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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Someone is coming over tonight to pick up all the corals, live rock, sand, 'fuge, etc.

Here's my plan - please poke holes into it as necessary. :eek:

Clean out all residual sand and water in tank and sump.

Fill with tapwater and add acid to break down coraline algae.

Run for 1 or 2 weeks as necessary for algae to break down and get rid of any other grunge from the reef.

Empty and refill tank. Run for a few days and clean and empty again.

Place Flourite, rock wall at rear of tank (see picture below).

Fill tank with RO/DI.

Start planting.

Add fish and cycle.

My lighting will be 2x75w VHO (10,000K) and 2x39 T-5 w/ Tek reflectors. Filtration will be overflow dumping into a sump - through filter floss into 3 gallons of bioballs. Return to the tank via WavySea.

Do I need to add CO2 right away or should I wait a few weeks? Anything I'm doing out of order? Missing?

Thanks.


Picture of peninsula tank built into the wall:



The stone wall will go along the back side of the tank to break up the overflow and return as well as form caves for fish.
 

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Nice Tank! Ought to look realy sweet when setup so be sure to post pics here as/when you get things going.

1) What your Fert Regime?

2) That tank is deep from top to bottom so maybe a little more lighting if you want high light loving plants. What is the actual gallons held in this tank? Attempt to get the lighting to around 4 WPG(I would add 1 175 Watt 10,000K Metal Halide bulb to the mix and run it for 4-5 hours per day at noonish), remember light gets dimmer and looses different colors of the spectrum as it passes through water. Here are some link to help.

http://www.aquabotanic.com/lightcompare.htm
http://www.sankey.ws/plantlumen.html


3) I would buy the CO2 gear up front and get it set up so it's ready when your plants are. Add CO2 when you add the bulk of your plants, or up front if adding some "high light loving" plants (Reds Especially) This will keep them growing great.(with ferts of course)

4) Have you thought out your Hardscape like rocks or wood pieces?

5) Make a game plan on paper top down view of the layout then addjust if needed later.

There might be more details than I have given here but I don't want yo to stop thinking yet! Ask more Q's and more people will answer with their ideas.:D

Doug
 

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OK, with that much light you should have lots, and lots of fast growing stems, and add CO2 and dose ferts right away. I've done it 2 times like this, and it works really well. Cover more than 50% of you footprint with plants (75% even better). The cheap fast growing stems can be swapped out slowly for what you finally want in there, but they will help get everything settled.
Check out how to cycle a planted tank (BTW, also check out his method for rinsing fluorite. Works fantastic. Don't be too aggressive, it will breakup and cause more dust.

Why are you planning on using RO\DI? How bad is your tap?
FWIW, my water has a KH of 8 degrees and a GH of 18 degrees.

Don't fill all the way, put about an inch higher than your substrate, then plant. Fill after, fill very gently to keep the fluorite dust cloud down.

In the past I've added fish same day as the plants, but next time I will skip the fish at first, and crank the CO2.

PS. Sad to hear about all the coralline algae going bye-bye!

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any recommendations on a good CO2 set up? Just go with an off the shelf froms Drs. F&S? (tank is 65 gallon - total volume with sump is about 100)

I haven't read up on fertilization regimine yet - that's on the to-do list.

Hardscape will be rock wall on back and driftwood in a "V" (tank is viewable from 3 sides) I'm reading up on the Japanese Zen tanks - I really like that look.

Is using RO/DI overkill? I haven't tested tap for KH or GH, just TDS; it runs about 160.

Also - any recommendations on places to order plants? Live Aquaria or are there better options? I'm in St. Louis if that makes a difference.

(Scraping coraline is one thing I'm not going to miss with a planted tank...)
 

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I used RED to mark my responses with your Q's.

Any recommendations on a good CO2 set up? Just go with an off the shelf froms Drs. F&S? (tank is 65 gallon - total volume with sump is about 100) Everyone has their fav. I would recommend checking here: http://www.nextag.com/aquarium-co2-system/search-html

Hardscape will be rock wall on back and driftwood in a "V" (tank is viewable from 3 sides) I'm reading up on the Japanese Zen tanks - I really like that look. Which Type of Substrate? Eco-Complete is what I have used personally and have had excellent success. Don't mix types as most people have problems with this after the setup is running and they attempt to make changes.:eek:

Is using RO/DI overkill? I haven't tested tap for KH or GH, just TDS; it runs about 160. For the amount of water changing you'll be doing it just is not economicall so go with regular tap dechlorinated from the word GO.

Also - any recommendations on places to order plants? Live Aquaria or are there better options? I'm in St. Louis if that makes a difference. There are as many places as there are people who order. I would suggest the list below for starters and look for the ones elsewhere that have been around for awhile.
http://www.aquabid.com/
http://www.azgardens.com/
and of course at the bottom of PlantedTank forums there is a slew of places in the Sponsors section.

(Scraping coraline is one thing I'm not going to miss with a planted tank...) Yup that stuff is tough to get rid of and scraping scratches the tank usually.
Remember when setting up the Hardscape to keep everything in odd numbers and offset the "V" slightly to one side to get rid of Symetry. Nature is not symetrcial.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
WibblyPig what made you give up your reef? I went to a planted for a new challenge but still kept my 300 gallon reef won't give it up. The planted tank is just as nice to view as the reef.



