[Zapins]

Ca deficiency is a possibility, though those are fairly uncommon and there are other potential problems that can cause the same sort of twisting.

Are you using RO water? Do you have a GH test kit you can use?

What are you dosing for nitrates? Do you have a nitrate test kit you can use?

How long have these plants been doing this?

Did you add any magnesium recently?

 

[Zapins]

What size tank is the plant in the picture above from?

Can you do a nitrate test on the water?

Can you take more pictures of the other plants in the tank especially any damaged old leaves?

You wouldn't happen to have a calcium test kit would you? Hagen makes them. Sometimes your LFS will have one that they can use to test your water for you for free.

Your other 10g tank with soil may have similar symptoms but a different problem entirely. You'll need to take photos of those plants as well and post them to be sure.

 

[Zapins]

Hmm. No old growth damage that I can see, coupled with 30 ppm nitrates make this problem unlikely to be a nitrogen deficiency.

When was the last time you did a water change and what % was changed?

When you last did a water change did you add dechlorinator, or possibly delay adding it? Chlorine toxicity can make leaves curl like that if no dechlor is used.

If you didn't forget dechlor, then I'd say yes, time to experiment. You can either wait a week and not change anything, see if the plants recover or get worse. It may be that whatever is causing the problem will either resolve or get worse. If it gets worse the symptoms will become more clear and we can probably figure out what is causing it more easily. If you'd prefer to tinker now you can add some calcium (maybe 2-3 degrees) and see if the leaves uncurl and start growing normally.

If it does turn out to be calcium then this would be a valuable addition to the DeficiencyFinder. Even if it doesn't turn out to be calcium, as long as we can figure out what caused this problem then it would be valuable to add it.

 

[Zapins]

Here is a picture of a chlorine toxicity in Limnophila aromatica.

From:​

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/aquarium-pictures/showimage.php?i=1600&c=12​

 

[Zapins]

I usually do a 50% water change weekly. And honestly once my tanks have been going for a few months I never add dechlorinator. And the could be why my dirted tank is like that. I just too off straight tap.

Yikes. That is probably not a good idea! Your water source must have fairly low levels of chlorine when it reaches your house otherwise you'd likely lose fish and burn plants. Best to add dechlor every time you do a water change or remove it in some other way, it really isn't good for living things.

Also, at certain times during the year the water companies will flush out the pipes by increasing the chlorine level to kill off anything in them. If you do a water change during one of these flushes there is a good chance you'd lose everything in your tank.

Looking back at your plant photos, I noticed that while new leaves are mainly affected the curling extends quite far down the stems which isn't really typical of calcium deficiencies. Calcium issues will affect the top 2-3 sets of leaves maximum and the rest of the plant will be fine. Also, the curling you see with calcium issues looks more like deformed growth rather than fully formed normal shaped leaves that are just bent. Chlorine damage bends normal shaped leaves.

Check the www.DeficiencyFinder.com for calcium deficiency signs in other plant species. You'll see the physical deformity that goes along with the twisted leaves which is not really what you see in your plants.

If I wanted to add the gh booster how do u think I should dose it since I only dose weekly. But the tanks I've had over the last year I've never seen this happen before and like I've said I didn't use the dechlorinator. So I'll give it a shout

I'd hold off on adding the GH booster for now. Give the plants a week or two to recover from the chlorine. I bet you'll see improvements in the new growth. If you add calcium now and dechlor and the plants recover we won't know which caused the plants to respond and I will be unable to add it to the Deficiency Finder. Furthermore, there is no reason to add extra calcium unless you have to. A low GH value is preferable especially for Ammania and Rotala species.

 

[Zapins]

This is what a calcium deficiency looks like in ammania.

From:​

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...15-burned-curled-leaves-tips-how-improve.html​

In Rotala Mexicana ‘Green’:

From:​

http://deficiencyfinder.com/?page_id=370​

 

[Zapins]

It wouldn't hurt to add dechlor now (I would), though in reality the chlorine/chloramine is probably gone or used up by now.

 

[Zapins]

You can use a bucket if you want to be super safe.

I personally use a python to add water directly to the tank and add the dechlorinator in small amounts as the tank is filling up. I do 50% changes in my 90g tank like that.

 

[Zapins]

I've got an RO system set up at my home in CT to my auto water change system along with 110g of RO water on reserve, but not at my Philadelphia apartment, so I use city water here and a mix of RO/well water at home.

 

[Zapins]

I've found they both give good results as long as all nutrients are present, though unless you have something wrong with your water (high heavy metals/GH/KH) then I'd advise using tap water since it is cheaper and easier to get. I suppose if you are doing experiments that require close monitoring of the water parameters or growing soft water species then RO is the way to go.