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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so ended up doing a purchase that included a 125G AGA with cracked braces.

I'm trying to decide the best option here and would like input.

I know about putting the glass in the middle, not to keen on that. I thought about welded acrylic top/bottom not sure about that. I've thought about ordering a new trim but my LFS is saying 4 to 6 weeks and I've thought about ordering a two piece trim.

None of the rest of the trim is damaged. There was no bowing or leaking at the time the tank was torn down. And this is an older AGA so it has that 2"+ trim on it (twice the depth of my 75).

Here's a picture as it sits in the back of my Durango.
 

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I recently bought a 72 bow that was barely starting to crack in one place. I also replaced trim on another 72 bow in the past. Easiest to fix when it is empty.

For the most recent one, I decided to reinforce before it becomes a problem. I bought plexiglas at the hardware store (not too thick). I cut a piece to fit under the brace from the front to the back and moving out along the front and back trim for a few inches as well - sort of an H-shaped piece. I used epoxy to glue it in place at all the contact points. With that I think I have a much stronger brace. It is more elegant than the glass piece since you can't see the plexi. However, my brace was still intact so I have its strength plus that of the added plexi.

With the brace already broken and the tank empty I would definitely wait and get the replacement trim.

Kevin
 

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There was no bowing or leaking at the time the tank was torn down.

If you measure the distance between the front and back walls now while its empty and again when it's full you'll be able to see how much it bows. 125 gallons is a lot of water to spill when the tank gives out! Go fix the brace before using this tank.....try these guys: http://www.aquariumframeswholesale.com/
 

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I recently bought a 72 bow that was barely starting to crack in one place. I also replaced trim on another 72 bow in the past. Easiest to fix when it is empty.

For the most recent one, I decided to reinforce before it becomes a problem. I bought plexiglas at the hardware store (not too thick). I cut a piece to fit under the brace from the front to the back and moving out along the front and back trim for a few inches as well - sort of an H-shaped piece. I used epoxy to glue it in place at all the contact points. With that I think I have a much stronger brace. It is more elegant than the glass piece since you can't see the plexi. However, my brace was still intact so I have its strength plus that of the added plexi.

With the brace already broken and the tank empty I would definitely wait and get the replacement trim.

Kevin

They do make some wicked epoxy nowadays.
Winds up strong enough to tear steel in some applications.
Steel gives before the join does.
I'm sure that's repairable with fresh bracing material.
 

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Bought a used 90G and about 5 years later the brace cracks right at the point where it forms a T. I cut a small piece of clear acrylic to cover the crack about an inch in all directions. In essence a T made out of clear acrylic. Lowered the water level about 50%, put crazy glue gel on the acrylic T and put it in place. Let it dry for about an hour to be safe and it's been fine for about the last 6 or 7 years. Yeah, it's cracking on the other side of the brace now, but I'll do the same and it should be fine. It had been used as a SW display back in the heyday of MH lights and those lights were famous for making braces brittle.
 

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Bought a used 90G and about 5 years later the brace cracks right at the point where it forms a T. I cut a small piece of clear acrylic to cover the crack about an inch in all directions. In essence a T made out of clear acrylic. Lowered the water level about 50%, put crazy glue gel on the acrylic T and put it in place. Let it dry for about an hour to be safe and it's been fine for about the last 6 or 7 years. Yeah, it's cracking on the other side of the brace now, but I'll do the same and it should be fine. It had been used as a SW display back in the heyday of MH lights and those lights were famous for making braces brittle.
Put me under those old MH lights I would become brittle too! And also rather well done lol.
 

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Yeah, I remember seeing pictures of people putting those 250W MH fixtures inches from the braces and they literally sagged. Even if you elevated them the braces became "suntanned". The top of the trim on this 90G is more than a couple of shades lighter than the sides.
 

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I use canopies on my tanks so some of the repairs that are not that pretty still work well. If you can do a bit of work with wood and simple metal like drilling and bending, there is a simple sure fix. I used it on a 125 with broken brace.
Basic metal mending straps lined on all-thread make a "clamp" at each side and the all thread lets you adjust the pull as needed. Double nuts at each clamp let you make the adjustment solid once done.


A wooden or plastic cover could be fit over the brace to polish the look a bit, but under my canopy I don't see the need. Just don't open the top if you are not working here?
 

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Why are you against the glass brace? It was SOP on Oceanic tanks.
 

