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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tomorrow I am going to do a large water change, remove my driftwood with Chrismas moss and Anubias, pull up my hygro stems and spray them all down with standard 3% H2O2, then rinse them off, and place them back in the tank after the water change. How long do I leave the H2O2 on before rinsing? Will this treatment be safe for my plants, Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Were it me, I would leave the plant's in the tank ,remove the media from the filter(s) and place the media in a bucket of aquarium water or dechlorinated tap water and dose the tank with 3 tablespoon's (per 10 gal) of 3% peroxide and let the filter's circulate the water in the tank for 15 minutes.(no more ,no less)
Then perform 50 % water change,place media back into the filter's and start em up.
Should see the BBA,BGA,start to die off within a day or two.
I also would reduce light period by an hour or two,(most folk's use too much light for too long)and step up filter maint to once every three week's,reduce food's entering the tank.
If you will do these thing's, then the algae won't find condition's suitable,and plant's will do better, and this is what you want.
Dose of peroxide suggested should not pose problem's for fishes/shrimp's.
 

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Thank you roadmaster for your input.

Well I do not appear to have suffered any losses. In fact I found 5 baby neo's in the cannister, so I actually came out +5. Could I, or should I do a follow up treatment, if so, how long should I wait. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know it's a noob question, but what's a neo?
Its a shortened form of the scientific name of Red Cherry Shrimp and their close relatives, (Neocaridina Davidi). Mine are a blue form called Blue Diamond Shrimp
 

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Thank you roadmaster for your input.

Well I do not appear to have suffered any losses. In fact I found 5 baby neo's in the cannister, so I actually came out +5. Could I, or should I do a follow up treatment, if so, how long should I wait. Thanks again.
By reducing light energy/duration and afore mentioned stepped up filter maint,less food's entering the tank,I have not found a follow up treatment needed.
If you wait a week,there should be clear evidence that the algae is dying/dead.(hopefully not to return)
If one does not correct the condition's that allowed it to appear in the first place,then it will return.
If lowering the light energy(key player), result's in slower growth with no algae,then I'm good with this.
I try to focus on what plant's need (macros/micros.lower light intensity) and have found that algae is less of a problem.
I would use same treatment if needed after a couple week's but only if,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
By reducing light energy/duration and afore mentioned stepped up filter maint,less food's entering the tank,I have not found a follow up treatment needed.
If you wait a week,there should be clear evidence that the algae is dying/dead.(hopefully not to return)
If one does not correct the condition's that allowed it to appear in the first place,then it will return.
If lowering the light energy(key player), result's in slower growth with no algae,then I'm good with this.
I try to focus on what plant's need (macros/micros.lower light intensity) and have found that algae is less of a problem.
I would use same treatment if needed after a couple week's but only if,,,
My light period is at 7 hours a day. Finnex Stingray at 20" above substrate. I keep my NPK at around 5-1-5, and dose Flourish for micros weekly. I am also dosing Excel. I am feeding my critters very little, but I still seem to have a rise in TDS that requires 50% weekly water changes, and I do gass off my change water for 24 hours with a bubbler first. I spent less time taking care of my high tech 46 gallon bow tank, than I am with this one. Low tech my eye. That all being said, all the BBA I can see is pink right now, so looks like I'm headed in the right direction at least.
 

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I personally believe accumulative organic matter whether it is trapped on/in filter material,or in/on wood, or under substrate, to be fuel for the growth of BGA,BBA.
Some folk's with sand substrates feel the need to poke or sift the sand, and this is fine if it gives them comfort ,but best to syphon the substrate first before poking/sifting lest we bury that which we wish to remove.
Not sayin you are,,just sayin.
If lighting period has always been 7 hours as you state it is now,perhaps six hours would be my plan and a few more plant's.
If lighting has been reduced recently to 7 hour's from 8 to 10 hours, then more time going by ,patience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I've wondered about organic matter. I do have a lot of wood in this little tank. The purigen keeps the tannins at bay, but I am using only coarse filter pads. I have been thinking about finding something finer for my HOB.

By the way, this treatment certainly cut down on the trumpet snail population, which is fine.
 
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