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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have my planted 90g with pressurized co2, 3 48 inch T5HO bulbs raised 2.5 inches. I had an atomic inline but really didn't like it. I have my own version of cergis running right now off a power head. The CO2 seems to be completely dissolving. I am running at about 7 bps and there is no change in my drop checker. The plants look good. My only issue is that I have been battling bba. I will try increasing the bubble rate again tomorrow. Does this seem high or are these higher rates normal for "bigger" tanks. Honestly if it wasn't for the bba I would leave it as is but hope to correct the algae problem with the CO2.
 

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Plant Clown
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I'd guess you're still far below the real limit. I had 3-4bps into a Rex for a 30g at 10 psi or so and was in the Mountain Dew range on my dc.

There's a good chance, depending on your pump and reactor size, that you'll run into the problem of CO2 not dissolving quickly enough before you hit the danger zone.

I vote for continuing to increase your flow rate :proud:
 

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Or try adding another reactor. Which is what I did today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)

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Forget your bubble counter. Watch the color of the drop checker. Do this on your day off. What is your current working PSI? Try to increase it by 20% each 2 hour and watch the color of your drop checker. The color is should be somewhat yellowish by mid day, to deal with BBA issues. And fully yellow by the end of the light cycle. Watch your fish as you are doing this.
 

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another reactor in series or do you split the airline between two?

Another reactor. Off another 2217. One for each side - it's a 6 foot tank.

So yeah. Splitting the line. My problem was getting the CO2 ramped up fast enough but then being too high by mid-day. (Almost gassed the Fire eel yesterday!)

Right now running 2-3 bps @ 19PSI into each reactor.

Didn't wanna jack your thread.. But your dispersion might be better with an additional way of introducing CO2. I had problems with my 90 too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Forget your bubble counter. Watch the color of the drop checker. Do this on your day off. What is your current working PSI? Try to increase it by 20% each 2 hour and watch the color of your drop checker. The color is should be somewhat yellowish by mid day, to deal with BBA issues. And fully yellow by the end of the light cycle. Watch your fish as you are doing this.

I am running a atomic co2 regulator V3, so I can't watch PSI. The only thing I can really monitor is bps. Also isn't yellow too much CO2? I thought we we are going for lime green?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
have increased my flow rate a lot can't really count the bubbles too easily. Fish are doing fine. The drop checker goes from a dark blue to a light blue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so here is my situation. My plants seem to be doing great (except for newly added lace plant - time will tell), fish seem great. My drop checker is now from deep blue to light blue. Do I give my tank some time at this rate and see if the bba stops spreading or do I continue to push the CO2?
 

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Carpe Diem
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I'd go to green, slowly, maybe over a couple of days, and always watch the fish.
 

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I have a 90 gal. also w/ 48" 4x54 tek fixture mounted 6" above my tank and I run my co2 through an Aqua medic 1000 using the dual venturi method w/ the bleed vavle ran through the venturi of a mag 7 needle wheel pump. My bps is so fast I can't count.

I was running it 24/7 and just recently put it on a timer to come on 2 hours before lights on and goes off 1 hour before lights off. When ran 24/7 my drop checker was always lime green to yellow and never were the fish showing any signs of distress.Now that it's running on a schedule with the lights it's blue first thing in the morning and lime green by midday. So I have came to the conclusion that even looking at the drop checker is a poor way to gauge how much co2 you have in your tank. It's a lot easier to slowly increase the bps over a few days and watch your plants and fish to determine if your getting the optimal amount of co2 for your tank. Every tank is different from filtration to brand of light fixture, # of plant mass, # of fish, and fert routine.

I have had to add a lot more co2 since adding the Tek light and wet/dry sump. More light means I have to add more co2. Running a wet/dry sump means I have to add more co2. The increased o2 that is in my tank from the sump and the surface movement has gave my that wiggle room when increasing the co2 to make me feel confident I won't gas my fish(which I have before).

How much surface movement do you have?

So to answer your question of if your bps is too much, only you can determine that by slowly increasing it while watching your fish and plants.
 

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Ditch reactor. Use the powerhead in the tank with the co2 shoved in the powerhead intake.

I was running the almost the same setup as you and this worked great for me, I actually used less co2 than with the reactor and the response time was at least 4x shorter with the powerhead in the tank.
 
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