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I don't trust any silicone that I've used to give me the structural strength I want. When I tear things down, I find silicone easy to pull apart. When I build greenhouses from salvaged windows, it is easy to pull the glass out of frames as the silicone has very little strength.
Tying glass to plastic that has already proved it is ready to rip, just doesn't give me the confidence I want. Since the plastic has ripped, what keeps it from ripping more?
The former owner had already "fixed" the brace once and I wanted to avoid doing it again.
 

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Ok, so ended up doing a purchase that included a 125G AGA with cracked braces.

I'm trying to decide the best option here and would like input.

I know about putting the glass in the middle, not to keen on that. I thought about welded acrylic top/bottom not sure about that. I've thought about ordering a new trim but my LFS is saying 4 to 6 weeks and I've thought about ordering a two piece trim.

None of the rest of the trim is damaged. There was no bowing or leaking at the time the tank was torn down. And this is an older AGA so it has that 2"+ trim on it (twice the depth of my 75).

Here's a picture as it sits in the back of my Durango.
Hi Instevens,

I would either replace the upper trim or buy a new tank.

I tried a repair using a metal strap to bind the two broken parts of the brace together and it worked fine until it didn't. The brace held but I lost a bottom seam and 45 gallons on the carpet. It is amazing how far 45 gallons of water can spread out and the tank smell in the carpet was an additional bonus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The goal is to sell it because it won't fit in my house anywhere. I could set it up as another tank in the garage, but that takes away some space I want for tank racks.

The reason I don't like the glass is for planting/catching fish purposes. It gets in the way, with braces you have 3 open areas and just small gaps that you can easily reach between. It's harder when that middle space is covered by glass.

If it doesn't sell by next week I will order a frame, sand and buff the glass, and reseal the entire tank. Should make it sell easier.

Thanks for all the ideas. I did think about the repairs, and I don't think they are a bad idea but I had a 40 Breeder get broken 4 years ago and I remember that mess.
 

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I don't trust any silicone that I've used to give me the structural strength I want. When I tear things down, I find silicone easy to pull apart. When I build greenhouses from salvaged windows, it is easy to pull the glass out of frames as the silicone has very little strength.
Tying glass to plastic that has already proved it is ready to rip, just doesn't give me the confidence I want. Since the plastic has ripped, what keeps it from ripping more?
The former owner had already "fixed" the brace once and I wanted to avoid doing it again.
Then you're using the wrong silicones. A silicone caulk has no shear strength. A Dow 795 is used to build tanks and I can attest to its shear strength. It's not bad cost wise at all. Disney uses it on their large tanks. (Plus it sticks to slate which is why I use it to rebuild my Metaframes)

The silicone they use to build windows might be just the caulk to seal. If they use it to adhere it it won't be a high shear silicone. It's not needed there.

If you were to use glass it won't be attached to the plastic frame. It fits between the front and rear panel and is siliconed to those panels not the plastic trim. The trim can actually be trimmed flush and sanded smooth.
 
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Then you're using the wrong silicones. A silicone caulk has no shear strength. A Dow 795 is used to build tanks and I can attest to its shear strength. It's not bad cost wise at all. Disney uses it on their large tanks. (Plus it sticks to slate which is why I use it to rebuild my Metaframes)

The silicone they use to build windows might be just the caulk to seal. If they use it to adhere it it won't be a high shear silicone. It's not needed there.

If you were to use glass it won't be attached to the plastic frame. It fits between the front and rear panel and is siliconed to those panels not the plastic trim. The trim can actually be trimmed flush and sanded smooth.
In a nutshell.....this is 100% correct on all points.
 

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Agreed, that is why I said that none I had used suited what I wanted. I stated that I used what I felt worked for me and why I used it. That does not mean that it is the only way. I expect most people to use their own judgement to decide what works best for them. Unfortunately many are not well adjusted to doing their own thinking and want a fully written and edited rule book. Anybody who has given information on what they do and how they operate, should expect it to fit everybody and I don't try to write the whole book in a way that everybody could, should, or would use it.
I throw out the information that I have and expect others to decide how it works for them. If others want to get a different silicone, that may suit them better but for my use, it would not. I would have to research the silicone, shop for it, or wait for the order as well as buy or cut glass to fit. Meanwhile, I have the parts I used on hand and was able to fix the problem I had with my tank in far less time and with far less trouble. That does NOT mean it will fix ALL tanks for everybody.
If there was meant to be one standard way to do all things, it sure would make life simple. Even checking out with a credit card has multiple ways to do the job!
 
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