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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Theres alot of writeups out there but alot of them are really complicated due to being built for larger tanks. Ran across a few smaller designs but i didnt like how they were put together, remember simplicity is what im going for.

Since this is going to be for a 30gal, i would guess the design could be alot more simple.

The tank is about 24" x 15".

Being introduced to Google SktechUp, i came up with these blue prints.

I have alot of 2x4s to put to use, so im aiming to use nothing but 2x4s.

Tell me what you think. Remember, this is my FIRST time building anything like this, so i dont know the tips and tricks or how to position each 2x4 for maximum strength. So please look over them and tell me the dos and donts.



After the frame is built, im going to cover them over ADA style.



Thanks
-Q

P.S. Heres the MFK thread if you want to keep updated on my new project.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...d.php?t=277619
 

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The 2 x 4's at the bottom don't contribute much to the stand's strength. Since this is a new type of project for you I suggest you look for steel construction joint reinforcements and use them to make the corner joints. See http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/85748-aquarium-stand-raw-industrial-style.html for ideas on what to use, and how to put it together. This way the plywood skin you plan to use doesn't have to be at all thick. It will just be for appearance, not strength.
 

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2X4s are stronger on edge, id lap the front 2x4s past the sides so they both have bearing on the up rights. definitly use some corner brackets. good luck
 

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Redman88's frame would be ideal for this. Not hard to build, and very rigid, when skinned with any thickness of plywood. You could even use 2 x 3's to build it, if you can find them cheaper. Just remember that you need to sit this up on a 3/4" thick "pedestal" of some sort, such as a piece of 3/4 plywood, so the door has clearance at the bottom to open it. Otherwise the door scrapes the floor when you open it. (Don't ask why I know this.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
^Lol, thats exactly what im looking for. I wonder if i would have to put some type of center bracing to support the center of the tank.

Since its Acrylic and has little plastic supports on the bottom near the center of the tank, i would guess they need some type of surface to sit on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, posted this on 3 different forums. And with all the tips i got this is what i came up with.



Also, this would make it alot stronger, but im not sure if they even make a brace like this. Got any ideas if theres anything like this? Circled in red.



Thanks

P.S. Can anyone tell me how to make a jpeg/png pic through Google SketchUp? I havent figured it out and been doing screen shots and cropping it in photoshop...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So should i ditch the braces? I also noticed an error in my design, how am i going to screw everything together...haha

And to think i work on cars, and im dumbfounded by a simple stand...

Redman, do you have more pics of the stand pictured (not the blueprint)? I want to see how everything is put together on the inside to get a better idea. Thats the design im trying to replicate pretty much.
 

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Nails screws bolts glue?? Many stands built no braces added to keep them together. Since its going to be covered add a few more screws if you want to be on the safe side. My first few must have weighed an extra 10lbs from all the extra screws I added.lol Keep posting so we can see the progress. I knew I saw that multi colored stand somewhere before. Hope the link works as it gives all the deatils on what you need to build it just change sizes of cuts to suit needs.
http://freshwatercichlids.com/do-it-yourself-aquarium-stand
 

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Redman88's frame would be ideal for this. Not hard to build, and very rigid, when skinned with any thickness of plywood. You could even use 2 x 3's to build it, if you can find them cheaper. Just remember that you need to sit this up on a 3/4" thick "pedestal" of some sort, such as a piece of 3/4 plywood, so the door has clearance at the bottom to open it. Otherwise the door scrapes the floor when you open it. (Don't ask why I know this.)
im compelled to ask why you know this hoppy....

so why do you know this?
 

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to me all this for a 30 gallon seems over kill a simple 3/4" plywood stand should be more the enough.... like 370lbs max with substrate and the weight of the tank isn't a lot.. build a ADA style stand and call it a day if you feel the need to add some extra bracing just use 2x2
 

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thats the best picture of the underlaying frame for the stand. all the other pictures i have are from after i started to skin it.
 

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to me all this for a 30 gallon seems over kill a simple 3/4" plywood stand should be more the enough.... like 370lbs max with substrate and the weight of the tank isn't a lot.. build a ADA style stand and call it a day if you feel the need to add some extra bracing just use 2x2
Yes, I would make a stand for that size tank using a sheet of 3/4 plywood. Just make a plywood box, with a hole in the front for the door. Or, best, make a 5 sided box, missing the front, add about a 4 inch wide strip of the same plywood across the top of the open front, to resist any racking, and you have a very strong stand. The door is then easy to cut to fit under that 4 inch strip and extend to the bottom of the stand - to drag across the floor when the door opens. Solve that little problem by putting a very short "pedestal" smaller than the stand footprint by about an inch all around, under the stand. Or, as I had to do, add adjustable feet at each bottom corner, to level the stand, but also to get the clearance to open the door. My stand for a ten gallon tank was my learning experience. To hinge the door, you can use http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
 

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Just been browsing this as I plan to build a stand for my new 30gal (Rekord 120). I'm wondering why nobody has used a diagonal cross beam within the squares/rectangles formed by the beams for extra rigidity?
If you attach plywood to the outside of the stand, those panels act as shear webs, which work much better than diagonal beams. Even houses now rely on plywood or equivalent sheathing instead of the old fashioned diagonal boards that were used for more rigidity.
 

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Fair enough. We still mainly use bricks in the UK though, compared to the houses I saw in Florida, Georgia, Carolina which were predominantly wooden. The only place we have shear webs will be the internal walls with the plasterboard doing that job I guess.

Anyway, we're going off topic here!
 
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