I'm not an expert on deficiencies but it seems odd that you would have any trace deficiency with mts. My guess it that it's a CO2 deficiency. One species of crypt that I have has curled leaves too. It's in a part of the tank that gets more light from outside the tank. The problem improved when I upped the CO2 and circulation. I know its not a trace problem in my case as I dose CSM-B every other day.
Boron deficiency?
I need some help from someone....... My crypt seems to have "twisted" leave, especially the older ones. I did some search and seems like the boron deficiency would cause this. I am currently using mineralized top soil capped with PFS in my 29 gal. How can I solve this problem? will adding "osmocote outdoor and indoor" solve my problem?
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I'm not an expert on deficiencies but it seems odd that you would have any trace deficiency with mts. My guess it that it's a CO2 deficiency. One species of crypt that I have has curled leaves too. It's in a part of the tank that gets more light from outside the tank. The problem improved when I upped the CO2 and circulation. I know its not a trace problem in my case as I dose CSM-B every other day.
Mark, I am not sure either. Is there a way to test what kind of deficiency?
I have T5NO light above my 29 gal and I am doubtful that the light is too strong. But on the other hand, you did have a point it is rare for MTS to have trace deficiency.......... I am lost ......
Seattle,
thanks for the info. That was the same source I saw that lead me to believe that it was boron deficiency......... but I may be wrong.
thanks for the info. That was the same source I saw that lead me to believe that it was boron deficiency......... but I may be wrong.
calcium? i am having the same problem. My plants new growth is stunted and curling, some leafs are very distorted. I just ordered GH booster and plan on dosing with water change. I will post my findings.
This may be true. However if the soil which was used as the source for the mineralized top soil was deficient, the MTS would be also.I'm not an expert on deficiencies but it seems odd that you would have any trace deficiency with mts.
I thought B deficiency showed up more in the new growth. Distorted leaves when it is short supply, no growth if there is more of a deficiency.
Here is an easy fix, but try it in a test tank, not the main tank.
Boron is available in pharmacies, OTC as Boric Acid. Add a few grains (Salt-like crystals) to the water in a small test tank. Boron is toxic in larger quantities, so only add it to the main tank if it really is deficient. Results should show in just a few days or a week, if there is good light. New growth will come out in good shape, once the plant starts taking in the boron, but older leaves will not recover.
Here is an easy fix, but try it in a test tank, not the main tank.
Boron is available in pharmacies, OTC as Boric Acid. Add a few grains (Salt-like crystals) to the water in a small test tank. Boron is toxic in larger quantities, so only add it to the main tank if it really is deficient. Results should show in just a few days or a week, if there is good light. New growth will come out in good shape, once the plant starts taking in the boron, but older leaves will not recover.
I thought B deficiency showed up more in the new growth. Distorted leaves when it is short supply, no growth if there is more of a deficiency.
Here is an easy fix, but try it in a test tank, not the main tank.
Boron is available in pharmacies, OTC as Boric Acid. Add a few grains (Salt-like crystals) to the water in a small test tank. Boron is toxic in larger quantities, so only add it to the main tank if it really is deficient. Results should show in just a few days or a week, if there is good light. New growth will come out in good shape, once the plant starts taking in the boron, but older leaves will not recover.
Thanks Diana for the suggestion. I just went by the pharmacy and seems like they are selling boric acid at a very high price. Like $6 for a small "vitamin" sized bottle, in powedered form, not crystal like. What exactly is boric acid commonly used for when people buy them off the counter from a pharmacy?
I wonder if you can use Borax? You can get it for really cheap in the laundry isle, and it's a great thing to have around the house for cleaning. Here's the ingredient information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borax
Edit: You can use it according to the above link: "In agriculture it can be used as a fertilizer to correct boron-poor soils. However, it is required in small amounts; excess can cause injury to plants."
Edit: You can use it according to the above link: "In agriculture it can be used as a fertilizer to correct boron-poor soils. However, it is required in small amounts; excess can cause injury to plants."
Boric acid is usually used as an ant/cockroach poison, so should be available as a powder from the pharmacy.
