The Planted Tank Forum banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,949 Posts
Thank you for all your help, that’s why I love this forum, you guys are so helpful. One thing I forgot to ask. My diffuser, I have it placed about 2 inches off the substrate directly below the HoB filter so the bubbles rise and then are moved around the tank by the flow of the filter. Would this be the best placement or should it be neat the front where the flow hits the glass before returing to the intake?
As long as the stream of co2 is getting to the mouth of the HOB return (instead of behind it) that should be fine. You could play around with it and see where you get the most efficiency. That being said co2 is cheap, so you could also turn it up more to compensate. In general co2 and HOBs aren't usually the greatest combo since co2 is lost by the surface exchange. Raising the water level of course helps but with an open-top you risk fish jumping.

That rimless is calling out for a canister with lily pipes, but I understand if you don't want the added maintenance, etc.

Another thing I should point out is that tall tanks have small footprints. Which means you have less plant mass by volume. Because it doesn't have the small plant mass as a shallow tank, maintenance, feeding, stocking, lighting, etc becomes more critical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
@Asteroid I was considering a canister with glass lily pipes. That tank is meant to be a showcase tank so it's all about the scaping hence the need for me to get this right. I don't mind the maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,949 Posts
@Asteroid I was considering a canister with glass lily pipes. That tank is meant to be a showcase tank so it's all about the scaping hence the need for me to get this right. I don't mind the maintenance.
Sounds good, the lily pipes will look better and functionally give you more flexibility with co2 distribution.
 

·
Registered
No longer a newbie.
Joined
·
187 Posts
I agree with the canister and lily pipes. Having a lily outflow allows you to get a nice surface ripple that extends across most of the water surface. A lot of plants in my experience seem to grow better with decent flow as opposed to none and/or dead spots in the tank. You will be surprised how much you may have to up the co2 once you achieve proper flow. It's true that you will unintentionally gas off some co2 but as long as you have a reputable source to get refills from its not going to break the bank or anything. On my 5 gallon shallow I'm running like 2bps because of the amount of surface agitation. It's true that plants appreciate a high co2 saturation, but add good o2 saturation in conjunction with co2 will make for some very happy plants indeed.

Another benefit of a canister is allowing more space for proper bio media that you can't normally fit in an HOB. You could toss some purigen in your new canister which shouldn't be a cheat code or anything, but will help absorb any excess organic waste from feedings, dying algae, or rotting plant matter which if left in the water column otherwise would exasperate your algae problem.

UNS has a canister line and the delta 30 or 60 would be a good size for your tank. Finnex compact canister is a good cheaper alternative and can be fitted to hang on the back of the tank like an HOB. I think the UNS delta 30 can also be fitted this way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
@Greggz i did a ph test an hour before co2 came on and an hour afte it was on just before the lights turned on and before it was 8.0 and after it was 7.0 so 1 point drop Done with api liquid test. Without a probe, would this be what I’m looking for. I know it is just a guide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,083 Posts
@Greggz i did a ph test an hour before co2 came on and an hour afte it was on just before the lights turned on and before it was 8.0 and after it was 7.0 so 1 point drop Done with api liquid test. Without a probe, would this be what I’m looking for. I know it is just a guide.
It's very likely good. But still hard to say for sure as API test can be off by quite a bit. What you see as 7.0 someone else may see as 7.2. And what you see as 8.0 someone else might see 7.8.

Keep in most tanks do not fully degas overnight. So you're true degassed pH is likely higher than you are measuring. So with a one point drop from just before CO2 comes on you should be OK.

What did the drop checker look like?? Should be pretty close to full yellow based on what you are reporting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
It's very likely good. But still hard to say for sure as API test can be off by quite a bit. What you see as 7.0 someone else may see as 7.2. And what you see as 8.0 someone else might see 7.8.

Keep in most tanks do not fully degas overnight. So you're true degassed pH is likely higher than you are measuring. So with a one point drop from just before CO2 comes on you should be OK.

What did the drop checker look like?? Should be pretty close to full yellow based on what you are reporting.
No the drop checker was blue but we had to go out so I didn't see how long it took to turn green but we have come home 2hrs later and the checker is green and the pH is 6.6
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,083 Posts
No the drop checker was blue but we had to go out so I didn't see how long it took to turn green but we have come home 2hrs later and the checker is green and the pH is 6.6
If you really had a drop from 8.0 to 6.6 the drop checker would be screaming yellow. But a drop checker is a lagging indicator so it shows where the pH was a couple of hours ago.

Keep a close eye on it today. If it starts turning more lime green then you are on the right track.

And keep on eye on livestock. If they start going to the surface back off a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
If you really had a drop from 8.0 to 6.6 the drop checker would be screaming yellow. But a drop checker is a lagging indicator so it shows where the pH was a couple of hours ago.

Keep a close eye on it today. If it starts turning more lime green then you are on the right track.

And keep on eye on livestock. If they start going to the surface back off a bit.
This is where im my own worst enemy. Since that last message I started to do a small water change and in the process pulled up some of the plants trying to get the algae off so I've removed the livestock to another tank and did a thorough clean and rescape. Will refill, and get it all running again and then monitor everything without livestock cause the neons were at the surface so I had a feeling there was too much co2. I've got a day off Tuesday so I'll time the co2 to change the drop checker to lime green and monitor pH as well. I'd rather play around with it without fish in the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Well I changed the lighting, got the co2 dialed in and I’m still getting algae issues.. these are 2 days after a 30% water change. Don’t know where to turn from here.
Hair Plant Water Eye Terrestrial plant

Water Plant Organism Terrestrial plant Underwater
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
hows it going with your tank? i only ask as its been a few days now..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
How about the algae on the leaves?
That's disappearing too, it still appears after about 4 days but nowhere as thick and is easily cleaned off. I'll leave it another couple of weeks to settle down completely and then I'll start dosing liquid ferts again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
That's disappearing too, it still appears after about 4 days but nowhere as thick and is easily cleaned off. I'll leave it another couple of weeks to settle down completely and then I'll start dosing liquid ferts again.
So after everything that you learned in this thread, and the actions that you took, what would you say as a leading cause of the algae issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I’d say the light being way too powerful but it wasn’t one single thing. It was a case of finding that balance. The light I have now is sufficient to start the rotala H’ra tips going red and the growth on the other plants is noticeable. I
really appreciate all the help Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
I’d say the light being way too powerful but it wasn’t one single thing. It was a case of finding that balance. The light I have now is sufficient to start the rotala H’ra tips going red and the growth on the other plants is noticeable. I
really appreciate all the help Thank you.
I'm here to learn. I didn't offer any help lol. I have very minor hair algae. Still finding my balance.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top