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I am about to set up my co2 system and was wondering how many check valves I should include and where? Thanks in advance.

Oh it's high tech system not DIY if that helps
 

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You only need one and it doesn't need to be hard-plumbed to the CO2 system. An inexpensive plastic one works just as well (and sometimes better) than the expensive metal ones. It should be placed inline close to the reactor/diffuser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have 3 plastic ones but they are designed for co2 lines. I do have a bubble counter. I figure I might as well put 2 one there then
 

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I have a motley collection of plastic check valves: eBay, Deep Blue, Fluval, and so forth. As I am replacing one co2 tank right now, I find my needle valve full of water. And I use 3 check valves between a bubble counter and the diffuser. No one seems to be able to manufacture a simple one-way gizmo.

v3
 

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I have a motley collection of plastic check valves: eBay, Deep Blue, Fluval, and so forth. As I am replacing one co2 tank right now, I find my needle valve full of water. And I use 3 check valves between a bubble counter and the diffuser. No one seems to be able to manufacture a simple one-way gizmo.

v3
Use smaller diameter inner tubing. The smaller it is, the less likely water will traverse down it.

Also, water/fluid in the NV won't damage it. Just wait for it to dry, which can take forever in such tight spaces. Increasing ambient temperature can help speed evaporation.
 

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Use smaller diameter inner tubing. The smaller it is, the less likely water will traverse down it.

Also, water/fluid in the NV won't damage it. Just wait for it to dry, which can take forever in such tight spaces. Increasing ambient temperature can help speed evaporation.
Ugh, like what? Down from 4mm to 0? And heat the needle valve to 100℃?

Any other practical advise? I could still fit couple of laughs in today.

v3
 

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Friend, could please provide links to the co2 tubing and check valves to fit it that you are using? Thanks much!

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An inexpensive plastic one works just as well (and sometimes better) than the expensive metal ones.
W/ caveats..
I run 2 from the LFS and one is worthless.. the other (sold as the cheaper model) at least holds back the water the first lets in.. ;)

The type you are using (large disc) are not easy to find locally (haven't tried "real" hard).. in the small size (1/8").. and suspect they work better than what I have..
I still recommend 2, regardless of plastic type..I've read the reviews on the more expensive plastic ones and it is not so "rosy"..

Between the 2 my valve stays dry..;)
 

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Yeah, a lot of the plastic CVs in the market are cheaply and poorly made because we aquarists are cheap and poor. ;D But there are good ones out there if you're willing to spend the money. The one I listed above is made in the USA by Ark-Plas in Texas.
 

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I think there may be some confusion here. Maybe the reference to USP plastics are not made by Arkansas Plastics? I believe Arkansas Plastics are made In Arkansas? Maybe in the Flippin area?

Either way I would suggest the Ark Plas as the better choice. While there, they are a good source for 10-32 fittings to fit Clippard or Fabco items.

Check valves:
http://www.ark-plas.com/products/search.php?c=0&k=check+valve

10-32 fittings:
http://www.ark-plas.com/products/search.php?c=0&k=10-32
 

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USP is a distributor, not a manufacturer. Ark-Plas is made in Texas, according to their website, and does not sell directly to the consumer unless in bulk quantities.

Edit: Oh NVM, I was confused with the Texas convention picture on the homepage. Yeah, it's made in Arkansas.
 

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I find them convenient and easy to work with but if one is not wanting any other parts or enough to make it worth the shipping, a local hobby shop may be a better choice. I usually use cheaper sources like Ark-Plas but I can get the 10-32 fittings at a local RC car shop for 2.49. We can't spend much time looking for parts of that price. Life is a little too short to sweat over a discount on $2-3.
 
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