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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this S$%% been pissing me off since i setup my new tank, it will not go away, doesn't matter what i dose. some sources says to dose more nitrate and some says its excess Nitrate and Phosphate that causes it. well in both cases blue green algae did not give up, it continue to thrive and taking over everything, i have tried reducing and increasing the nitrate and no results. last thing i can think of is phosphate which could be excess because this is only one month old ADA aqua soil setup and i think soil still might be releasing some nutrients to the water (mostly phosphate).

am going to perform big water changes to see if that will help and this time not dose any Phosphate, normally i dose 1ppm Phosphate 3x week.

i know for sure its not co2 related issue, am not newbie and i know what am doing. if you have suggestion please do share.
 

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How much flow do you have? A lack of
Flow will cause bga problems.

Here's what I do
1. Dose maracyn
2. Black out the tank while dosing the maracyn
3. Keep nitrates around 10-20 at all times.
4.Make sure you have at Least 5x the flow rate of your tank sized(personally I have 10x but that is not an option for everyone) so if you
Have a 10g tank you want 50gallons per an hour(unless your me then you have 100gph)
5. At the end of this do a large wc an clean out your filter.

If you follow these steps I guarantee your bga will go away. It always works for me.
 

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I had a little bit of BGA after I filled up my DSM. After I started my EI regimen, the nitrates alone made it disappear. I didn't have to dose erythromycin or do a blackout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How much flow do you have? A lack of
Flow will cause bga problems.

Here's what I do
1. Dose maracyn
2. Black out the tank while dosing the maracyn
3. Keep nitrates around 10-20 at all times.
4.Make sure you have at Least 5x the flow rate of your tank sized(personally I have 10x but that is not an option for everyone) so if you
Have a 10g tank you want 50gallons per an hour(unless your me then you have 100gph)
5. At the end of this do a large wc an clean out your filter.

If you follow these steps I guarantee your bga will go away. It always works for me.

maracyn use to work, but it doesnt work for me anymore, black out doesn't work either. flow is good IMO, 10times the flow. like i said keeping the nitrate high doesn't work either. i was dosing EI and my own fert, in both cases cynobacteria is still there. i will try to increase the flow further, but i don't think its going to help either.
 

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Common causes I've heard of are:

*High organics.
*Poor Water Circulation
*Old Light tubes
*Inadequate fertilization, which could be due to the new substrate like you said.

How to remove or suggestions:

*3-5 day blackout
*Fast growing stem plants to outcompete for nutrients
*maintain proper nutrients; which you do
*Excel or Hydrogen Peroxcide spot treatment, wait 30 minutes and remove bacteria
*Erythromycin or Maracyn as the last resort

Since you tried all that, I'm so sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
at this point, turn off filter. spray it will h202. 1ml per gallon of tank volume
let sit for 5-10 minutes
i have done this in the past, but its an temporally solution, it will kill it but it will return again within days. plus this method also killed some plants when i tried it, unless i did something wrong when dosing the H2O2.
 

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don't dose the tank, spray the cyano

shoudn't kill any plants.. there are a few sensitive plants that it can hurt some leaves but wont kill the whole plant

cyano is 99.9% of the time related to oxygen levels. i think ur pretty good about having decent agitation so i won't guess that but it is an anaerobic bacteria. doesn't do well with much oxygen
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
don't dose the tank, spray the cyano

shoudn't kill any plants.. there are a few sensitive plants that it can hurt some leaves but wont kill the whole plant

cyano is 99.9% of the time related to oxygen levels. i think ur pretty good about having decent agitation so i won't guess that but it is an anaerobic bacteria. doesn't do well with much oxygen
ok i guess i will try the H2O2.

maybe add an air stone when lights goes out. i do dose allot of co2 during the day, everything pearls within couple of minutes including the cyno.
 

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Where, specifically is the BGA? Crowns of the vegetative cones, apical meristems? Or on the sediment, below the gravel line or?

I have BGA below the gravel line closest to the window in many tank,s but it's well behaved and stays there. I scrape it every so often, maybe once a month, but it does not pester me, nor has for years.

So it's there, but does not pose any bloom issues.

