Most people plant their tanks first, flood, add their ammonia source. Concentrations of ammonia at 2-3PPM won't harm plants - even moss.Then we have fishless cycling with added ammonia or organic matter. Guessing this works best with an empty aquarium?
You should never have to clean your substrate in a planted tank. Nothing beyond gently siphoning detritus from the surface of the substrate, anyway. And you wouldn't want to disturb a dirt or clay-based substrate.Then we still have cycling with nothing but soil in the tank. To me this seems like the best way to go, the leaking ammonia from the tank feeds the bacteria and you don't have to clean the substrate or do water changes during the cycle.
If you're using a product like ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia, water changes are almost always necessary during the initial cycling process because ammonia concentrations are high. Daily for a week and less frequently for the next 3 weeks, generally. It's a lot of water. (Though, I only really do water changes with ADA products if the ammonia concentration ends up being higher than 7-8PPM.)
I tend to add floating plants to my tanks after they're 'cycled' just so there's less chance for me to disturb them. But most like Frogbit should be able to handle some ammonia.Lastly, cycling with soil, hardy plants and floaters. This seems like a good way to go about my cycle as well, setting up the basic plants while floaters take up quite a lot of the ammonia.
If you want to do as few water changes as possible while cycling, may be a good idea to go with an inert substrate like sand or fine gravel. Then use liquid ammonia (no surfactants) or a an ammonia/ammonium product from a company like Dr. Tim's or Fritz Aquatics to dose the tank to 2-3PPM. Keep it at 2-3PPM for several weeks until the tank can process all the ammonia in 24 hours or less. This is a good primer on the fishless cycle.
The only water change you'd need to do is a 100% change the day before or the day you add all of your livestock.