[Chiefston]

Temp probe fitting

So, while I wait on some connectors to come in the mail, I tackled how I intend to get the temp probe connected to the filter piping. I was able to cobble together a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 pvc fitting, with the 1/2 side being threaded

I then drilled out the middle of a 1/2 threaded cap and tapped the hole

After tapping the hole and using some teflon tape and an added o-ring, I was able to get the PG-7 cable gland to thread into the cap. Now the temp probe is sitting right in the middle of the 90, which will be coming out of my cerges reactor

 

[JoeFL77]

Dear Chiefston,
do you have a schematic and parts list for the main part of this. I have looked at the sketch and can figure out some. It would save me a tremendous amount of time and trying to figure out things that above my level. Your design looks like it is the perfect prototype for a fresh water planted tank. The code looks well structured and commented.
Thanks,
Joe

 

[Chiefston]

Hey Joe, I can post up the final code later tonight. It is rather messy, as I am not a professional programmer. I will also try and get a parts list out together for ya as well. Thanks for your interest!


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[Whiskey]

This is a REALLY nice project! My Arduino controllers are much simpler, and one major upgrade I'm looking to do to them is add a menu but I must admit I'm a little lost. I'll definitely be looking at your code for some ideas

Thank you!
Whiskey

 

[Chiefston]

Code

Ok, here is my final code. I THINK i have all the bugs worked out. It can get rather messy, especially when setting the aux lights. It kinda grew organically as I went. If you have questions, fire away!

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=61684929673841655159

 

[Cyanider]

Awesome journal. I'm actually getting parts together to build a similar system. Can't wait to see the final product all boxed up!

 

[JoeFL77]

Thanks for code so quickly. It is a large project that looks great. It is like old times. I got a Comp Sci degree in 79. I did a little programming but am a professional pilot to pay the bills.

When I say like old times, I will be printing out the 60+ pages like I used to do. Trying to figure out what it is doing. I love to tinker with things and making a computer control
makes it so much fun.

I bought a leaking 120 gallon aquarium and am resealing it. Making a LED light and want to control everything with the Arduino. You have no idea how great your project is. Getting that amount of code to work is quite an accomplishment.

Got to finish the tree trimming and other projects so I can concentrate on this!

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Chiefston]

Thank you for the kind words Joe! I commented the heck out of the program, so hopefully that'll help you follow along. Lemme know whatcha think when you get done looking it over


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[Fluffles]

This is looking great!
Thanks for sharing the code.

EDIT: Quick question. You use millis() at times to check for updates in your program. Have you considered the case when millis() overflows and restarts at 0? It does take 49 days to overflow, but might be worth considering!

 

[Chiefston]

Fluffles,
I did look into that. With the changes in Arduino 1.0, when they made the millis() an unsigned long, as long as you subtract the previous millis from the current millis, the math works out so that you need not worry about rollover. Or at least thats what I've gathered from reading some posts. I am not entirely positive about that, but thats my understanding

edit: Here is a link explaining. There are many articles explaining this in excruciating detail if you care to read
Working with arduino millis (Easy)
Arduino playground explanation in excruciating detail

 

[mistergreen]

[strike]Are there any devices for the aquarium that uses the Analog write pins?[/strike]
OOps, nevermind. Analog write is pwm.

I can see a sensor using analog read.

I'm building a controller myself using the arduino but web based.

 

[Fluffles]

Fluffles,
I did look into that. With the changes in Arduino 1.0, when they made the millis() an unsigned long, as long as you subtract the previous millis from the current millis, the math works out so that you need not worry about rollover. Or at least thats what I've gathered from reading some posts. I am not entirely positive about that, but thats my understanding

edit: Here is a link explaining. There are many articles explaining this in excruciating detail if you care to read
Working with arduino millis (Easy)
Arduino playground explanation in excruciating detail

Wow, thank you! I didn't know that unsigned long would take care of it. Seems like a very easy and elegant solution to the rollover.