Time mostly - not having enough of it to take care of things properly.

Between feeding corals & fish on different schedules, mixing and dosing 2 part plus mag., cleaning glass, cleaning the floor after the top-off stuck, cleaning the floor after the RO/DI stuck, cleaning out the skimmer every other day, etc. etc. etc.

My side work is starting to take off (people all over the world are wanting lots of fountains designed) as well as a wife, 6 year old and almost 3 year old.

Sure, I'll miss the look but I won't miss the 3 years of frustration of not being able to get a flow I was happy with (Tunzes, Seios, WavySea, closed loop, etc). Pruning cheato and getting a finger full of bristleworm spines. Cyano, Dinos, etc.

Also, there's something to be said for going out back into the construction yard and picking out stone for free as opposed to spending 6 or 8 bucks a pound...
 

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Time mostly - not having enough of it to take care of things properly.

Between feeding corals & fish on different schedules, mixing and dosing 2 part plus mag., cleaning glass, cleaning the floor after the top-off stuck, cleaning the floor after the RO/DI stuck, cleaning out the skimmer every other day, etc. etc. etc.

My side work is starting to take off (people all over the world are wanting lots of fountains designed) as well as a wife, 6 year old and almost 3 year old.

Sure, I'll miss the look but I won't miss the 3 years of frustration of not being able to get a flow I was happy with (Tunzes, Seios, WavySea, closed loop, etc). Pruning cheato and getting a finger full of bristleworm spines. Cyano, Dinos, etc.

Also, there's something to be said for going out back into the construction yard and picking out stone for free as opposed to spending 6 or 8 bucks a pound...


I hate to tell you this, but a High light planted tank can cost almost as much if not just as much time & money if you let them. :proud:

Read up before you do anything. I'm sure you didn't jump into a reef, Plants can be as difficult as you want to make them.

Check out Rex's Site for good advice.

then check out dosing right here on PT for a no test dosing strategy. Beware it wants 50% weekly water changes.

If you are doing the Zen thing, remember: Time, patience, balance.
"only bad things happen fast"

Walter


There are a lot of different way to do this, but there is a great group here.


Walter
 

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This link http://www.nextag.com/aquarium-co2-system/search-html is pretty much worthless for searching for a CO2 system.

Get a good pressurized system. Eliminate as much water turbulence as you can (in the overflow is a great place to start).

Have your ferts on hand.

For substrate. Aquasoil or Flourite.

And what's with the RO/DI water? Trying to make someone rich by adding back in what the plants need?
 

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I am finding the planted tank to be just as time demanding as my reef. Although I am running a Discus planted right now with the dosing of ferts and water changes I spend less time on my reef. Although reef is set up with auto top off and calcium reactor it seems easier then the planted.
 

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Didn't read Rex Griggs post before posting I would sell off the RODI more money for plants. LOL Use Tap water with prime.
Also if you clean the old reef with a strong vinegar water solution and razorblade, same with all plumbing there is no need to fill and run then drain fill and run again.
You could also loose the wavysea.
 

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Sorry Doug but there are no good options from that link. All the listed pressurized CO2 systems are for nanos.

I have a Milwaukee and an Azoo regulators. Of the two I favor the Azoo because of the fixed working pressure and the needle valve keeps a consistent stream of CO2. Of course the steady stream may, in part, due to the fixed working pressure. When you do start have the CO2 up an running and your ferts in hand.
 

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That link is PERFECT for searching for different co2 systems if someone can READ...
13 matches.

3 matches to a Kent product that has NOTHING to do with a CO2 system. That's 23% bad right there.

5 matches to yeast based systems or refills. That's 38% bad for those. Total bad info so far 61%

2 links to a system that is horribly expensive (disposable cartridges) to run on a 100 gallon setup with an overflow. That's 77% bad info.

2 links to the same product at two different vendors.

So in total you get basically two links to systems that apply to the current question. I call that pretty bad results.
 

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Actually I got the wrong link to "Systems" from my list. Below is the "Systems" Link. Also it is by no means an exaustive list. I have not doubt there are plenty of other links to sites with one or two units each (as my first link had in the list).

So... Sorry for the incorrect link people. I guess I need to read some more myself...

Doug

http://www.nextag.com/co2-system/search-html
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks everyone. So the plan is :

Lose the RO/DI

While the tank is soaking and cleaning, get a pressure CO2 setup that will be injected directly into the return from the sump.

Have the majority of the plants on hand prior to filling.

The new VHO bulbs came yesterday and the Flourite and bioballs should be here today. The corals and rock left yesterday so I'll clean the majority of the mung out and fill it with fresh water and acid to start the transition. (The overflow box, sump chambers, pipes, etc. are all covered in coraline, calcium precipitate and worm tubes so I think that dilute acid will do the best job of cleaning everything)
 

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so I think that dilute acid will do the best job of cleaning everything)
Just to give the Acid a easy job I would use a old non used credit card to remove anything coraline, tubeworm, or other then let the acid go to it. You don't have to be to complete about the scraping just enough to get the big bulky stuff off. Otherwise the acid will become weak before the job is finished and you "may" still have some stuff left anyways.;)

Doug
 
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