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So I tore down a couple of 10g tanks to put up a new 30g. I already had a cycled HOB for it, so I decided to do a full clean on my marineland C-160.

After a full cleaning of my old marineland I reassembled it and fired it up this afternoon on the 30g. I did not remove the hoses from the valve block, but cleaned the hoses with a snake after removing the valve block. Everything seemed secure, gave a little tug on the hoses to make sure nothing had loosened during cleaning, everything was tight and seemed in check.

We sit down to watch some tv tonight and all of a sudden I hear gushing water. I jump out of my seat panicked, run to the noise in the kitchen and the intake line has popped right off the valve block and it is emptying the tank all over the kitchen floor. I turn off the power bar to all equipment and plug the loose intake with my thumb.

After inspection, both the ends of the hoses that attach to the valve block seem very stiff, and a little more foggy opaque than the rest of the hoses. So I cut a couple inches off the hoses and hook it back up, with nice clean cuts on more "fresh" pliable hose.

When I went to check the original output hose, it popped right off the barb way too easy after loosening that nut, I remember they were real tight when I assembled it new (3-4 years ago). The new fresh cuts tonight were real tight and hard to put on back on the barbs.

So my questions are, do you people change your hoses often?

The rest of those hoses are super soft and flexible like new, the ends that connect to the intake and output on the tank end were still crazy tight, and not budging.

Does anyone drill a siphon break on their intakes?

If I had not been home it would have emptied the tank.

Luck was on my side tonight.

Oh yeah, water alarm installed under that tank, buying some more alarms tomorrow.

.
 

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Over time those plastic hoses get hard and don't seal as well. I find myself replacing mine ever few years. I have also done the same thing you did, cut the hose back a few inches to get a better part of hose. I usually keep a length of hose around as a spare part, just in case I need it for something.

You could drill a siphon break, but I think it would cause more problems than it would solve. For example, if you are doing a water change, you can break the siphon and you might end up with the filter not restarting and running dry.
 

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The problem seems to be that the tubing is not high quality? I've not used that filter but I also have never needed to change a filter tube that went bad. since it seems to be at the plastic fittings, it sounds like the two plastics are not compatible as one is giving off chemicals which ruin the other?
My thoughts on the siphon break are mixed. While I see the reason for them being good, I also see they could be a major problem at times. How one deals with the break during a water change is one question. Does it make it difficult to restart if the siphon is lost?
I also may have a bit more trouble with loss of water from evaporation. Our relative humidity sometimes drops into the single digits and that does make the water go faster than it might in other places but it is something to think about. When I am out on business for extended periods, my water does dip. If it reached the level of the siphon break, would I come home to find the filter was not running?
For these reasons, I do not use a break and go with trying to assure there are no leaks. A gamble for each of us to decide!
If the tubing degrading might be solved with a switch to other tubing, that might be a thought? For me, that does seem to be a priority to work out .
 

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I have not changed my hose, however on my reactor, I zip tie the hose to the barb to reduce the risk of it popping off, and If i pull the hose off the barb, I trim it down to a tighter part, I use the Sun Sun hoses, which are pretty nice for the price of the filter
 
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