Is this a regulator for a plain co2 bottle or a paintball co2 bottle?
Broken needle valve?
I have to admit that I know very little about the regulator I purchased from aquariumplants.com so, please excuse the simple terms in which I explain things.
Lately, I have to crank the output pressure fairly high (12 - 15 psi) in order to get anything to come out. My needle valve can be loosened and tightened but makes absolutely no difference in the output of CO2.
Can anyone tell me if this is something that can be fixed or will it be necessary to order new parts for the regulator? I believe it's still under warranty but, because I don't really know how to explain what's wrong with it, I don't know how to tell them what needs to be fixed. :icon_conf
Lately, I have to crank the output pressure fairly high (12 - 15 psi) in order to get anything to come out. My needle valve can be loosened and tightened but makes absolutely no difference in the output of CO2.
Can anyone tell me if this is something that can be fixed or will it be necessary to order new parts for the regulator? I believe it's still under warranty but, because I don't really know how to explain what's wrong with it, I don't know how to tell them what needs to be fixed. :icon_conf
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
regular 10lb aluminum CO2 tank
How long have you been running co2 with no problems?
Also, you made sure the regulator is screwed on tightly to the bottle and that the bottle is not empty?
Also, you made sure the regulator is screwed on tightly to the bottle and that the bottle is not empty?
This problem started about 2 months ago and I've been able to ignore it, until now. It's screwed on tight and tank pressure is about 900, which I'm assuming is within acceptable range?
What is the operating pressure gauge reading? When you turn the pressure up on it does it hold the pressure you set it at?
Sorry about all the questions. Just trying to get an ideal where you stand right now.
Brian
Sorry about all the questions. Just trying to get an ideal where you stand right now.
Brian
The top gauge is at 9 psi (I've had to move it as high as 12) and the bottom is at 900 lbs. Pressure does seem to remain constant when I make adjustments with the main valve but the needle valve adjustment has no affect so, I'm having a hard time fine-tuning it to keep a steady bps. Thanks for taking the time to help me figure this out Brian!
Digsy,
I run my working pressure (top guage) at between 20 and 30 psi. 9 psi is on the low side, in my opinion.
Try bumping the working pressure up a bit and see if it helps.
That being said, you should be able to completely cut off all CO2 flow to the aquarium via your needle valve. If you can't do that, then there may be a problem with the valve.
Mike
I run my working pressure (top guage) at between 20 and 30 psi. 9 psi is on the low side, in my opinion.
Try bumping the working pressure up a bit and see if it helps.
That being said, you should be able to completely cut off all CO2 flow to the aquarium via your needle valve. If you can't do that, then there may be a problem with the valve.
Mike
Thanks Mike, it does look like the needle valve is the culprit as closing it completely has no effect on the flow. Time to get a new needle valve!
Hold up!
I just looked into my container of spare parts, and I have a Clippard needle valve.
Now. There is the knob that you adjust, and there is another "collar" like adjuster on the valve. Try spinning the "collar" all the way up towards the adjusting knob. Then close the valve all the way.
Mike
I just looked into my container of spare parts, and I have a Clippard needle valve.
Now. There is the knob that you adjust, and there is another "collar" like adjuster on the valve. Try spinning the "collar" all the way up towards the adjusting knob. Then close the valve all the way.
Mike
Mike, I just tested the collar adjuster and it had no effect. For the heck of it, I just turned the main pressure up as far as it goes (my gauge only goes up 15 psi) and it dumps out a huge amount for about 2 seconds before slowing significantly, as if it can't hold that pressure..I'm even more confused.
So if you close your needle valve completely and turn the operating pressure up between 15-20psi you still get bubbles out of your diffuser?
Correct. :icon_frowSo if you close your needle valve completely and turn the operating pressure up between 15-20psi you still get bubbles out of your diffuser?
If your bubbles are continuing without stopping or changing rate with the needle valve closed it sounds like a problem with the needle valve. It sounds like your regulator is fine because your able to set the pressure and it holds there without changing.
So you have been trying to control the bubble count with the regulator? That sucks.:icon_frow Of course be sure to check for leaks with a soapy water solution before condeming the needle valve. But it does seem like the needle valve is your problem.
Brian
So you have been trying to control the bubble count with the regulator? That sucks.:icon_frow Of course be sure to check for leaks with a soapy water solution before condeming the needle valve. But it does seem like the needle valve is your problem.
Brian
Sounds like the needle valve is stuck open?Mike, I just tested the collar adjuster and it had no effect. For the heck of it, I just turned the main pressure up as far as it goes (my gauge only goes up 15 psi) and it dumps out a huge amount for about 2 seconds before slowing significantly, as if it can't hold that pressure..I'm even more confused.
Digsy, Sorry If you did try this, but it didn't read like it in your reply.Mike, I just tested the collar adjuster and it had no effect.
You have to turn the collar all the way up (away from the body) to the head of the adjuster, then tighten down the adjuster to the body of the needle valve.
I hate to chime in when I know nothing at all about growing plants but I do know this bit of hardware.
Clippard needle valves are NOT designed as shut off valves. Using them as such will almost always damage the valve the first time you tighten it up enough to stop the flow.
I can safely say I have handled more of these valves than anyone else on the forum. So you can believe me or not.
The experience that Digsy is describing is exactly what I would expect from a needle valve with a damaged seat or needle from being tightened down too far.
Clippard needle valves are NOT designed as shut off valves. Using them as such will almost always damage the valve the first time you tighten it up enough to stop the flow.
I can safely say I have handled more of these valves than anyone else on the forum. So you can believe me or not.
The experience that Digsy is describing is exactly what I would expect from a needle valve with a damaged seat or needle from being tightened down too far.
DEAR GOD! Thank you Tazcrash, that's exactly what the problem was! I was moving the collar the wrong way, with no change. This has fixed everything, thank you all so much for troubleshooting this problem!!! :bounce:
But, because I have always thought this needle valve a little finicky, I think I'm going to upgrade.
Once again, thank you ALL for your help!!
But, because I have always thought this needle valve a little finicky, I think I'm going to upgrade.
Once again, thank you ALL for your help!!
Thats great!! I'm glad you got it figured out and don't have to worry about the hassle of having to do an exchange.
Brian
Brian
Me said:There is the knob that you adjust, and there is another "collar" like adjuster on the valve. Try spinning the "collar" all the way up towards the adjusting knob.
Didn't I say that??!!?? :hihi: :hihi: :hihi:Taz said:You have to turn the collar all the way up (away from the body) to the head of the adjuster, then tighten down the adjuster to the body of the needle valve.
Thanks for setting me straight on the Clippard valve, Rex. I have one sitting in a parts box, but never got around to using it. Good thing, huh?!
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
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