Try asking the pharmacist; they may simply keep it behind the counter due to its toxicity.
Try asking the pharmacist; they may simply keep it behind the counter due to its toxicity.
This isn't the question that was asked, but if you use the EI dosing method, and adjust the dosages downward until you begin to see slower plant growth, you never have to concern yourself with specific deficiency symptoms. You can just concentrate on the really difficult nutrient to get right - CO2 - and the most important variable to control - light intensity.
People with contrary opinions can make a good case, but you have a hard time denying that the above is a true statement.
People with contrary opinions can make a good case, but you have a hard time denying that the above is a true statement.
But why do EI if you are doing an MTS tank? Isn't that the point?
If you dose the micro +B, you should be fine with Boron. If you have MTS, you should be fine as well.
Try adding Ca & Mg. It should work.
Oh, pictures of your plant should help a lot.
Try adding Ca & Mg. It should work.
Oh, pictures of your plant should help a lot.
My understanding is that if you dose the water column that the NKP/micros in the mts will last longer. Eventually the nutrients in mts will be used up otherwise. The nice thing about such a set up is for instance you went on a vacation for a week or even two you could do so without worrying about dosing your tank or trusting a friend or relative to do it.But why do EI if you are doing an MTS tank? Isn't that the point?
Yeah, but I've heard of mts setups lasting years without dosing or very minimal. I have yet to dose my tank and its been 1.5 years. If I would suggest dosing, it wouldn't be ei but perhaps root tablets or very liitle k and trace.
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Thanks sewingalot for the suggestion.I wonder if you can use Borax? You can get it for really cheap in the laundry isle, and it's a great thing to have around the house for cleaning. Here's the ingredient information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borax
Edit: You can use it according to the above link: "In agriculture it can be used as a fertilizer to correct boron-poor soils. However, it is required in small amounts; excess can cause injury to plants."
Can this be used directly for our application? I knew that boric acid was the main ingredient, but I thought that there were other ingredients that comes with it.Boric acid is usually used as an ant/cockroach poison, so should be available as a powder from the pharmacy.
Try asking the pharmacist; they may simply keep it behind the counter due to its toxicity.
Guru Hoppy, thanks for your comment. Although it wasn't explicit, but I understand what you're trying to get at.... "process of elimination". That is to say that if I follow the EI dosing, and the problem still exist, then the problem narrows down to CO2 or light. If the problem is gone, then adjust the dosages downward until you begin to see slower plant growth. Play around with the other nutrients to figure out the culprit. I am very tempted to take this approach(just to know the answer), but at this moment, I lack the time and funds.This isn't the question that was asked, but if you use the EI dosing method, and adjust the dosages downward until you begin to see slower plant growth, you never have to concern yourself with specific deficiency symptoms. You can just concentrate on the really difficult nutrient to get right - CO2 - and the most important variable to control - light intensity.
People with contrary opinions can make a good case, but you have a hard time denying that the above is a true statement.
That was my exact intention when I started, but came upon this stumbling block recently. That's a bummer.......But why do EI if you are doing an MTS tank? Isn't that the point?
I will try to get a pic of the plant for clarification. In addition to my poor photography skills, my camera is very crappy and would not focus well..... I will try to get some good pics.If you dose the micro +B, you should be fine with Boron. If you have MTS, you should be fine as well.
Try adding Ca & Mg. It should work.
Oh, pictures of your plant should help a lot.
Maybe, I wasn't in the best of luck when I took my topsoil home. I might have gotten a batch which was boron deficient to begin with ...... But, I will not deny that MTS is a very low cost and maintenance approach for substrate.Yeah, but I've heard of mts setups lasting years without dosing or very minimal. I have yet to dose my tank and its been 1.5 years. If I would suggest dosing, it wouldn't be ei but perhaps root tablets or very liitle k and trace.
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Sewingalot, I was also thinking about dosing with "osmocote plus" which supposely contain most of the micros... what do you all think?
I think you're making life too complicated for yourself. Personally I'd just give the crypt a root tab, leave it alone, and see what happens.
I guess you're right laura. I will just go with some kind od fertilizer,most probably osmocote plus, and see what happens.
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