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For those of you with a bit more ODNO experience than I:

I currently have a GE ballast made for running 4 F32T8's = 128watts(max). From reading I understand that it can also run 3 F40T12's = 120watts or 2 55watt PC's = 110watts. All 128 watts or less.

I know the ballast is designed to run bulbs 48 inches in length or less. F32 and F40's are 48 inches in length...no problems there. So the main question: can the ballast safely run setups that are more then 48 inches? I would like to apply it to 3 15 watt bulbs connected in series for a total of 54 inches and 45 watts. What would 72 inches of bulb do, as in 2 36 inch bulbs in series?
 

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I have experienced a heat rise (about 6 degrees F) when placing the fixture directly on top of the glass. This was solved by raising the fixture 1 1/2" (the thickness of a 2x4). I cut 2 peices of 2x2 and glued them under the ends of the fixture to allow airflow between the fixture and the glass. The temp. then returned to set point and remained constant. Since then I have gone to PCs but I keep my ODNO fixture on standby, just in case.
 

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GulfCoastAquarian said:
Raf's advice is good. Read through everyone's experiences and try to decide which way to go. Not to influence you, or anything, but if it were me setting up ODNO for a 55g tank right now, here's the setup I'd use.

Ballast
Workhorse 5
I know you can use the Advance ballasts from Home Depot, but the Fulham Workhorse is far more flexible and has a higher power factor (=more light). QUOTE]

Sam, Raf,

Ok I found time to read all 18 pages "WOW" can you imagine when this gets to be 30 pages long!

A Lot of good info, I have a much better understanding now. I am thinking about going to Home Depot but before I do I need to ask how much less power will there be with the Advance ballast. Is this a huge difference between the Advance ballasts and the Workhorse or marginal.

Thanks

Ken
 

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The Workhorse is much lighter though !
 

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I used the advanced ballast from HD and wow!! I keep my tank downstaris and the first couple of days kept wondering how the sun was shining at that part of the room (when you look down the stairs) they are plenty bright! Maybe I will try the workhorse next, but the HD ballasts were easy to get and about the same price
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
You probably won't notice much of a difference switching to the Workhorse. I usually recommend them to people anyway for their added flexibility and slightly higher power factor. All at pretty much the same price.

Glad it's looking good, though!
 

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ok i went out and bought a 4F32T8 GE-432-max-n-ip e ballast from home depot and wired up for 2x and the bulbs were super dim!!!!!!!! is this one of the e-ballasts that dont work????? this ballast can also drive 4 or F32, F25, F17's. i am going to find an advance ballast to solve this!! it is like it sensed the improper wiring and then when in safety mode. please help. i double checked all connections and everything and found nothing!!!!!!!
 

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Has anyone tried to use a new T-5 HO e-ballast on T-8's. Each channel pumps out 54W. The ballasts only have 2 channels. If you just wired 1x that would still be more juice than wiring a regular ballast 2x
 

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Has anyone tried to overdrive one of those round fluorescent lights? I mean the ones bent into a circle shape like my grandma used to have in the kitchen way back in 19XX....? :)

I saw a couple of other people mention in this thread that they have 15 XH tanks. I have one too; it's one of those odball sizes: 12x12x24h. The only fluorescent lights that would fit are those 1/2" thin ones like are used in those battery-powered camping lanterns. I was thinking that one of those round fluorescent lights would work really great.

They come in 9" and 12" diameters I think, and they are about 1" in diameter, which is the same as a T8. Since the cicumference of a circle is Pi times the diameter, that makes the 9" one 28 inches long, and the 12" one 36" long - putting both of them well into the range of "safe to overdrive" if I am understanding what I have read here in this thread.

Let me know what you all think. If I don't get a reply, I'll have to go get some bulbs and some saftey glasses and see if I can't blow something up. :icon_mrgr
 

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I'm wondering what would be best for my 100gal as far as most light for the buck. I'm considering the WH7 or WH8 ballast and ODNO 6500kT8s. What I really want to know is what's the best configuration.
The WH7&8 both output 220watts, but the WH7 has four power leads and the WH8 has 6 power leads. I'm thinking I could use 3bulbs and have 2wires per tube w/ the WH8 rather than going w/ 2 tubes (2wires per tube) or 4 tubes (sinlge lead per tube) w/ the WH7. Just want to know what you pros recommend :) Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
I've got plenty of experience with the WH5, but haven't worked with the 7 or 8 with ODNO. Generally, one WH7 lead = two WH5 leads. So each WH7 lead would power a 55w PC or overdrive a F32T8 tube about 2x.
One WH7 and four 6500k T8's would be a great setup.
 

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Sorry for resurrecting a really old post, but I have a question about overdriving PL (2G11) lamps. For starters, has anyone tried to overdrive this lamp type? Secondly, here is the ballast I have: http://tinyurl.com/7h5jeht, but I can't quite figure out how to connect the two outputs to a single lamp. Any help would be much appreciated.
The wiring diagram on page 6 of the PDF, shows how to wire two PL lamps.

Many years ago, when power compact lamps were newish, several marine tank supply companies sold fixtures using standard four tube 32 ~40 watt ballasts wired to one PLL socket. Those were considered and sold as 65 watt ballasts. I've opened up a couple to install new waterproof end cap & cord assemblies.
I used some running 55 watt GE 9325 lamps on freshwater tanks. I noticed no difference between them and standard off the shelf 65 watt ballasts running the same lamps. Sorry, but I didn't even know what PAR was then so I've no data.
 

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Yes, but I can't figure out how to connect the two outputs to a single lamp in an ODNO configuration.
Newer sockets usually have the two sides connected by a jumper wire. Older ones may not be connected. ODNO makes use of the second output by wiring one to one side of the socket or to one pin on the end of a lamp, and one output to the other side of the socket or the other pin on the lamp. PLL lamps are essentially a long lamp, bent into a U shape. One outer the nearest inner pin are the same as one end of a standard linear lamp. The other outer pin and the one next to it, are the other end of the lamp.

If the socket is already connected by a jumper, you have to cut that.
Here is the diagram, from one of the original articles, that helped me figure out how to wire things.

One note. Though I did experiment with ODNO in the past, and it works, I've come to prefer two T5NO lamps over my tanks.
 

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i live in Tanzania i can not afford the high end lighting for my 20 g tank i have put a t8 fixture on my tank with a normal house hold tube-light made by Philips 14 w how many k value is that if im not mistaken can some one advise me how to go about proper lighting for that tank as for i too have a 70 gal tank well planted but im using direct lighting its a wild tank which is out side having a great plant life i want my 20 gal tank work perfect as a master tank in the living room please advise
 
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