I think that could help.
Question: were the plants brighter red before and now are more flat?
No, the plants were never bright red, except for when they were shipped to me. As they grew, they grew in green only.
They are in the center. 39w per bulb. It's a 4x39w 36" T5HO, which is why only two bulbs are on at any given time. So, really, it's just 2x39w for 6 hours per day. Having all the bulbs on, regardless of photoperiod, only contributed to green spot algae and had no effect on the coloration of the plants.are red plants at corner or center? and your T5HO are 24watt per bulb, am I right?
I had the red plants same as yours in my old tank(29G), and the light was 96 watt PC for 10 hours, noon time 96X2 watt for 2 hours. light fixture 6-8 inches above the water, the red plants were all red.
The temperature of the water was 75-77 degree.
rusted nails in the substrate as iron supplement, Eco-complete, 10-20ml API leaf zone liquid fert once every other week, DIY co2, no EI dosing.
The temperature of the water was 75-77 degree.
rusted nails in the substrate as iron supplement, Eco-complete, 10-20ml API leaf zone liquid fert once every other week, DIY co2, no EI dosing.
I tried that photoperiod and just got algae explosions.I had the red plants same as yours in my old tank(29G), and the light was 96 watt PC for 10 hours, noon time 96X2 watt for 2 hours. light fixture 6-8 inches above the water, the red plants were all red.
The temperature of the water was 75-77 degree.
rusted nails in the substrate as iron supplement, Eco-complete, 10-20ml API leaf zone liquid fert once every other week, DIY co2, no EI dosing.
once the plants start healthy growth, only algae is the GSA on the glass, but a credit card can get the job done.
And I had a school of 3-5 true SAE in the tank, algae prevention.
EI dosing is to maximize plants growth, but make the water stink, and water change is due every week. For these reasons I did't go EI. The tank was heavily planted, water quality was stabilized, I only did water change every 6 month, or when the TDS reached 450(due to vaporization).
There were about 100-120 all kinds of fish in that small tank, from small size(neon tetrat) to midsize(congo tetra)..
And I had a school of 3-5 true SAE in the tank, algae prevention.
EI dosing is to maximize plants growth, but make the water stink, and water change is due every week. For these reasons I did't go EI. The tank was heavily planted, water quality was stabilized, I only did water change every 6 month, or when the TDS reached 450(due to vaporization).
There were about 100-120 all kinds of fish in that small tank, from small size(neon tetrat) to midsize(congo tetra)..
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