You might deep gravel vac say 20% of the sediment each 3-4 days and replant the stems etc back after. This will clean the tank up nicely, and give you a chance to clean the filter, add purigen etc or whatever else you'd like to try.

If EM is not able to handle it post recovery/post treatment, then clean the tank good and dose well, check CO2 again. Black out works for getting rid of what is there, but only if the root issue is addresses while you do the blackout.

It's annoying, but is the easiest pest to get rid of and keep away.
Not that helps you any here:)

A good cleaning of the sediment and filter, trim, preening etc, every few months, maybe once 6-12 month cycles, not a bad idea. I do this with the ADA soils, I remove the dust/fines and leave the larger grains with the gravel vac.

O2 is easily able to move through the sediment and plant roots have access to it, if the plants are not piping enough down into the sediment(so the CO2 thing plays a role there likely also since good CO2 drives plant growth much more than any nutrient and more growth= more O2 to the sediment)

I do not think dosing is the issue nor urea. As long as the NO3 is say 5-10ppm or more, you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Where, specifically is the BGA? Crowns of the vegetative cones, apical meristems? Or on the sediment, below the gravel line or?

I have BGA below the gravel line closest to the window in many tank,s but it's well behaved and stays there. I scrape it every so often, maybe once a month, but it does not pester me, nor has for years.

So it's there, but does not pose any bloom issues.

You might deep gravel vac say 20% of the sediment each 3-4 days and replant the stems etc back after. This will clean the tank up nicely, and give you a chance to clean the filter, add purigen etc or whatever else you'd like to try.

If EM is not able to handle it post recovery/post treatment, then clean the tank good and dose well, check CO2 again. Black out works for getting rid of what is there, but only if the root issue is addresses while you do the blackout.

It's annoying, but is the easiest pest to get rid of and keep away.
Not that helps you any here:)

A good cleaning of the sediment and filter, trim, preening etc, every few months, maybe once 6-12 month cycles, not a bad idea. I do this with the ADA soils, I remove the dust/fines and leave the larger grains with the gravel vac.

O2 is easily able to move through the sediment and plant roots have access to it, if the plants are not piping enough down into the sediment(so the CO2 thing plays a role there likely also since good CO2 drives plant growth much more than any nutrient and more growth= more O2 to the sediment)

I do not think dosing is the issue nor urea. As long as the NO3 is say 5-10ppm or more, you should be fine.

looks like i got work to do for this weekend. thanks Tom
i was dosing 1/2tsp of KNO3 3x week on this 48g tank, so i don't think increasing the nitrate really fixed anything here. even with my Fert i was adding 1ppm of Urea and 2.5ppm of Nitrate everyday, this did not help either. the point is, it seems to thrive in both cases, low or high nitrate.

its is everywhere now, on Crowns of the vegetative cones, apical meristems and the sediment, but it started on sediment first.
 

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Yes, this has nothing to do with KNO3 dosing as suspected.

Once established, like many algae/cyano's, it's tough to get rid of, high or low nutrients, but that bloom signal.... sure makes a mess. The signal could be multiple things.

As is often the case for gardeners and aquatic gardeners, it all comes back to the basics and elbow grease, getting in there, cleaning everything to the bone and redoing stuff.
I don't really mind that, but if the algae comes right back, then......you can go nuts quick.

Remove any and all leaves, wipe glass, spot clean or kill any algae outbreaks asap, clean filters often, add lots of shrimp and algae eaters, feed fish well(urea sort of does the same thing), good O2, current and CO2, light adjustment, purigen, etc.
Stay on top of it.

Sure, we have tanks or know someone who does very little to their tanks and it seems to work really well........but those are the exceptions. And they work generally for the same reasons, the light is less than they think etc...often easier species are chosen, etc.
Yep, you got some cleaning to do. Tank will look better and it'll give you a chance to redo things that may have been pestering you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
erythromycin should be here tomorrow, its a 250mg 30 of them, so how do i dose the correct amount before i waste it? its going to be treating 48g ADA 90p tank. please suggest how the treatment should be and how much erythromycin should i dose. thanks
 
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