 

[Chiefston]

Box updates

So, I've been working on the project box. I have everything drilled out now, which makes me pretty happy! Now I need to start the final wiring

Top of the box. I have a hole cutout for the fan, which is blowing air out, and the speaker grill which i just drilled a ton of holes for

The front of the box. Here are the pumps and some DIN connectors. The DIN connectors have 5 wires a piece, as well as a gnd if you wanted to use that. 15 connections should be enough for what I'm doing

Here is the USB extension, in case I need to fix some code or add something to it

And the inside of the box as stands. I still need to place the arduino, motor shield, and the perf board in there, but it should all fit easily.

 

[Chiefston]

More build pics

So, I have the 120v wiring done, and everything has been test fitted. Here are some more build pics for you guys.

Close-up of the back of the plugs. All the neutral and ground wires are ran together in parallel. The hot wire goes from the inlet plug, to the SSR's, and then back to the outlet plug hot terminals.

Here I have the fan and speaker mounted. You can see the DIN connectors up top, ready to be soldered to.

Here is a closeup of the SSR's. I have one side of the 120v all tied together to the main hot, then the other side of them goes to the outlet plugs. These SSR's are entirely overkill, they are 220v/25A. The most power I will be drawing is from the 200W Hydor heater, and at 120v that only pulls 1.67A. The Finnex Ray 2's are 20W lights, which pull .67A. The Eheim 2217 is also 20W, and pulls the same. The CO2 solenoid is so weak, it doesn't even manage to pull the minimum required current to make the SSR work properly! I tested it out, and it sure enough, it did not work Instead it gets a reed relay from RadioShack.

And finally, everythings final resting place. The perf board will get many more things added to it. It needs the relay for the CO2, the resistor for the thermistor, two potentiometers (one for the speaker volume, one for the LCD contrast), and a transistor to control the LCD backlight with PWM.

After this is completed, then I get to cut a hole in my stand. I am very worried that I will screw up making the hole for the display...

 

[JoeFL77]

There are many ways to cut a square hole in wood. You may want to practice on a piece of scrap. A router pattern cutting bit works well. A full size router may be too big but a 1/4 trim router is very easy to handle. Harbor Freight sells them very cheap.

I had tried a saber saw to cut the pattern or hole out, but could never cut an absolutely straight line. My solution was to cut rectangles of thin wood on a table saw to make a pattern. Then I would run the router base or pattern bit along the straight wood.

Hope this helps,
Joe

 

[Chiefston]

Update

Joe,
I have a dremel with the router attachment... It has a straight edge guide, so thats what I'll be using! Hopefully I don't ruin the cabinet, or make it look awful. My woodworking skills are terrible enough as is, that I dont need obvious screw-ups making things worse :icon_neut

I did get some more wiring done today. Wiring this thing is rather tedious... It was much easier just plugging stuff into the breadboard. Oh well, it'll be worth it when I'm done

 

[GraphicGr8s]

Sweet.

You do have separate misspelled however

 

[Chiefston]

My big screwup

So, I made a pretty huge mistake.
The way I built the box, with the plugs on the long side, leaves no room for the plugs to fit! When I mount the box inside the stand, there isn't enough room on the front and back to for the plugs in the back, and the din connectors in the front! I'm not really sure how I'm gonna go about getting around this. I could just cut holes in the back of the stand for the plugs to feed through, but then that still leaves the front of the box to shallow for the din connectors! I am very very disappointed in my gross oversight on this matter

 

[mistergreen]

Yeah, I have no idea where I'd put my box either. I built a drawers for fert and fish food. I could clear that out.

Whats the din connector for? I'm planning to use Ethernet rj connectors. Those wires can bend easily in tight spaces.


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[Chiefston]

mistergreen,
Ethernet connectors would work great for connecting the LCD display, I wish I would've thought of that! The RGB strips can pull up to 2.4 amps when using four 24" strips, if all of 3 colors are on full brightness. Even though I won't be keeping the strips on full blast, I don't want to risk melting wires.

I guess since the project enclosure box won't be seen, I can cut new holes for the outlets on the bottom, and I will just have huge holes in the back where they used to be. It will be ugly, but I think it will work. I'm not too enthused about ordering a new box and starting over...