Has anyone used one of the big box store unfinished sink base cabinets for a stand? I'm setting up a 50g and am thinking about using one. Would probably reinforce with an inner frame of some sort.
Thinking along those same lines, a combo of screws and adhesives should shore it up pretty good. It's a balmy 27 degrees today so going to go out in the garage and take a good look at it.Winter in Ohio never got too warm for me, either!
You can make the cabinet work, though. But rather than mechanical like nails, screws, I like glue and clamping with only a few fasteners. Fewer holes to patch and hide on the outside. There are some really good wood glues that cure pretty fast and will hold as much as the wood fibers do. In your case, I might look at some of the construction adhesives in a tube that are used for winter work. Just don't use too much so that the clamping makes it run out all over?
I like using a full length piece of wood like a 1X2 for adding a top if the top is thick enough to hold a screw well. With 1X glued to the sides, top put on and glued, I add just one or two screws for confidence that it will stay forever. Up from the bottom to be out of sight. The 1X will help add strength to the sides also. Sometimes that top rim board looks like a cat might break it! Sometimes the old houses I've remodeled were so crooked that cabinets would never fit the walls but there are lots of ways to cheat them to looking right and holding up long term.
But I'm NOT just assembling, I'm actually putting in more pieces and know how to build the frame to support the weight, so no, not just an Ikea affect.This is called the Ikea effect, believing something is better, because you had a hand in the construction.
Thank you for those tips!Yeah the Polyshades are tough to use. Especially the darker colors. I've got a few cans I won't use. Especially that Bombay Mahogany.
Gel stains are easier than the regular stains to control.
Pine, no matter what you use, will blotch. A sanding sealer, thinned shellac, or better yet a wood conditioner need to be used to prevent it. Cherry, a hardwood is another notorious for blotching.
One thing you might want to do is stain the inside of the doors with the same stuff you used on the outside.
Doing both sides will mitigate some of its tendencies to warp. Moisture can't get into the front as easy as the back right now. That can make it want to warp. Sealing both sides gives a better shot at not warping.
For future projects you may want to think more glue less screw(s). The glues are stronger than the wood itself.