I have pressurized Co2, and Im moderately new (6 months) to it.....I know that Co2 is supposed to be off at night...but....I'm wondering if I can lower the bubble count slightly, and keep it on 24.7 and still have the same results. My Ph seems to fluctuate a little too much for the livestock when its turned off at night(celebes and threadfins seem to be the most sensitive) I haven't lost any, but for the first few hours in the morning after I turn the system on, they hover at the top, The average change in Ph is from 7.4 at night and 6.9 during the day......When I have the extra $ I'll invest in one of those fancy shmancy ph regulators that hooks up to the Co2, but I'm in need of a free solution for now. So, How many bubbles per minute if I'm leaving it on 24/7? Whats the downside to leaving it on fulltime? How much will my plants suffer?
Co2 24/7?
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Some people recommend against turning the CO2 off at night due to pH fluctuations. What I plan to do personally is run an airstone when the lights go out and leave CO2 running. This will help keep the water oxygenated at night for the fish and shouldn't mess with the pH too much.
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By not turning off CO2 at night, your pH will continue to drop slightly. I don't see how keeping the CO2 on at night will keep your pH stable.
The pH change from injecting CO2 is not too significant and does not represent a major hazard for even sensitive fish. I believe we place too much emphasis on the stability of pH in the aquarium, even when fish in the natural habitats experience pH changes on a regular basis.
You don't really need to spend money on a pH controller at all; in my opinion it is an unnecessary expense. You can purchase a solenoid (about 20-30 USD) that will allow your CO2 to be controlled via a timer.
CO2 does not "need" to be off at night, but by turning it off at night, you save gas. You can keep it on 24/7 and simply lower your bubble count, or if you are extremely worried, you can use an airstone that is set on a timer to come on at night. The extra surface agitation will prevent the CO2 from suffocating your fish. The only disadvantage there is with leaving CO2 on all the time is that you will run through the gas faster. Your plants will not suffer with more CO2.
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I agree with Darkblade48 a good solenoid and a good needle valve (Ideal or Swagelok) will do you more good than a pH Controller for end of tank dumps and fine bubble control. Sumo's 'Post Body Kit' has everything you need except the regulator tho I'd switch out the solenoid if it were me.
- Brad
- Brad
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I agree as well. Solenoid valve with a timer is all you need. You won't see any benefit from running co2 24/7, believe me. And ph drop from 7.4 to 6.9 is not a big issue. In my understanding of relation between ph and co2, you can lower your ph too much running a pressurized co2 into your tank. What I mean is that it's much more likely that to kill your fish from co2 poisoning when you dissolve too much co2 in the water than from a ph drop.
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I set my CO2 to be on 30 minutes prior to my lights coming on, and to turn off 30 minutes prior to my lights turning off.
The pet store just wants to make money, hence their promoting the necessity of a pH meter.
GRRRR that makes me thoroughly disappointed in my LFS. Any suggestions on which solenoid valve w/timer to go with? what is the average amount of $ one should spend on a decent one?
Out of spite I will not be ordering it through the LFS
Out of spite I will not be ordering it through the LFS
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Howdy neighbor. I'm 25 miles up the road from you. Do you shop at Aquamain's?GRRRR that makes me thoroughly disappointed in my LFS. Any suggestions on which solenoid valve w/timer to go with? what is the average amount of $ one should spend on a decent one?
Out of spite I will not be ordering it through the LFS
What regulator do you have now? Do you have a link to it or a picture?
Solenoids can be mounted on the regulator or they can be mounter inline. We need to know what you have. Below are three of the most commonly used solenoids.
Clippard's solenoid mounts on the regulator: http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#solenoid
Burkerts regulator mounts on the regulator: http://www.aquariumplants.com/Burkert_Brass_Solenoid_Valve_Type_6011_p/bu6011.htm
Aqua Medic's solenoid mounts inline to the tubing: http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsCA/ctl3684/cp18478/si1379605/cl0/aquamedicaqualinesolenoidvalve
http://www.aquariumplants.com/CO2_Solenoid_Valve_p/am73007.htm
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I've always run co2 24/7 with just enough surface turbulence to eliminate surface scum. Bubble rate at about 2 bps and a lime green 4 kdh drop checker (co2 30 ppm) in a 46 gallon aquarium. Since a 20 oz paintball tank would last a month, I never felt to concerned with wasting co2. With the surface movement that I have, it would take a considerable and very noticeable increase in co2 to kill my fish. So far, I've never had fish hovering at the surface.
That being said, I will probably receive my solenoid tomorrow. After all, I like to tinker and experiment also. Initially, I plan to set the timer to run the co2 for 12 hours on and 12 hours off. My lights are 4x39 watt T5ho that run for 10 hours. If I get no increase in algae, I will probably very slowly adjust the lights to run 2 bulbs for 12 hours and all 4 for 8 to 10 hours. Whatever I can get away with algae wise and trimming wise.
All and all, I would argue that the solenoid isn't really necessary either, as long as you keep some surface movement going and you don't try pushing 40 ppm co2 into the tank. It will be nice to just pull the plug on the solenoid during water changes though, instead of finding the screw driver and turn the working pressure all the way down. Then turn the working pressure back up when the water is back in. Of course being lazy, I would sometimes observe a couple huge bubbles coming out when I turned the filter on. :hihi:
That being said, I will probably receive my solenoid tomorrow. After all, I like to tinker and experiment also. Initially, I plan to set the timer to run the co2 for 12 hours on and 12 hours off. My lights are 4x39 watt T5ho that run for 10 hours. If I get no increase in algae, I will probably very slowly adjust the lights to run 2 bulbs for 12 hours and all 4 for 8 to 10 hours. Whatever I can get away with algae wise and trimming wise.
All and all, I would argue that the solenoid isn't really necessary either, as long as you keep some surface movement going and you don't try pushing 40 ppm co2 into the tank. It will be nice to just pull the plug on the solenoid during water changes though, instead of finding the screw driver and turn the working pressure all the way down. Then turn the working pressure back up when the water is back in. Of course being lazy, I would sometimes observe a couple huge bubbles coming out when I turned the filter on. :hihi:
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