The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I had how many ml to add to my tanks figured out, but after dosing this morning, I don't think I had it right at all. I think I over dosed. So I'll be doing a large water change, because I don't know if three times to much is going to be harmful.

I am new (obviously!) and recently purchased Flourish, Trace and Excel. I went to a large, well respected aquarium store, and that is what they said I would need.

I do not do CO2 in either tank.

I have a 5 gal. Fluval Spec V with the factory LED lighting, with some plants and a betta. That tank has been up and going since beginning of October. It now has java fern, anubias, wisteria and a few small pieces of crypt.

I also have a 15 gal. that finished cycle about 10 days ago, and now has 6 cherry barbs and 6 pygmy cory. It has a 24" T5 HO dual lamp light fixture -came with a 6,000 K and I replaced the other bulb with a 10,000k full spectrum. It is probably 50-60% planted. Some java fern, anubias, couple different crypts, wisteria, pennywort, bacopa, egeria and a few other things.

The bottle directions say
Flourish 5 ml to 60 gal once or twice a week
Trace 5 ml to 20 gal twice a week
Excel 5 ml to 50 gal every other day, or 5 ml to 10 gal after more than 40% water change.

So -- **IF** I figured this right
5 gal PER TANK... Flourish .4 ml, Trace 1.25 ml, Excel .5 ml

15 gal PER TANK... Flourish 1.25 ml, Trace 3.75 ml, Excel 1.5 ml

It has been a long time since I worked with ratios!

Does this sound correct? Is there any other chemical or fertilizer I should be using?

Thanks so much! This is all pretty confusing when starting out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,819 Posts
I thought I had how many ml to add to my tanks figured out, but after dosing this morning, I don't think I had it right at all. I think I over dosed. So I'll be doing a large water change, because I don't know if three times to much is going to be harmful.

I am new (obviously!) and recently purchased Flourish, Trace and Excel. I went to a large, well respected aquarium store, and that is what they said I would need.

I do not do CO2 in either tank.

I have a 5 gal. Fluval Spec V with the factory LED lighting, with some plants and a betta. That tank has been up and going since beginning of October. It now has java fern, anubias, wisteria and a few small pieces of crypt.

I also have a 15 gal. that finished cycle about 10 days ago, and now has 6 cherry barbs and 6 pygmy cory. It has a 24" T5 HO dual lamp light fixture -came with a 6,000 K and I replaced the other bulb with a 10,000k full spectrum. It is probably 50-60% planted. Some java fern, anubias, couple different crypts, wisteria, pennywort, bacopa, egeria and a few other things.

The bottle directions say
Flourish 5 ml to 60 gal once or twice a week
Trace 5 ml to 20 gal twice a week
Excel 5 ml to 50 gal every other day, or 5 ml to 10 gal after more than 40% water change.

So -- **IF** I figured this right
5 gal PER TANK... Flourish .4 ml, Trace 1.25 ml, Excel .5 ml

15 gal PER TANK... Flourish 1.25 ml, Trace 3.75 ml, Excel 1.5 ml

It has been a long time since I worked with ratios!

Does this sound correct? Is there any other chemical or fertilizer I should be using?

Thanks so much! This is all pretty confusing when starting out!
Hi daylily,

Depending upon how much you added, if you overdosed it should not be critical. Yes, your numbers are correct; your Excel numbers are for the non-'daily' dosing level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for replying to a newbie (blush)

I just finished a 50-60% change in each one. Been a week since the last change. My numbers on Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate have been steady on both tanks, 0 to a trace of ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 5-10 nitrate. When I say a trace of ammonia, it's not really golden yellow, but not as green as the .25 color on my API Freshwater test kit. I'd call it a .10

I probably tripled the Flourish, and doubled the Excel when I did the (mis) calculations that I used this morning. Think I got the Trace right. LOL

You say my Excel is for "non-daily" dosing. I'm not sure what you mean... is it better to do less but do it daily?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,350 Posts
+1 to numbers being correct. Your math is fine. :)

And the ferts recommended by your aquarium store are pretty good too. There are only three nutrients not contained in your fert selection in any appreciable amount: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).

Fish food contains plenty of N and P, often all you'll need.

But it contains very little K. I find deficiencies of K commonplace, unless supplemented. I'd add Flourish Potassium at the recommended dose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,940 Posts
Consider using dry ferts, with what you payed for those commercial liquid ferts you would have had years worth of dry ferts. Ask member "nilocg" he sell them cheap here in the forum.

Regardless of their good reputation stores need to make money and a very profitable way is to sell liquid ferts as they are extremely expensive in comparison with dry ones. That is why they don't sell it dry. Hobbyists in this network usually know better.

I hope I saved you some bucks in 2013 and 2014!

Happy be year!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for mentioning the dry ferts..... I have been reading a bit about them.

I'm not new to gardening - just new to gardening UNDER water.

In my perennial garden, I normally do half the amount of ferts because I don't want it to build up in my soil.

Dosing every other day, twice a week etc... it's hard to wrap my mind around after 35 years of going light on ferts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,721 Posts
In your garden the only way to remove the fertilizer is to deep soak, wash it away. This is a valid gardening method, but wasteful of water and ferts. So the better method is to use less fertilizer and do soil tests occasionally to confirm there is no build up, but enough to keep the plants thriving.

You can adapt either method to the aquarium.
If you allow a slow build up of ferts as a way to be sure there is no shortage, you then need to remove that build up. The EI method is based on that concept.

Dosing less, then monitoring the plants and testing the water to be sure the levels are good without over dosing is a more conservative method, smaller water changes, use less fertilizer.

Notice that both methods can be done with wet or dry fertilizers.

At this point, get used to using the fertilizers, watching the plants, using the test kit.
When you get low on the fertilizers think about how you want to buy them. Buying liquid is convenient, but expensive. But you just have a couple of small, low tech tanks, so you won't be using that much fertilizer.

Dry ferts keep forever as long as they are dry, and are very economical. When you get more or larger tanks the economy of dry ferts will become more and more obvious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you Diana! You have a way of saying things that makes sense to a new person.

Although I would love to step up to a 40 breeder - I want to see how it goes with these two smaller tanks for a while. Make sure I can keep up with the care.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top