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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
You can find out the PAR info for most commercial brand lights by googling. If you have a non-brand light, you’d have to use a PAR meter. Most carpet plants need around 50 PAR at the substrate, dwarf hair grass being one of them. IME Dwarf hairgrass isn’t the easiest carpeting plant—some easier options would be s repens, dwarf Sagittaria, and crypt parva.

Totally relate to being overwhelmed when you’re getting started, personal experience and persistence are key. I highly recommend https://www.2hraquarist.com/ for some pretty good basic beginner planted tank info. It doesn’t answer everything but it’s a great resource.

What light do you have?
If my light is 95 par at 12"... My Substrate is 18". So does that mean my lights par is 47.5 in my tank?
To be clear the problem with flourish is that it has very little nitrogen in it. Basically its designed for a tank with a lot of fish and not a lot of fast growing plants. The fish provide the nitrogen through their poop. For a tank without fish or a tank with fast growing plants (like carpeting plants) it means you are starving your tank of needed nutrients which is probably why your hair grass is not doing well.

There are a lot of good fertilizer options out there. Personally I don't want a tank that needs my input every day to survive so I use either all in one fertilizer I dose after weekly water changes or I use an auto doser. But other people really like dosing daily and find it helps them keep track of what is going on in their tanks so to each their own.

Anyway since the OP is in the USA I would recommend Nicolg Thrive as the all in one fertilizer. I've been using them for years now and its a really solid product.

To figure out how much light you are producing you can use a lux meter or the lux meter app for smart phone. Take the lux at the same distance from the light as your substrate is from the light. Then divide that number by 80 to get a rough approximation of par. For hair grass you want at least 25 par. Personally I like my light to be around 30-40 for a high tech tank simply because I find this to be enough light to grow anything but not too much that I have to stress about fertilizer being used up before next weeks water change.
That makes sense. I just stocked my tank with about 25 fish, so maybe they will start to do better. I'll wait before I switch fertilizers I suppose.

My light is 95 par at 12". My Substrate is 18"... Does that mean my light in my tank is 47.5? If so, it seems sufficient... Correct?
 

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If my light is 95 par at 12"... My Substrate is 18". So does that mean my lights par is 47.5 in my tank?

That makes sense. I just stocked my tank with about 25 fish, so maybe they will start to do better. I'll wait before I switch fertilizers I suppose.

My light is 95 par at 12". My Substrate is 18"... Does that mean my light in my tank is 47.5? If so, it seems sufficient... Correct?
The math uses the inverse square law. /shrug I just use my par meter to figure it out if I need precision. The rough estimate with a lux meter works well if you just need a ballpark but chances are VERY good that your light is fine for hairgrass. Hairgrass is pretty low maintenance plant for a carpet. If its not doing well I would look to other reasons.

Something not mentioned yet is your water. Do you know ph/gh/kh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The math uses the inverse square law. /shrug I just use my par meter to figure it out if I need precision. The rough estimate with a lux meter works well if you just need a ballpark but chances are VERY good that your light is fine for hairgrass. Hairgrass is pretty low maintenance plant for a carpet. If its not doing well I would look to other reasons.

Something not mentioned yet is your water. Do you know ph/gh/kh?
pH is 6.6 with CO2. 6 out of my tap though, so I'm not sure what raises it really.

GH is high. 260 KH 120

What is your substrate?
Fluval stratum
 

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pH is 6.6 with CO2. 6 out of my tap though, so I'm not sure what raises it really.

GH is high. 260 KH 120
AHHH well that's a horse by a different color. Your tank water is hard, too hard for many plants to thrive. Also you have something in your tank which is making the water even harder. My guess is a rock that is dissolving (or you are doing something odd and putting in crushed coral). A picture of your tank would be very helpful at this point.

Is the 260 gh from your tank or direct from your tap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
AHHH well that's a horse by a different color. Your tank water is hard, too hard for many plants to thrive. Also you have something in your tank which is making the water even harder. My guess is a rock that is dissolving (or you are doing something odd and putting in crushed coral). A picture of your tank would be very helpful at this point.

Is the 260 gh from your tank or direct from your tap?
140 from the tap. I suspect it is the seriyu stone. I was hoping it would go down as the tank established and I've been monitor. So far no change though.
Water Vertebrate Plant Rectangle Pet supply
 

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140 from the tap. I suspect it is the seriyu stone. I was hoping it would go down as the tank established and I've been monitor. So far no change though.
The effect of the seiryu will never stop, but if your tap is softer just make sure you keep up with water changes that will lower it substantially and keep your tank organically low. Your light is probably marginal for growing hairgrass so spreading it out is even more important so light gets in. Some die-off of existing leaves is normal and it's only been a short time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The effect of the seiryu will never stop, but if your tap is softer just make sure you keep up with water changes that will lower it substantially and keep your tank organically low. Your light is probably marginal for growing hairgrass so spreading it out is even more important so light gets in. Some die-off of existing leaves is normal and it's only been a short time.
How much water should I change out? I've been doing 25% weekly. Do you think it's the seriyu stone?

What do you mean "organically low"?
 

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How much water should I change out? I've been doing 25% weekly. Do you think it's the seriyu stone?

What do you mean "organically low"?
No less than 50% each week or 25% semi-weekly. Plenty of hobbyist use seiryu in iwagumi style with hairgrass and other carpets. In a tank like yours with lots of rock/hardscape you don't have the plant mass to process organic waste as quickly as a tank full of stems so you want to rid the tank of organics (food, dying leaves, fish waste), the next best way to do that is big water changes and rely on dosing not fish waste to feed plants. Probably a good idea to dose some macros since your not going to get much from the substrate and relying on fish waste leads to problems in high-tech.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
No less than 50% each week or 25% semi-weekly. Plenty of hobbyist use seiryu in iwagumi style with hairgrass and other carpets. In a tank like yours with lots of rock/hardscape you don't have the plant mass to process organic waste as quickly as a tank full of stems so you want to rid the tank of organics (food, dying leaves, fish waste), the next best way to do that is big water changes and rely on dosing not fish waste to feed plants. Probably a good idea to dose some macros since your not going to get much from the substrate and relying on fish waste leads to problems in high-tech.
So as my plants grow, I'll be better off? What do you suggest for the macros? Currently using flourish and flourish trace.
 

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So as my plants grow, I'll be better off? What do you suggest for the macros? Currently using flourish and flourish trace.
k

Yep, more plants easier it is to control algae since there's more uptake of nutrients. Water changes are important, even more important in tanks not heavily planted. The flourish / flourish trace is fine for the micros, with co2 you should be adding NPK. So it doesn't matter which product you use their all pretty much the same. You can use the Seachem N,P,K (sold separately, but buying all liquid is not cost-effective especially in a 75G. If you buy in powder form it will last forever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
k

Yep, more plants easier it is to control algae since there's more uptake of nutrients. Water changes are important, even more important in tanks not heavily planted. The flourish / flourish trace is fine for the micros, with co2 you should be adding NPK. So it doesn't matter which product you use their all pretty much the same. You can use the Seachem N,P,K (sold separately, but buying all liquid is not cost-effective especially in a 75G. If you buy in powder form it will last forever.
Where can I buy it in powder form? K is iron, correct? Plants should like that. I have a few red ones that need it.
 
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