The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have had a BBA problem for so long. We recently got a injected co2 hoping it would help. But no. It's still growing. Even after taking all our old plants out and adding new ones. We have a 90 gallon ( it's kinda tall) with a finnex ray 2 on for 8 hrs a day. Within the last week, we were finally able to fine tune the co2 so that the drop checker colors match within a couple hours of the light turning on. We have a ph controller on the way.
I'll admit, I kinda slack on remembering to dose with Seachem flourish.our plants are nothing fancy ( swords, crypts, a little Java moss and another type of plant I can't recall). We have silver dollars, so I'm careful to only get plants that they will least likely eat.
Any suggestions ? Do we need more light ? Less light ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,916 Posts
Probably need more flow. BBA seems to take hold due to inconsistent CO2 levels (which is not likely in your case since you only just started injecting) OR due to poor circulation/flow. What kind of filter(s) do you use and do you have anything else in there like a powerhead?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,273 Posts
CO2 is ok to keep constant. A clean filter and a setup with low organic debris may also help in BBA control.

Try and begin to spotdose with Excel. Turn filter off, dose according to recommendations but only in a spot affected by BBA. After 5-15min turn the filter back on. The algae should turn red or white within 2 days. This helps reduce the amount, but on its own will not stop BBA from spreading.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
We actually just added a secondary filter the last few weeks. We have a fluval 406 canister filter. And a marine land penguin300 ( I think. It's rated up to 50gallons)
We have noticed that our filters gunk up sooooo quickly. Within a week of adding that marineland, the filter pads were covered in gunk.
The canister filter is basically filled with bio-balls and sponges ( two different types)
I don't get why they gunk up so quickly either.
We clean the tank at least every two weeks if not sooner.
We have 4 silver dollars, a bristlenose pleco, angelfish, blue gourami, 4 black skirted tetras, 1 diamond tetra, 1 neon tetra ( these are from schools that have died off which is why the low numbers) , 4 cory cats and 2 Bolivian Rams

Also, we have had co2 going for at least a month. But just now got it where the levels get the drop checker in the green range quickly. But before hand, it was inconsistent IMO
Should we just leave the co2 on all the time till the ph controller gets delivered ?

Here are some pics if that helps. We definitely have green/brown/reddish algae too
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,012 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,942 Posts
If your fish aren't accustomed to it, don't start running your co2 24/7. There be absolutely no benefit plant or algae wise and you might end up killing your fish.

Tall tanks are difficult. You have a lot of water to drive light through to reach the plants and the plants can only take up so much real estate since the tank's size is in height. Because of that even if you have perfect co2 it will only have so much of an impact on algae issues since co2 is directly related to the plant mass and how well they're growing. It is not an algaecide.

I can't tell if the light is strong enough, but you still need a certain amount of light, co2 and if your only dosing Flourish that's a problem as well. You need Macros (NPK) if your using co2 and adequate light to reach the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Ok so I need to order macro ferts. I'll do that and leave the co2 on the timer till the ph controller comes.
I can imagine that there really is no way to assure light is reaching the bottom of the tank. I assume that adding additional light will just cause more issues ?

Is this a good fert ?
http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/index.asp?Option1=inven&EditU=5&Regit=20

I haven't had a chance to go thru that entire 48 ph thread kindly linked above. But does it say in there how much to dose for a 90 gallon ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,221 Posts
It is a good company, been in business for years.

Yes it does - on the first page! The company you linked to for fertilizer has that information as well.

That fertilizer lacks phosphorus. I'd buy this and this instead. Each bag will last a good long time and you would order a new bag when it runs out. That micro mix will last for a couple years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so I got the ferts and have been dosing about 6-7ml daily
The BBA is still thriving. We cleaned a lot off and pulled leaves yet it seems like it just bloomed again out of no where. Excel should be getting delivered Sunday. So I'm gonna try to use that too. My question is how do I avoid overdosing the tank with co2. I read that it's kinda the point. But with the pressurized co2...I'm weary. It's practically on all the plants along with some fuzzy green algae. I took pics. We have pressurized co2 so I took a pic of the dials cause I'm not sure how to read how much ppm are going in. Our ph controller remains at a steady 6.8 throughout the day/night. I'm honestly tempted to just chop all the plants at the bases and wait for them to grow back. Lol.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,012 Posts
The purpose of a drop checker, used with 4 dKH water in it, is to give you a way to get a significant amount of CO2 in the water, without worrying about the fish. If you get the drop checker fluid to be green you will have enough CO2 to help the plants, but probably not the optimum amount. Without the drop checker, unless you are not worried about the fish, you probably will never have enough to do the plants any good. So:
First: make sure you are using 4 dKH water in the drop checker, water that is distilled or RO/DI, with nothing added to it but ordinary baking soda, bicarbonate of soda, until it has a KH of 4 German degrees of KH (dKH). Add a couple of drops of API pH reagent to that, the pH test that is yellow at about 6 pH, and blue at about 7.5 pH.
Second: Slowly increase the CO2 bubble rate until, after 2 hours, the drop checker is a green color.
Third: If you want to adjust the bubble rate to what is optimum for your tank, it takes several days to do it. The process is to slightly raise the bubble rate, observe the plants and fish, and if the plants seem to do better, and the fish are not obviously distressed, after a week or so, repeat the process. Do this until an increase shows no plant improvement, or until the fish seem to be in distress. Then back off the bubble rate to the previous setting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
We have a drop checker from Green Leaf aquarium. We set it up to their specifications. The colors match up perfectly and our PH controller gives us a reading of 6.8. I'm just a bit worried about using Excel liquid carbon to try to eradicate the algae in the tank cause I feel like we would need to use alot of excel to properly shoot at the algae ridden areas. And with that combine with our pressurized Co2 that the fish will be negatively affected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,273 Posts
Agree with hoppy's instruction for CO2.

The "fuzzy green algae" is not BBA. You do not need to remove the plant leaves or treat with excel to erradicate this algae. Unlike BBA this algae can die rather fast and the leaves will remain clean. You can remove most of it with a toothbrush, but you need to remove the root cause (organic mass in the filter stated earlier)

Hopefully this helps reduce the amount of Excel needed. Only use Excel to destroy BBA or staghorn. When you spot dose, my recommendation is to never dose more than the total amount suggested for that aquarium volume. If you cannot cover all the targets in one go, repeat in the next days.

As always monitor your fish and if distress signs are notices increase the surface agitation.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top