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Cerges' Reactor - DIY Inline CO2 Reactor

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Have to thank our Russian friends for this one. After playing with the Rex Griggs reactor I wanted to try something else. Principal and cost are about the same design is different.

http://translate.google.com/transla...yjj_reaktor_so2.html&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=&ie=UTF-8

What you will need:

Omni OB1 Series A House Filter
2- 1/2" Male Threaded Adaptors with Barb end
2- 3/4" 90 degree Street fitting
2- 3/4" PVC Male Adaptor
2- 3/4" x 1/2" PVC Bushing
1- 3/4" CPVC Coupling - Note this has to be CPVC not PVC as the PVC fittings are too big
1- 6 3/4" x 3/4" CPVC Pipe - Again has to be CPVC and not PVC
PVC Primer and Cement
CO2 Tubing
Teflon Thread Tape
Scissors
Needle Nose Pliers
Filter Tubing
Drill and Drill bit for your CO2 Tubing

Total cost as ~ $23 each about the same as the Rex Griggs inline reactor if you don't use clear pvc.

Filter Housing:





Start by removing the Priming Button via the screw on the inside of the lid for the housing:




Drill out the hole to accept your CO2 tubing this hole shpould be smaller then your CO2 Tubing so it creates its' own seal.



Cut the CO2 tubing at a sharp angle so you can stick it through and pull it with the needle nose pliers. This should be slightly tough to pull through as it will create a seal as you pull the tubing through.





Cut the CPVC pipe off at 6 3/4", if you are using a different filter you may have to adjust the cut off length. I cut mine so it was about 3/4" off the bottom. Push the CPVC coupler over the nipple in the lid, should fit really snug. Then push the CPVC pipe into the coupler. I didn't glue this together as it was a snug fit and should be under little pressure.




Lay out and glue the fittings together, with the fitting I chose you won't need any extra 3/4" pipe as all the fittings go together.





Attach the fittings to each side jsut make sure you hook them up according to the Flow marking on the lid. Finished Product.



I will update tomorrow once I install these as to how effective they are, but based on looks they should function really well. According to the article I linked to about he got a .5 PH change in a matter of minutes.

Craig
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Trying to saturate almost 200 gallons is way beyond my largest, but I know this has been discussed on Barr Report. Some of them switched to Cerges reactors while others added a second Griggs. The drop should be achievable with your starting pH though.

The big thing I noticed most of the guys with large tanks talked about was using a dedicated pump for the CO2 reactor rather than running it through a filter which could do down over time.

Is your sump sealed in any way? Some of them seem to do this while others don't. I'm hoping to try a sump when I get my 75. I have a lot of work to do on the house before I can do that though [emoji14]
If you opt for a sump on your 75g, I strongly suggest you get it drilled for a bean animal type of overflow (ghost overflow box). If I had to do it all over again that would be the number one thing I'd changed. Currently, I have a Herbie overflow method, while it's not as bad as a Durso it's still not dead silent like a bean animal. The other downside to the Herbie method is it requires very precise tuning, you have to get the ball valve just perfect. With the Bean Animal method, there are two proprietary drains and therefore much less finicky when tuning.

I'm hoping to avoid having to purchase and plumb another pump. I don't really have the room under the stand for more electrical either. That will be the absolute last resort as that would require additional changes and overhaul to the plumbing.

I actually went and purchased supplies needed to downsize the output of the reactor down to 1/2" and 3/4". Right now I have the 1/2" already installed and it's working. PH is dropping down into ideal range. However, the flow has also dropped. I'm going to leave it for a day or two and then try the 3/4. I think when I switch to the 3/4 I may add an additional reactor I already have lying around. This would allow me to have higher flow into the display while also giving CO2 more contact time in the reactor to dissolve. Going to keep experimenting to find the best option.
 

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I've tried using the valve on the output of the reactor with no success. The best PH drop I have gotten was opening up the bypass valve to allow more water to flow straight to the display and not to the manifold where the CO2 reactor is plumbed. I have also tried opening the bypass and closing off the output valve, however, that didn't work either.

I experience the same phenomena as you but over time I've come to the conclusion that it's not always a good idea to slow down flow - because a higher concentration of co2 infused water output at a lower rate may be the same as a lower concentration of co2 infused water output at a higher rate. It depends on how much your system degasses and how well the water is getting distributed within the tank. For me, flow is most important. I also use an open sump with a trickle filter which degasses horribly. So to get high flow and lots of oxygenated water which is what I need in a highly stocked tank / sump I've learnt to live with high bps. There are many now who have stopped using bubble counters and flow meters instead to measure co2. I don't think you can have it both ways. I used to fret about getting max efficiency co2 dissolution but always ended up sacrificing something. Then I got a fire extinguisher sized co2 canister and stopped worrying.

If injecting co2 directly into your tank seems more efficient than the cerges then I think you dialled down co2 too much in trying to get it all to dissolve. If you keep bps up and let the micro bubbles exit into the tank but aim the output against the glass so the bubbles are being pushed down then you should be getting the benefits of both in tank diffusion and cerges diffusion. Should be better than either.
 
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Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I couldn't find a better place to ask questions about Cerges reactors and such.

I purchased an Aquaboon whole house filter and would like to have invertebrates in my tank. My thoughts are that brass is a no go due to the copper. I was wondering if anyone tried any of these alternatives.

1. Drill out an undersized hole in a PVC plug. I do not like the idea of drilling into the reactor but I have no problem drilling out a plug (much cheaper if I screw up). Going this direction, how do you determine the size of the hole (assuming 6mm OD tubing)? Since this plug will be inserted into either an insert elbow or Tee, should there be something to prevent it from being pulled out accidentally?

2. Push to connect adapter. Was looking at Home Depot and saw them but noticed they were for liquids only. Searching on Amazon, they do make them for pneumatics. some examples are:

https://www.amazon.com/Metalwork-Pl...rds=6mm+OD+push+to+connect+tube+1/2"+male+NPT
https://www.amazon.com/Legris-Stain...=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin:5485702011&th=1

Will something like this work? If they put nickel over the brass, will I still need to be concerned about the copper? Yeah, I know. It is so little but none is better than some.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Ended up just drilling out a 1/2" NPT plug and forcing the hose through. I think I drilled a 5/32" or 11/64" hole. Boy was it hard to pull through. I pointed for a distance about 1/2" or so and with the help of a pair of needle nose pliers, pulled it through. No leaks. It though seem to stretch out the tubing a little.
 

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Ended up just drilling out a 1/2" NPT plug and forcing the hose through. I think I drilled a 5/32" or 11/64" hole. Boy was it hard to pull through. I pointed for a distance about 1/2" or so and with the help of a pair of needle nose pliers, pulled it through. No leaks. It though seem to stretch out the tubing a little.
I run my this way as well. If you put some lube on the co2 line when you pull it through it helps alot. Never had a leak and it been in constant use for 6 years. I use a Grigg reactor and drilled the hole through the top of the 2" PVC but same difference.
 

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I run my this way as well. If you put some lube on the co2 line when you pull it through it helps alot. Never had a leak and it been in constant use for 6 years. I use a Grigg reactor and drilled the hole through the top of the 2" PVC but same difference.
I kinda did. I used some soapy water on the tubing to help ease it through. Not sure if it would have gone in without it.
 
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