[Jaguar]

I just got a used tank today, hydrostat just a few days ago and filled... 2 hrs after setting it all up I am in the bathroom and hear my CO2 venting out my reg release valve. Tried opening up the pressure but it's still venting. I bought the regulator from the SnS and it has been in storage until today. Victor VTS-250C

I am pretty new to this but I followed instruction guides. Attached the reg (permaseal), started with everything closed, opened up the tank, brought the working pressure up to ~30 psi, plugged in the solenoid and fined tuned needle valve to about ~2 bps. It was fine for 2 hours and then all of a sudden it started venting. What's up?

I am about to go away for a few weeks so I would like to at least get this thing NOT blasting CO2 in my face before I leave. I won't be leaving it running just in case.

 

[oldpunk78]

Where was it venting from? The reg or the tank?

 

[Jaguar]

reg, sorry for confusion

 

[oldpunk78]

You can remove it (the relief valve) and replace it with a 1/4npt plug at just about any hardware store or you can get a replacement relief valve at just about any welding supply. It might be difficult to remove (hard to turn it with a wrench) as victor usually glues them in.

 

[Jaguar]

Okay, I will have to deal with it when I get back in January, I won't have time before I leave tomorrow. Was hoping I was just doing something wrong/something fixable at home but it's all right. Thank you

 

[Jaguar]

Bump, if anyone else has any ideas I'm at home for one more day

 

[Kathyy]

Both my Milwaukee and M3 regulators decided to whistle on me too. Their pressure relief valves aren't glued in and over the years they came unscrewed. I put my thumb on top of them and screwed them back down with no tool. No more whistling. It was bizarre that this happened to both regulators the same week but those valves were rattling and about to fall out I really don't think it was a problem with too much gas in the tank or anything like that. I seriously doubt that is what is going on with your regulator, it is a much better built one and if the valve is glued down it isn't going to get loose.

 

[Jaguar]

Yeah it's not loose, I checked it out, it does look like it's glued in there good. I'm just scared to mess with it since I'm more or less clueless. I will see if anyone else has any ideas, otherwise I'll just disconnect it and leave it till I get back

 

[IWANNAGOFAST]

the time the pressure release valve blew on me was because I had opened up the co2 bottle too much. I basically just turned it all the way open, and a day later, sounded like a tea kettle.

Now, I only just barely crack the tank open

 

[Jaguar]

Hmm, I read a lot of conflicting info on whether to open the tank all the way or just one turn etc, I went with what the seller of the reg said in the printoff he gave me to open it all the way, maybe that's what did it? It's still happening when I barely let the tank open too..

 

[oldpunk78]

the time the pressure release valve blew on me was because I had opened up the co2 bottle too much. I basically just turned it all the way open, and a day later, sounded like a tea kettle.

Now, I only just barely crack the tank open

While it's a good idea to not open the cylinder quickly, the same amount of pressure is going to make it to the regulator if it's just cracked open or you've got the thing wide open. The tank open/close valve doesn't regulate pressure.

I just wanted to clarify that.

 

[150EH]

You can remove it (the relief valve) and replace it with a 1/4npt plug at just about any hardware store or you can get a replacement relief valve at just about any welding supply. It might be difficult to remove (hard to turn it with a wrench) as victor usually glues them in.

This sounds like good advise to me, a cheap solution that will work for a long time. I'm no expert but I think the pressure relief valve is more for welders, etc. where tanks maybe subjected to high temperatures and violent movement in the back of a truck, etc., I know you can only paint your home tank white or silver because they are colors that reflect light and keep the tank cooler, I wanted to paint my outdoor tank black and after I called my supplier I was told black absorbed too much heat from the sun and the gas expansion would cause problems.

I've always been told that to prevent leaks you open the tank valve all the way because there is a seal at each end, now that is for a propane tank on a gas BBQ grille but I don't see why a 5# would be any different. That's all I can say except I'm sorry you waited all this time and then had a problem straight away, please keep me informed.

 

[Jaguar]

I am back from my vacation now, waiting to get over this nasty cold before I can get the damn regulator fixed. I tried chilling the tank for a few minutes outside but it's still blowing out CO2 as soon as I open the tank. I will post an update when I get it fixed.

 

[Bettatail]

the relief valve is there for a reason, because it connects to the chamber that between the first and second diaphragm chambers of the regulator.
in the middle section, the pressure usually set around the max to double that output of the regulator, and guarded by the first poppet valve and the first diaphragm.
if the first diaphragm or the first poppet valve fail, the pressure will exceed the relief valve rating, gas escape and give warning.
Replace the relief valve with a plug, if the first poppet valve fail, it is still be ok because most the double stage regulator can handle the high pressure co2 at 800 psi with only one poppet valve working(second poppet valve).
If it is other high pressure gas(>1000ps), to seal the relief valve port with a plug is dangerous, first poppet valve fail and the second poppet valve can't handle high pressure alone.

If the second poppet valve fail, no matter first poppet valve good or not, the regulator is broken.

 

[Jaguar]

I am bumping this thread again. I still did not get this fixed. I'm ready to now.

Few things I've observed.

There is a visible gap between some sort of materials in she small vent slit. I am not sure if this is normal, or if it means the relief valve is really toast. Which leads me to wonder why it failed in the first place?

The valve is glued in. Tight. I've tried to get it out but I have nothing to hold it and I can't get it out.

What valve exactly would I need to replace it? I don't really want to plug it in case there is something structurally wrong with the regulator. This whole thing kind of scares me to be honest lol.

And should i re-glue the new valve or cap? I don't think it's necessary but then again I don't want it to leak or fail again.

 

[oldpunk78]

An impact driver would be the easiest way to remove the fitting in question. Next is a bench vise and a big socket wrench.

 

[tatersalad]

don't put heat on it for sure, do like oldpunk78 said. take it off the tank and put it in a vise and get on it with a socket and ratchet.

 

[FlyingHellFish]

*puts on my thinking cap

How do we know the relief valve is the culprit here? If it is removed, do you have another one to test it with? If not, what other solutions could we try out.

That regulator is a forged construction type, sadly, I have only have a barstock without that extra relief valve to test with.

You said you see a little gap near the relief valve, can you try to take the valve off and put it back on tighter? If it is in fact glue on, you need a bench vise and Superman to take it off.

 

[Jaguar]

I have no reason to believe there's anything else wrong with this regulator. It's clean, well taken care of (although old), and it came from a reputable seller. It was clearly working before it was sent to me. I really hope it's a simple fix. It cost me a small fortune and I won't be able to replace it any time soon...

I didn't notice any abnormalities (rise in pressure, etc) before the safety valve released, so I guess the idea is that it just... failed, for whatever reason.

Right now I can either replace it with another valve, or plug it completely as bettatail suggested before. I'm not sure which option would be more safe, or what replacement valve I would replace it with.

Yes, it's glued - Victor glues them all in. I don't have the tools to get it off at home but I will try Home Depot or something next weekend.

By the gap, I mean I can see some kind of cracked/split material INSIDE the safety valve. Not sure what it means, if anything.

I just really, really want to get this fixed.

 

[talontsiawd]

Just a thought but it may be worth taking to a welding supply shop. I have never had a CO2 regulator problem but I have had problems with industrial equipment for other hobbies. I remember being so frustrated at something, finally taking it into a shop, only to be charged $5 to fix it. Just saying that it may be worth a shot.