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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have a Bashsea PM-1 reactor I want to convert into a Co2 reactor.

I have a couple issues though. One it has 12mm input and output vers my XP3 w with larger hosing. I'm concerned about possible flow issues.

Second I'm not sure where to place the AirStone. My original thought was to put it at the bottom, but after cleaning I realized I can't easily remove the bottom baffle.

I could either put right above the bottom baffle or I was trying to think of and way too drill a hole in the side under the plate larger enough for a cylindrical AirStone but then I'm not sure how to seal it.







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I'm assuming the normal flow for this reactor is for the in flow to come down the center tube and then up through the media? Honestly all you need to do is reverse that flow and then port the top cap with a hose barb where the co2 can connect. No need for an air stone. The co2 will stay near the top and get mixed into the water by the inflow, basically like any other Rex Griggs type reactor or very similar to an Ista Max Mix. The smaller diameter fittings will definitely reduce flow though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought about reversing the flow last night as well after I posted this. I was looking at it and reading up on other posts when I realized that might be the way to go. :)

For flow I'm considering just picking up a return pump from Petco and running it separate from the canister. I have decent flow in the tank with the XP3 right now, but lowering that flow is going to drop it a lot I think, below acceptable levels.

It also dawned on me that baffle plate is movable. If I reverse the flow and move that baffle plate to any halfway down I think it would give pretty good flow. My only concern is the possibility of a check valve somewhere built into the reactor. I haven't delved into it enough yet to one if there might be one.


Thank you. :)

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You are correct in thinking that the smaller fittings will reduce flow a lot. Any fitting on the tubing will reduce flow. when we look at a fitting for 3/4", the fitting goes inside so the fitting outside is 3/4" but then the plastic takes space and the inside where the flow goes is way less than 3/4". Lots less space and lots less flow, so it is a tradeoff any time we add a fitting. With a larger than needed filter, we can get by losing some, though. One way to avoid having the really small fitting in the path to block the total flow is by adding the reactor as a second or "bypass" route. Cut in a "T" or better is a "Y" to add the second route and some of the water will go both directions like highway traffic. Still some loss of flow but it doesn't require a second pump. Just an option to muddy the mind!

I find I can run my airline CO2 tubing through PVC without fittings by just drilling a really undersized hole. Really hard to pull the tubing through when the hole is small, so I cut the tubing tip at a really sharp angle to make a sharp point to stick in the hole. Then I reach inside with needle nose to pull, stretch the tubing to get it on into the space. When I turn loose the tubing presses out hard enough to seal good. One of the ways I see folks mess with the Grigg's plan is when they add a fitting and the CO2 is let into the reactor next to the wall rather than center of the water flow. It can sneak up the side and form a bubble to make noise.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, that's the way I'm going to run it and thank you. :) Although I'm considering running the hose through the side at the top and attaching one of the small thin airstones to it. I figure the smaller bubbles might diffuse better than bigger ones.

Now to how to hook all this up. I don't want to run it through my Rena filter so I'm thinking of an external return pump. Something like a little Hydor 185gph. Should that be enough to get diffusion working? I don't want to add a lot of flow, just enough to diffuse the Co2. The Hydor pumps are adjustable as well, just trying to decide on how much GPH I should get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So finished my diffuser even with the Aqueon cheap pain in the butt silicone.

Diffuses 100% from what I can tell and I am now sure I need a drop checker.....



https://vimeo.com/162303169



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Just as a point that might save some grief?
I try to not trust too much stuff as it seems even the best can fail. One of the things that I find is silicone doesn't always tick really well to slick plastic. It has a habit of gradually letting it ooze.
So I feel better when I put the reactors and filters in a container to catch that first little ooze rather than the floor. Maybe something as simple as a milk jug cut off to set it in?

Looks like you are getting pretty close to working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So far the only leak has been due to me failing to put a check valve in the air line for the air stone. Other than that nothing else has leaked. Although I need a better bubble counter. :-/

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