[Steelwolve]

I need to reduce the flow rate on my new Sun Sun 565Gph filter to increase contact time with the built in 9W UV sterilizer. Im thinking from the chart I just read I should aim for about 125GPH for killing green water. Now the ? is how? It came with 4 spray bar sections if I reduce that to 1 would I be effectively quartering the GPH? Or would this create backpressure and kill my motor? What about adding something in the media chamber like stuffing it full of filter floss, or reducing the size of the intake strainer? Im guessing that it doesnt have to be too exact but apparently 565gph is wayyy to high. Also when I go to replace the bulb can I get a higher wattage or do they have different pins/ballast. Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[rrastro]

I would be amazed if the output is anywhere near what the advertised flow rate is. That flow rate, if it was ever accurate, was tested from just outside the output nozzle with absolutely nothing inside of the media chambers of the filter itself. With full media chambers you're probably looking at half that gph straight out of the unit. Add who knows how many feet of additional tubing with lift and it decreases even more substantially. The length of the spraybar is going to have very little overall effect on the final flow rate.
Test your flow rate by filling a 5 gal bucket (or 2 gal, whatever) from the same height that your spray bar will be at and leave on the u-bend attachment that connects to the spray bar. This will give you a very rough approximation of what your actual flow rate will be.

 

[houseofcards]

Yes, it wouldn't be 565, but still for a 9W you probably have to get that flow down to 120-150 for it to be effective. That's about a 3/4 reduction in flow.

 

[HD Blazingwolf]

put a ball valve on the outflow

or if ur trying to get rid of green water.. increase beneficial bacteria activity by increasing oxygen levels via airstone/ surface agitation and perform multiple water changes. one 50% per day over the next week

green water is almost entirely due to excess ammonia and light.. it CANNOT reproduce without ammonia so having a strong bio filter and or healthy plants prevents it pretty easy

 

[kevmo911]

Unfortunately, the UV in that SunSun is close to garbage.

Fortunately, that means you don't have to worry about it past the first 6 months of ownership or so. Probably less.

I'd recommend getting a low-power pump and tubing, and adding a bare-bones inline UV to it.

I know it's something you don't want to hear, but the "B" SunSun/Aquatop/Grech/whatever canister (they're all identical, just rebranded) are crap when it comes to the UV light. The most financially efficient option, once it fails (which won't take long) is to just use it as an "A" model (non-UV) and add a UV to another line if you decide you really need it.

You bought the highest-flow model (304/404)for a reason - its flow. Don't compromise it - get another pump for the accessories (UV, heater, CO2 injection). I wouldn't recommend this for the higher-quality (a.k.a. higher-price) cans, but it's just not worth it for the cheapo brand cans. I have a 302, and *love* it, so please don't assume I'm a SunSun hater. I just recognize its deficiencies.

 

[OVT]

Um, you can do WCs every hour for days on and it will not help with the green algae bloom. Depending on your tap water, it can actually make it worse.

For the long term solution make sure that no/minimal sunlight hits your tank. and that the tank has some fast growing plants.

For the short term solution a 72-hour 100% blackout will fix the problem as will the UV. As HD Blazingwolf said, a ball valve on the outflow will work just fine for reducing the flow. The reduced flow will not 'kill my motor" as there is no motor in your filter: it has a mag drive which is an electromagnetic field spinning your metal-jacketed impeller. The impeller is the only moving part in your filter.

 

[Steelwolve]

I figured that out after 2 months of water changes not helping, also tried blackout for 3 days, still there, and algae fix for 3 doses, No sunlight on tanks cut back light to 2 32wt8s, decreased photo period, tank is ran at over 3300%filter capacity according to aqadvisor, and only has 2 fish and I do 50% water change (using prime) weekly with gravel vac once a month, I dont have a test kit yet but every time I have my water tested on this tank it shows 0 ammonia. Has been running for 2 years total and 5 months now after a major rescape/substrate washing and 1st planting. (may have had to re cycle but I never noticed besides a diatom outbreak) So I tried all of my cheap options first then sprang for the $100 UV filter and I guess I got hosed again!:icon_roll

Please understand this is not due to tank neglect I have been working my butt off on these tanks and just cant freaking win. Ive had fish tanks since I was a 15 and at now at 33 decided to get into plants. So far it has been nothing but a headache to me. Like I said I never owned a test kit, I had never found a real need, Just do your water changes and dont worry about it. Im begining to see that planted tanks require ALOT more care, not with the water changes, thats easy for me I have a nice plumbing rig, but the constant Money Pit effect is Killing me. I told my wife in Nov that I was done with this thing, and would quit spending so much on it. Since then I have bought another new light that is currently not in use, beacuse first I was told I needed more light, then told I had too much:icon_roll A CO2 rig because I had to much light:icon_roll then I got hit with this green water and was told that I had to get a UV sterilizer. Now I find that I need another one.:icon_roll Dont get me wrong I do really appreciate all the help and suggestions I have been given and know they were probally the right advise with only good intentions but Im so frustrated at what this thing is costing! ARG! Ive spent over 800$ since I started planting and I already owned the tank and 1 filter. The funny thing is I bought the cheap stuff, Sun suns, red sea CO2, PFS substrate, Home Depot Diamond plate lights. Sheseh you guys with the ADA Setups must be ballin!
Sorry to rant:icon_redf and I will still try to reduce the flow on the can filter for now and hope I can win this battle! Im not throwing in the towel yet, got too much invested at this point!

