The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
am i supposed to be shooting for 5 ppm N in my dosing and 20 ppm K and 1-2 ppm P?
that would have me dosing 3/4 tsp KNO3 for a 6.07 ppm N and with that comes 3.83 ppm K
in order for my k to reach 20 ppm
i would have to dose around 2.75 tsp KSO4 to acheive 17.47 ppm K + 3.83=21.3 ppm K

that seems like a lot of kso4 to achieve the required 20 ppm k
and is the leftover so4 safe in that quantity?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,157 Posts
So for a tank around 100gal to 130gal dosing should be:

1 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week
1/2 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
1/2 tsp (30ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change

that's using EI dosing but that gives you 4.5 tsp for a week which is more than you should need but with the 50% water change it will help remove the extra ferts.

- Brad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well im not going to dose the mono potassium phosphate since i have discus and the foods they are fed are typically high in phosphates so that should cover my phosphate dosing
thats why im going with the potassium sulfate
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,009 Posts
The older versions of EI used equal amounts of KH2PO4 and K2SO4. Later on, the K2SO4 was removed and replaced with GH Booster. I think that this is what you are looking for.

Below are the ppm's of each compound and the total for your aquarium.


for 115g, each dose is:

1 1/2 tsp KNO3 = 10.99 ppm NO3 and 6.93 ppm K

1/2 tsp KH2PO4 = 4.49 ppm PO4 and 1.85 ppm K

1/2 tsp K2SO4 = 3.3 ppm K
__________________________________________________

Total =
10.99 ppm NO3
4.49 ppm PO4
12.08 ppm K
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
LeftC
i c... so im not really shooting for 20 ppm of potassium? shooting for around equal parts K and NO3? according to the dosing you are showing above

and since im planning on having enough phosphates from the digested food and uneaten food i can just nix the KH2PO4 right?

LeftC
in the dosing you show above which element will most likely become the limiting agent?

i am actually dosing to make sure i have enough K was my worry... but fill me in on something that i do not know... i need help lost in reading..
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,009 Posts
Are you adding CO2 or Excel?

What is your lighting?

If you don't have bright lighting and CO2, EI may not be for you. PPS-Pro???

Are your plants showing any K deficiencies?

Are your plants showing any deficiencies?

Left C
i c... so im not really shooting for 20 ppm of potassium? shooting for around equal parts K and NO3? according to the dosing you are showing above

and since im planning on having enough phosphates from the digested food and uneaten food i can just nix the KH2PO4 right?
Those are the EI amounts. I used the fertilator to calculate the ppm's.

Try EI and adjust as you need to if your aquarium set up warrants it. Or try ½ EI and adjust as needed.

I have no idea how much PO4 you will be getting from the leftover food and fish poop.

You will see people report that they have to 2 to 5 ppm PO4 without problems.

Will this level bother your discus? I have no idea.

Left C
in the dosing you show above which element will most likely become the limiting agent?

i am actually dosing to make sure i have enough K was my worry... but fill me in on something that i do not know... i need help lost in reading..
None should be limiting. That is what EI is about.

Some people don't dose K2SO4. More than likely, there is enough K in the KNO3 dose. 6.93 ppm K in KNO3 3x weekly = 20.79 ppm of K dosed for the week.

Will increasing or tailoring nutrient dosing bother your discus?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no idea on the plant deficiencies yet just planted an hc foreground...
tried dry starting but plants started to melt so i filled the tank and just letting the carpet fill in but the hc is doing ok as of now but seems kind of stagnant... but i also think its only because it has been in there 1 week so far and needs time to settle in and take hold

i am using turface as a substrate with a very thin layer of peat underneath of it and the whole thing is capped with pfs

i am injecting pressurized co2 till so my drop checker is green with a 4dkh solution
i have 260watts of compact fluorescence over a tank with a blueprint of 60l x 18w x 24d which is approximately 115 gal which gives me around 2.25 wpg i have been informed that this should be sufficient lighting

i think that the least amount of leftover nutrients in the water is the best plan of attack for my fish... most of the time discus "call" for very clean water with the fewest DOC's possible... but these ones are 5"ers so im not TOO worried about the pristine water for them...

new to the dosing as i have just gotten my pressurized set up and just want to make sure im doing things right before i start to go crazy
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,009 Posts
... new to the dosing as i have just gotten my pressurized set up and just want to make sure im doing things right before i start to go crazy
I did pages and pages of the calculations involved from using the various dosing plans. It about drove me nuts. :LOL: :icon_lol:

EI is the dosing plan that worked for me. I had to tailor it for my aquariums, tap water and water change schedule. After I settled down, everything has been going well. I haven't had discus, but I have kept various species of dwarf cichlids with good success.

I'm sure that you've seen many posts concerning having good CO2 saturation throughout the aquarium. Tom posted some very important comments about CO2 on his site. The following is quoted from: http://www.barrreport.com/co2-aquat...2-regulator-pressure-behaviour.html#post41069

My kingdom for a nice CO2 solution:eek:

A good regulator is well worth the effort, same for a needle valve and solenoid.

From there, we can move downstream to a good bubble counter, check valve and then finally to CO2 diffusion.

Each point is critical.

Once in the water, CO2 needs measured somehow or careful eyeballing (fish, plants, algae etc). Riccia seems to do well attached to stones.

Pearls well 1/2 way through the day when CO2 is good. If not, not enough CO2.

If plants are happy, no algae, fish fine, then do not add more.

We can easily mitigate CO2 stress several ways and have much more effective management:

1. Good flow, not enough to break the water's surface but a little less than that is a good rule of green thumb.
2. Good quality CO2 equipment and Gas tanks, needle valve.
3. Effective measurement (harder)- relative measurement once you know what to look for.
4. Less light= less CO2 demand from plants
5. Good filter, routine cleaning, water changes often=> less organic decomposition and O2 draw
6. Reasonable long term fish load (not overstocking)
7. Smaller fish= less O2 than larger say Discus etc requirements (the answer why is obvious, think about it- do not answer PKM! Let them think about it))
8. Good dosing, good feeding of fish
9. Riccia rock, about 1/2 way through the day, the riccia stone will start to pearl well (biotest). This suggests good CO2.
10. Watch the tank, respect CO2, adjust methodically and carefully.

Not quite as simple as it seems.
Sadly, many give it a passing fancy at best.
Guess they know it all with respect to CO2?
Must be nice.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
here im going to start a tank journal... meet me on the otherside
i have sufficient co2 distribution and flow through my tank this thread is starting to get a little derailed
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top