 

[houseofcards]

I hear ya. I know it could be frustrating. When I first started out I had a bad case of green water. Was pulling my hair out, even tried the Willow Branch Method (suppose to suck up the organics in large volume) I eventually got a UV and the water got so freakin clear I had to look hard to make sure their was water in the tank even when looking thru the side. I ended up keeping the UV on the tank for 3 years 24/7. Anyway I would just try to reduce the flow or (I know more spending) get a separate UV with a Powerhead and see what it does. You can always sell some of the equipment you don't need right here on the forum.

 

[mott]

Never mind, didn't read the whole thread

 

[houseofcards]

Never mind, didn't read the whole thread

LOL at your reason for edit. I think we all do that from time to time.

 

[Steelwolve]

I would be amazed if the output is anywhere near what the advertised flow rate is. That flow rate, if it was ever accurate, was tested from just outside the output nozzle with absolutely nothing inside of the media chambers of the filter itself. With full media chambers you're probably looking at half that gph straight out of the unit. Add who knows how many feet of additional tubing with lift and it decreases even more substantially. The length of the spraybar is going to have very little overall effect on the final flow rate.
Test your flow rate by filling a 5 gal bucket (or 2 gal, whatever) from the same height that your spray bar will be at and leave on the u-bend attachment that connects to the spray bar. This will give you a very rough approximation of what your actual flow rate will be.

Thank you for this info I did in fact test. I found that it took 70 seconds to fill a 5 g bucket that came out to 257GPH less than half of the advertised flow rate and thats with no media besides the thin pads in it. I aslo found while reading the manual (poorly translated leaflet) that the advertised flow rate is different than what it says in the manual it says. It says 528GPH Either way I had no Idea that the flow would be so OFF. Thanks for the enlightenment! Do better qaulity filters (Eheim, Fluval) get closer to their advertised rates or is this a common practice through out the industry?

Unfortunately, the UV in that SunSun is close to garbage.

Fortunately, that means you don't have to worry about it past the first 6 months of ownership or so. Probably less.

I'd recommend getting a low-power pump and tubing, and adding a bare-bones inline UV to it.

I know it's something you don't want to hear, but the "B" SunSun/Aquatop/Grech/whatever canister (they're all identical, just rebranded) are crap when it comes to the UV light. The most financially efficient option, once it fails (which won't take long) is to just use it as an "A" model (non-UV) and add a UV to another line if you decide you really need it.

You bought the highest-flow model (304/404)for a reason - its flow. Don't compromise it - get another pump for the accessories (UV, heater, CO2 injection). I wouldn't recommend this for the higher-quality (a.k.a. higher-price) cans, but it's just not worth it for the cheapo brand cans. I have a 302, and *love* it, so please don't assume I'm a SunSun hater. I just recognize its deficiencies.

Kevmo thanks for your input also, what seems to fail on the UV side of things? Is it a Cheap bulb? Leaking seal? There isnt a balast right? Im used to having cheap stuff so I am very careful with it and find that the cheap stuff will work if you baby it a little. Im an appliance tech and have found that to be true in my industry at least. People buy a cheap machine they treat it like crap, it breaks, they buy a expensive machine treat it like crap, it breaks a year later.(and cost more to fix) Then you see the people with 30+ year old cheap washers, that just need a new belt, becuase they babied it. If you are refering to the way the water flows by the bulb as its weak point I can see that being an issue, Larger area inside the can than say an inline. Not saying your wrong about this, as I just got this unit, but I havent had a lick of trouble out of my smaller sun sun for about a year now. I am gonna try to reduce the flow short term to try to get the tank good and clear and then kick it back up. Again thanks Kevmo!

I was reading the info at Drs fosters and dah dah dah, and found that the inline that is recomended for my tank is a 9W at 100-200GPH so If I have dialed in the Sun sun right I should see clear water soon I hope.

Side note since my last water change on Sunday the water has not "green"ed up at all but is just not clear yet. Before the UV was added it would be pea soup green by tuesday night. So it is doing something!

 

[1aqumfish]

Just put a Y in-line, put a valve on the input to the uv line and return both lines to the tank. Won't reduce your flow and than you can balance the flow through the uv.

 

[rrastro]

Thank you for this info I did in fact test. I found that it took 70 seconds to fill a 5 g bucket that came out to 257GPH less than half of the advertised flow rate and thats with no media besides the thin pads in it. I aslo found while reading the manual (poorly translated leaflet) that the advertised flow rate is different than what it says in the manual it says. It says 528GPH Either way I had no Idea that the flow would be so OFF. Thanks for the enlightenment! Do better qaulity filters (Eheim, Fluval) get closer to their advertised rates or is this a common practice through out the industry?

I do not know what common practice through this industry is and my sunsun is the first canister filter I've owned. What I do know is the relationship between advertised flow rates of any kind and reality. Take fans as an example. Fans are advertised with alleged CFM that bears no relationship to their actual CFM, especially after you hook them up to ducting with turns and splits and filters. Higher quality fans tend to have more realistic numbers for their measured CFM so it is possible that higher quality filters would follow suit.